Is my electric fan setting correct?

[busheytrader]

Back in the day my 2.0L engine on a viscous fan would register just under a quarter on the temp gauge. As per S&S that was spot on.

The only time it went over the mark was when the water pump leaked



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

[UKPhilTR7]

Well there is some good news. Sunday I went to supercheap and get one of their remote thermometers. What a great bit of kit it is too. Before we got there I told the wife that it was about $65, so when we got there and it was only $42, she was happy. Sometimes you have to play around with the numbers, so everyone comes away feeling happy

I got the car running and I was able to get some results. When the temp. needle on the dash was at 1/4 the readings were as follows; 60oC at the top hose and 30oC at the bottom hose. When the fan kicked in at just past 1/2 way the readings were; 68oC top hose and 48oC at the bottom hose. The pump housing was reading 87oC though, which I may need to look into. The fan kicked in and then the temp. gauge did go back to 1/4.

The second time the fan kicked in the temp. readings were 74oC on the pump housing, 74oC on the top hose and 72oC on the bottom hose.

I think I will need to check these again to see what is going on, but the good thing is that it does not seem like it is going to the "danger zone". All those who remember Top Gun will remember that lol.

[Hasbeen]

Gee Phil, now you're in trouble, [}:)] with the thing running too cold. [:D]

Now you know, we should never trust the temperature gauge Triumph fitted in our cars. Well at least not until you have checked it & know what it means.

Peace of mind, & a great result.

Has been

[Workshop Help]

Okay, according to my rusty, trusty slide rule, 74C = 165F in temperature. Your bottom of the radiator reading of 72C = 161F.

I smell two problems.

1. The thermostat should be changed to a 180F item.
2. The radiator is clogged and needs to have the tubes rodded out or a new recore job done. The change in temperature should be far greater than two degrees.

Be sure to use a 50/50 mix of straight antifreeze with distilled water. Avoid the common 50/50 premix blends as the water at the factory may have come directly from the faucet.

Mildred Hargis

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks Hasbeen,
I have a plan to do a mini service on my car soon (within the next few weeks). Here I will be changing the coolant that is currently in her and and also replacing the coolant sensor. Do it all while she is empty and all that. When I have done this and she is all back up and running, I will have a look at changing the fan setting so that it comes in a little later to try and save her from running too cool.

[FI Spyder]

I'm with Mildred here. There seems to be very little flow through the radiator based on temperature differential (0 degrees in one sample). Second, I always use concentrated coolant with distilled water. I always have a bunch from my dehumidifier. The concentrate is only a buck more than 50/50 so the 50/50 is a rip off and you never know where they got the water from.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[UKPhilTR7]

Oh yes the reason for the slight temperature change could be the fact that the car does not move much at the moment. She is not on the road going down the highway (or should I say free way here lol), with the wind going through her rad. One thing I could try if putting a fan at the front of the car to simulate air flow. Then I could see the if the top and bottom temp. is a significant change.

Easy enough changing to a 180F item.

Think I will look into a rad, but as she is running cooler and not overheating it will not be top of the list. Think I may fo to the aluminium option next.

[Workshop Help]

To belabor the point here, if you please.

This has been said before, once upon a time. Please realize there is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock TR7 radiator. NOTHING. Compared with modern cars, our radiators are the size of those used in trucks with large V-8's. The viscous fan works just fine, as do the electric fans. The water pump, be it 6 or 12 vanes, is quite efficient. So is the heater unit. In short, the stock cooling system and cabin heater are more than up to the task of keeping the engine properly cooled while keeping our frozen little toes warm and cozy. An expensive racing type aluminium radiator will only drain your bank account, it will not be any more efficient or as long lasting as the stock radiator.

Granted, you have moved to a more heat intense part of the world than what you are used to. However, please know my neck of the woods rivals the Oz climate in summer and overheating of my TR7 is non-existent. If, tho, you do wish to optimize the air flow to and thru the radiator, please avail yourself of my cooling system upgrade articles in The Workshop Manual. You won't break the bank following my methods.

For all you folks on this planet, keeping your TR7 cooling system in good condition is a key to happiness. Periodic coolant changes, hose inspections, monitoring radiator temperature changes from the top to bottom, along with observing the function of the thermostat will provide you with peace of mind as you scamper over the hills and faraway in your glorious TR7.

Mildred Hargis