Broken light switch...

[ColoradoTR8]

On the way into work this morning I noticed that my high beam indicator kept flashing on and off. My headlights were not on though. My turn signal/dip/horn switch had broken. For those that don't know, and I'm not sure that the same things happens on the European models with the "flash to pass" feature that US cars don't have, but when the switch breaks as it did on my car today, the high beams will come on. Even if the main lighting switch is off. Looks something like this.


When this photo was taken the light switch was off, the car is off and the key is even out of the ignition. To turn the lights off and not affect anything else, I simply unplugged the switch underneath the dash.

<b><i>Shawn</i></b>

[silverseven]

sure would be handy for finding stuff when you drop a bolt or wrench in the engine compartment ......

Ron.

[FI Spyder]

When I got my car the hi/low beam switch was broken inside (wouldn't detent/switch but lights didn't stay on), I was also having signal light problems on the other side so I replaced the whole unit with a new one. Didn't solve the signal light problem as that was because of the green grunge in the main light switch.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[trekcarbonboy]

Mine recently broke also. I took apart the highbeam switch and removed the broken piece of plastic so now they don't stay on but they are useable. I did try to superglue it back together but that didn't work. If I want to use the highbeams I have to hold the switch arm down but this is just untill I replace the switch. I may just make a mold and create a resin copy of the broken piece. Much easier to just buy a new switch but I like to learn how to do new things.
If you take the switch apart just pay attention to where the springs and contacts go.

Craig

[ColoradoTR8]

Just buying the new switch is the path that I took, I should have it tomorrow. I found an early style unit that matches up with my early production TR8. In the mean time, I pulled the high beam wire from the connector and insulated it. I no longer have high beams, but I rarely use them anyway. So I doubt I'll miss them before I replace the switch.

I use my car daily and I'm not going to be removing the steering wheel to do any surgery on the switch until the replacement gets here.

<b><i>Shawn</i></b>

[Hasbeen]

The last time I bought a new light switch, it lasted about 25 minutes. Obviously the system was drawing excessive power, & getting hot, but it had been cleaned with in an inch of it's life.

The white molded plastic pins, that actuate the switch are, I believe, made from an inferior grade of plastic, for the job. As one of these switches, in Oz, costs over A$95.00, I made & fitted new pins of brass.

Took the car to my friendly local auto electrician, & had everything relayed.

That was over 2 years ago, & no trouble since.

Hasbeen

[ColoradoTR8]

This switch wsan't the master light switch, but the turn signal/dip/horn switch on the left hand side of the steering column. The power for the high beams do run through that switch but I have also relayed the lights on my car. It was the 30 year old brittle plastic that broke. The stalk swings freely fore & aft and activates the main beams whenever it feels like regardless if the master light switch is on or not.

<b><i>Shawn</i></b>