Hey i'm 18 im very tempted to get a TR7

[paul w]

Sounds like its worth a go with mot at 850 notes.The bubbling could be a reaction in the paint,but its probably good old rust!Remember that any problems you encounter,we have all been through,and will give you all the answers.

See ya. Paul

[bmcecosse]

Your insurance proposal would not be legal - the Police are really tightening up on this now - with serious consequences for anyone caught. You must be completely honest about who will be driving the car. The 'drive any car' clause has been/is being removed from most policies - and is ONLY designed/intended for emergencies.
Otherwise - the car sounds very good - i would say well worth the money suggested. Just make sure it comes with a brand new MOT.

[Orophin]

Hey they let me drive across the country in a 2.3 merc on holiday, i'm sure they won't find me taking out the tr7 every now and again a problem.

Anyway, i have bought it now...and it's siting in the drive. When I attempt to drive fast, she really struggles to accelerate. Pops and misses and does not drive well. But it's fine on idle. Maybe reving a little too high. Brakes are not brillient are they??? Handbrake barely holds it!

Overall the car is nearly mint and I love it already. A fun little project, looks like a small green Ferrari gone wrong! But so awesome. Eventually I want to V8 it, but for this summer, I wish to better the brakes, and tune the engine and make the car look mint.

Oh yeah and the fuel pump doesn't work. Well, it did, but stopped working then worked again and now it's stopped and ain't worked since.

I'll get some pics up if I can! Thank you everyone. [;)]

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

The ill running sounds like a fuel starvation problem You can mount an electric pump at the rear next to the fuel tank, but be sure of a couple of things.

1. Make sure you get a pump that only puts out a maximum of 3 pounds of pressure.
2. Rubber mount the pump to cut down on noise.
3. Put a big fuel filter between the tank and the pump. (Drain the tank if possible and start with fresh fuel!)
4. Wire a switch into the power line, so that if you are working on car with the power on or you are parking the car at a place that is not trustworthy, you can switch off the pump.

Rear Brakes: Here is a walk through on replacing the rear brakes. Click on the photos to enlarge them or play the slide show. The link: [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Rear%20Brakes.html"]Rear brake installation[/url]

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

By the way, if the engine is tuned properly, it does have enough power to scoot you all over town. I drive mine to work every day at 70 MPH (3000rpms), ok, sometimes 80 if I am passing a semi (lorry). Even in 5th gear, a little nudge on the gas and you are zooming along.

It will have more than enough power for an 18 year old!

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[Orophin]

Did I say fuel pump??? Dang I meant fuel gage. You sure it's a fuel stavation problem? I checked the distributer and it's really bad. The points are nearly black, and the things you put the leads into are coated on oxide. That must be the problem, cause i'm surprised it even starts now! Pics soon...but it's raining right now. I hate this weather. How do you put pics on?

[bmcecosse]

Fuel gauge will likely just be dirty contacts at the tank. The handbrake is normally very powerful - so something wrong if it's not working - start by checking/greasing all the linkages - if they are ok then you need to go inside the drums. Footbrake should also be fine - but may be needing the discs cleaned/calipers freeing off and new pads. Greenstuff pads are worth getting. If the pedal is 'heavy' then maybe the servo is not working properly - check the vacuum pipe to the servo. Poor running - could be dizzy/blocked air filters (take them out to see if it goes better) - or just needing the carbs setting up properly. Check the carb pistons rise and fall freely - and put some 3 in 1 oil in the little damper chambers.

[John Clancy]

Bad running on the TR7 is generally down to the distributor. Generally the points are the cause. If you put a new set in make sure you get the gap spot on as this makes a significant difference. Dwell angle is 39 degrees or 43.33% if I remember correctly.

Jclay was assuming you had a faulty fuel pump when diagnosing the cause as being fuel starvation which is exactly what I thought too until you said it was the fuel gauge and not the pump.

