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Steering Wheel Movement

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kermit
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Steering Wheel Movement

Postby kermit » 02 May 2014 12:48

Last night I noticed some play in the steering wheel. There is about a quarter inch of movement when you pull the steering wheel forward and backward. There is no sideways movement as the PO installed a new poly bush at the firewall. The steering wheel nut is tight.

Looking for some opinions. Could the slack be adjusted at the upper UJ near the firewall in the engine bay? Searched the archives and most of the threads were based on the grommets.

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1980 TR8 DHC - Poseidon Green
1980 TR7 DHC - Brooklands Green

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 02 May 2014 13:29

There is a little short tube under the dash, through which the steering column goes. It has a bearing top & bottom, [polly bushes today].

There is a clamp on the column at the bottom of this tube, which prevents the column, [& wheel], coming towards you. It is held tight with a pinch bolt, [cotter pin type of thing].

Loosen the pinch bolt, & slide the clamp up against the bottom of the tube, not too tightly, & tighten the pinch bolt, & all play will magically disappear.

Hope your PO, or his mechanic has left the lower bearing a bit proud of the tube, so you don't have metal/metal contact, so it won't be noisy. Move the clamp down a little if it is.

Hasbeen

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 02 May 2014 13:56

I presume you are just a fit young bloke, who'll have no trouble getting upside down into the footwell, so you can see what I was talking about in the first post.

However just incase you are a clapped out footballer, with a bad back, here is how this clapped out old fart, with a bad back handles under dash work, in a FHC.

We have plastic milk crates in Oz. These are about the same height as the top of the 7s sill. these are the property of the milk companies, but most people have a couple or more in the shed.

I open the car door, & place one of these milk crates, upside down, beside the car at the back part of the opening. If I am going to spend much time in there I will remove the steering wheel, but this is not necessary.

I usually place 3 old folded army blankets, [like the milk crates, everyone seems to have a few], across from the milk crate over the sill, to make the experience more enjoyable, & less painful.

I now sit on the milk crate, facing rearward, & lay back across the sill, getting my shoulders & head into the footwell. This is not so comfortable that you are likely to doze off, but is much better than having your bum on the seat, your legs jammed against the roof, & your head jammed into your right armpit.

You even have reasonable use of your hands, provided you have arranged one arm on each side of the steering column as you go in.

All you need is one of Mildred's glamorous assistants to hand you your tools. Do make sure you train said glamorous assistant in recognizing your tools before hand, as you are in no position to start explaining just what those little numbers on your spanners mean.

Oh & do remember, this is FUN. [:D]

The whole forgoing is not that critical with your DHC, as you at least have somewhere for your feet to go, with the top down, but it does avoid some contortions even so.

Hasbeen

kermit
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Postby kermit » 02 May 2014 16:10

Great advice Hasbeen. I am a middle aged bloke who does have some back issues at the moment. The body isn't as flexible as it was 5 years ago [:p]. Going to give your milk crate idea a shot. I am familiar with the steering column from replacing the bush on the 7.

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jeffremj
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Postby jeffremj » 02 May 2014 16:11

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by kermit</i>

Last night I noticed some play in the steering wheel. There is about a quarter inch of movement when you pull the steering wheel forward and backward. There is no sideways movement as the PO installed a new poly bush at the firewall. The steering wheel nut is tight.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Get someone to move the wheel as appropriate and check what is happening in the engine bay. In my case, someone tried to get the steering wheel off by banging it - it damaged the (manual) steering pinion bearing in the rack:

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At least the replacements still seem to be available at Rimmers.

kermit
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Postby kermit » 02 May 2014 19:27

jeffremj - I am hoping that it isn't the power steering rack. The PO did work to it and replaced the pump not too long ago.

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1980 TR8 DHC - Poseidon Green
1980 TR7 DHC - Brooklands Green

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 04 May 2014 01:27

This is an interesting post as I have the same issue too and would be very interested in finding out how to cure this problem. I can pull on my steering when and move it forward and back an inch or two. Noting too major, but something that I would like to get shot of.

I think I will have to use Hasbeens method too as this is one of the jobs that has been hanging around for a bit now, but I have been putting it off as I really didn't want to get into the small space.

I will have a look at this and post my findings too.

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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 04 May 2014 01:42

Just had a look and these are still there in Rimmers, but I am having problems trying to see where this goies or is fitted.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 04 May 2014 03:10

That is the pinion part of the rack & pinion.

It won't be that. The whole top of your rack would have to be smashed out for that to move far. It could move a little, if the bearing had totally collapsed, but at the same time, the steering wheel would have to rotate, or the road wheels, for it to move more than a few thou. The steering would be so bad, it would be deadly.

It is the clamp I mentioned that controls the in/out movement of the column, & with it the steering wheel. With that correctly adjusted the wheel can not move in & out, even if you removed the whole rack completely.

If you get someone to move the wheel in & out for you, while you look in the engine compartment, you will see the column moving in & out of the firewall bearing. You will also see the intermediate section of the column, straightening between the universals, to allow that movement.

Stop talking you lazy lot [:D], & get your heads down under the dash, & all will be revealed. [:)]

Hasbeen

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 11 May 2014 06:14

Today I took Hasbeen's advice and stopped talking and got of my ass and went down to my girl to sort out my steering wheel movement, buck and forward.

I started by with the clip against attached to the steering wheel column inside to cockpit. I loosened the not and bolt and then tried to move it up to remove the movement. This did not work and it was only when I took the clip fully of, I found that there was a channel on the column which meant that it would only sit in the one position to allow the bolt to sit in the channel.

I remembered what Hasbeen said, to get someone in the cockpit to pull/push the steering wheel while I watch what is going on in the engine bay. My son was not around so I pulled and pushed on the steering column in the engine bay. it all look a little loos for my liking. I followed it all the way down to the steering rack itself. Movement in the last knuckle attached to the rack. I tightened up the bolt in the knuckle attached to the rack. No more movement. It was fixed.

Hopefully, if you try this kermit, it may help you out. Good luck and I hope that you fix your steering wheel movement issue.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 11 May 2014 08:51

Gee Phil, a pom doing what an Ozzie told them to do, you must be sick. Where does it hurt most mate?

Well done fixing that steering, even without a glamorous assistant.

Hasbeen

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 11 May 2014 09:37

Lol Hasbeen, I thought my post may bring a few comments for all the Ozzy's here. To tell you the truth, it hurts all over, I cannot narrow it down to just one area [:D]

It would of been nice to have an assistant though.

Hopefully, Kermit, will be able to fix his problem too.

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kermit
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Postby kermit » 12 May 2014 16:33

Turns out the lower bolt on the upper UJ inside the engine bay was loose. Tightened it up and no more movement[8D]. My back was spared this time!

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1980 TR8 DHC - Poseidon Green
1980 TR7 DHC - Brooklands Green

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 May 2014 21:34

It looks like both our issues were related and the same advice fixed both, without the need for too much money or time to be spent on it. Good result all round. That is one job of the very big list;) Always good to look on the bright side of like and it os better to take one off the list rather than put one on.

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