• The contacts inside the distributor cap were showing signs of corrosion as were some earth wires;
• The spark plugs from cylinder 1, 2 and 4 looked OK, but number 3 was literally washed clean;
• Removing spark plug caps one by one reveals that number 3 is not working on idle;
• Measured the spark plug leads but the measurements were the same as a (new) spare set.
• Ignition timing is spot on (in this case 11° BTDC, checked both static and dynamic);
• Changed dizzy cap, spark plugs, spark plug leads and coil, no success;
• Checked the compression to see if there was anything wrong with number 3.
Should have done it on a warm engine but I just wanted to rule out any issues with cylinder number 3:
o # 1 - 8,0 kg/cm² (114 psi)
o # 2 - 10,0 kg/cm² (142 psi)
o # 3 - 9,7 kg/cm² (138 psi)
o # 4 - 9,4 kg/cm² (134 psi)
Clearly nothing wrong with number three, but number one's too low.
But I don't think that's causing the problem
• Checked the carburettors but nothing visibly wrong there.
• Same applies for the in line filters and the electric fuel pump;
• With the ignition switched on and the dizzy's chopper disc in the correct position
I got a reading of approximately 6 Volts. So the ballast wire is OK;
• Checked valve clearances, though not spot on, they didn't need immediate adjustment.
Al the above have had no effect whatsoever, so has anyone suggestions as to a solution for this problem?
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<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
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