The brakes sound like they're in need of some work so I would recommend tending to those first.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Beans]

As for the brakes, the rear cylinders have a tendency to seize.
Can be checked when you remove the drums.

Front brakes aren't great by design. But if you behave a bit on the road [;)] and with decent pads they should be adequate to give you time to accustom to the car. But do check and clean them also.

Oh and bear in mind that the standard front pads are the same as those of the later Mini's (from somewhere in the 80's on). Might be much cheaper ...


<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

[url="http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3738"]Link to posting Pictures.[/url]

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[Wayne S]

Hi Orophin,

Im 23, 6 ft 4 and use my TR7 DHC everday. Its my only car. My advice would be to put a new dizzy cap and rotor arm on straight away, I change mine regulary on daily use to keep her running smooth. Also I'd ditch your spark plugs and leads and get a nice fresh set in there properly gapped up.If the car's been in storage Id not even quibble over these relatively cheap maintainence items.Its no doubt gagging for an oil change too.
Also, if your going to be using the car regularly id throw out the points and replace with optronic ignition from suppliers like Rimmers or S & S. Its easy to fit, then all you have to do is time the car on the strobe (another thing to consider checking) and then relax and get on with driving it.

Its good news to have another young TR owner on board. We have a cool group of young TR / Triumph enthusiasts across the TR Register and Drivers Clubs and we regulary meet up to enjoy our cars. PM me with your contact details and I'll make sure your kept in the loop about run outs, events etc.

As for v8 engines? Well fuel price is a killer now and it would involve a lot of expensive/time consuming work most likely. Better to enjoy driving the car surely? You'd be amazed at what the standard lump can achieve if you just get it breathing right. Mine has a stainless exhaust, extractor manifold and high lift cam. The cylinder head and inlet manifolds are both polished and ported also. Whip off the air box and replace with ram pipes under ITG or K&N filters and richer BAL needles and you'll get bags of fun without having to throw a thirsty V8 in there. Lower it, put on alloys and polybush it to ad some extra handling and bling....... LOL

Purple 2.0 Litre DHC Grinnal

[Orophin]

Thanks dude! For this summer, I'll defiantly get electric ignition. Oil change, oil filter change, a new K+N filter because something on the air box looks like it has something missing... theres are two open ends... lol New spark plugs and HT leads, a brake check.

I want to take it to the classic car show too. So the engine has to be polished or painted, needs to look sweet! Oh yeah, a new thought. I'm tempted to get the standard engine bored out. Anybody done this?? What else can you modify to these engines?

And i want a new steering wheel, and gear knob. I don't like the standard ones.

[paul w]

Blimey!Your gonna be busy over the winter with that shopping list.The electronic ignition will give you a few horses with new plugs and h t leads if you get timing set up.I'm guessing the air filter housing is missing two plastic pipes that take in air to o/s of radiator.If you fit K&N's in its place you may need to use different needles in the S U 's to get the most out of it.John Clancy Knows all about tuning the 'slant four'.There ar'nt many options,but i recently refurbed the head on mine and took the oppertunity to get the head lightly polished and ported at the shop where it was skimmed.This actually makes the wedge feel a bit more alive although it sounds a little harsh at high revs.I did'nt break the bank to do all this,having done much of the work myself.If you want bigger performance,you spend bigger amounts of the folding stuff!Oh,dont forget to upgrade those brakes if your determined to release those extra horses!

See ya. Paul

[Orophin]

I've looked on the S+S webpage and a stage 2 tuning reconditioned head is £450 + £75 postage. And i'm tempted to get the 40's or 45's weber carbs they have on there. What would you suggest? I'm very new to this whole engine tuning thing.

[ngtf]

You would need to get a decent extractor exhaust manifold (S&S) as well but more importantly, get those brakes uprated first!!

Gary

Eeyore rides again !!

EOR14W - Persian Aqua 2L Dhc, Now rebuilt and looking lovely - Sprint engine being prepared!