Steering wheel removal

[bahbzilla]

I have a TR8/Spider steering wheel on my TR7, and I was going to swap the original back in to see how I like the slightly larger diameter. I pulled off the center cap, grabbed a steering wheel puller... and couldn't figure out what the heck to do next. I have pulled steering wheels on modern cars with no problem. There must be some trick to this.
[V]

Bob
1980 TR7 DHC

[Odd]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bahbzilla</i>

... There must be some trick to this. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yes it is.
You back the nut out until there is roughly one and a half turn left until it is fully off
- then you position yourself firmly in the drivers seat and give the wheel a quick and herculean pull
(using both hands!). It will unsettle and hit the nut - and the nut will save your face from getting
the wheel deeply imbedded... Works all the time. ISTR the nut is 27mmAF...

<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">

[bahbzilla]

Thanks Odd... I will give old fashioned muscle power a try.

Bob
1980 TR7 DHC

[Hasbeen]

Bob, if you prove to be not herculean enough there is a little trick you can use.

Undo the nut as mentioned by Odd, but unscrew it until it is exactly flush with the end of the thread of the column. This is to protect the nut & shaft threads from the hammer, or drift.

What hammer you say? Well if you get another to apply that upward pull on the wheel, then hit the top end of the shaft, [& nut of course], with a hammer direct, or with a brass drift on the shaft/nut, just moderately lightly, the shock will unseat the wheel, & it will come loose.

With just a little experience, I find I can apply enough upwards pressure to the underside of the wheel with my legs, while sitting in the seat.

Hasbeen