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Attempting Lift

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silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 09 Mar 2014 01:59

Here's how I do it at work ;
(maybe it's because I've worked all my life at car dealers , but I can't stand working on my back , and "only" work on my car in the shop on a lift.)
We also have a floor level drive on ramp at the shop which is excellent for oil changes and such when you don't want to play around with lifting the car on the "body"


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Stag76
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Postby Stag76 » 09 Mar 2014 03:49

It's surprising how little roof height is required to get a full lift. My shed is 3.0m at the gutter, and 3.6 at the peak, and that is plenty to lift my TR7, Stag or Celica to the hoists maximum.

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Postby Spectatohead » 09 Mar 2014 04:57

A lift would probably not work well here with the 7 foot ceiling in the garage. The house at the beach, that I someday hope to retire to, has a 12 foot ceiling in the garage. It is also already wired for 220 and the breaker is labeled "welder" so I told my wife that I needed a welder to plug in there. [:D]

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 09 Mar 2014 11:14

Good points. My sister in Edmonton has a high ceiling garage thst must be 12' as the roof angles from the second floor. I must say I envied that. The is a guy in the club that has a lift and he raises the lift high enough to use a stool on casters so he can sit and roll himself around to were he needs to be. Might be even better than standing. Don't know until one's actually done it but it works for him. some times it's nice to work on a crawler.

Quick thinking, Jim on that welder. A few years ago I put 220 sub panel down in garage and had lines for 220v compressor, 120v for welder, 220v for oven for powder coating,extra lighting and outlets as well as 4 lines going back into house for freezer, fireplace extra outlets. Got it passed on final inspection but had a numer of consultations as there's always new laws that aren't in the books.

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 09 Mar 2014 12:23

Hi Peter,

That is one scary video [:0] especially writing as someone who is under one of those things everyday, lucky we have lifts manufactured by very reputable companies and inspected every six month by a insurance engineer, something that does need to be done if you had one for home use, which is madness especially when you can buy made in China junk manufactured out of tin foil [V] .

I personally would never support a car on a sprung suspension part, jacking points only, then give it a good rock when a inch or so off the ground if in doubt. Never had a conversation with someone who has had a car fall on there head [xx(]it would never happen they would be dead simple as that. I was told by the engineer that comes into work to check our ramps that, it is the only lifting device you are allowed to work under with only one support involved.

Having over the years seen a couple of car's slip off two post ramps for God sake you guys having them at home be bl88dy careful. What can seem ok can very quickly change when heavy components such as engines etc. are removed and the balance points change leading to things going horribly wrong. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES THEY WILL KILL YOU

Cheers John

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Postby Odd » 09 Mar 2014 12:26

Thank God we've got <u>real</u> power in this country;
230V 16A single phase circuits for ordinary domestic use and
400V 16A three phase circuits for the 'serious' stuff.

I had the house increased to 400V 25A main breakers when I started the build of [url="http://s278.photobucket.com/user/OddHedberg/slideshow/Bygget/?albumview=slideshow"]the Man Cave[/url] some years back.
So, as it is wired now I (can) use 400V 16A 3-ph to most of my 'toys/tools' (Compressor, Welders, Drill press, 2-pillar Hoist etc).
That's almost 20kW - each...[:D]

And going back to the original topic: Why not fit thick enough rubber pads on the arms - and drill a
locating hole through it - and use the designed to be used for lifting oem jacking points with the spigots?
That's what I intend to do with my hoist... I've got 3.3 to 4.5 m to the roof. [~11 to ~15 ft]

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Postby DNK » 09 Mar 2014 13:22

Ron- In that pic with the back locations.There is a crumpled,flattened or something piece of metal.
What was that I see it in mine too?

Don
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Postby DNK » 09 Mar 2014 13:30

ODD, Those point are to close to the body edge to get a pad on
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It's about 67 mm from the edge.
I guess you could drill a hole in the pad offset.
The one in the rear is fairly close to a part that curves down so it it not flat.
Guess you could do the same there.
What's structural under that?

Don
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 09 Mar 2014 14:08

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DNK</i>

Ron- In that pic with the back locations.There is a crumpled,flattened or something piece of metal.
What was that I see it in mine too?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I read somewhere that bracket was used as a tie down point used during shipping. most are caved in as they have been used as a support point at some time in their lives. Not meant for that.

Good point made that you have to be very careful with support points when removing heavy parts like engine, trans, rear axle.

I've only had one incidence. When jacking up on side of the Integra on the jack point the jack was on rough cement driveway and the wheels couldn't move over it as the car was raised, jack slipped off jack point and rested on car floor denting it. I now have a plate steel for the jack wheels have something smooth to turn on. Never in any danger of course as never get near the car unless it's on jack stands. If supporting on a new point or new car always give the heave ho to make sure it's not going anywhere.

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Postby Odd » 09 Mar 2014 15:35

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> ODD, Those point are to close to the body edge to get a pad on <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I've used a wooden block to fit inbetween the spigot area and the lifting device - thus widening the footprint
and closely following the shape of the car. I guess I'll make hard rubber pads along the same idea...

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silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 09 Mar 2014 17:31

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DNK</i>

Ron- In that pic with the back locations.There is a crumpled,flattened or something piece of metal.
What was that I see it in mine too....
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The supposed tie down hook possibly ??

we will use this pic for reference ;

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I'm not sure if it's the right place to lift the car , but it works for me..... I do have to straighten it ou from time time though. I guess it could probably be removed outright with little effort, after all it's not probably ever get used to transport tiedown ever!

Btw John, you work at a dealer , where do you lift your car ???

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 09 Mar 2014 17:52

Hi Ron,

Not lifted my car's on a two poster for years, we have a couple of four posters, one for MOT Tests and a geometry alignment ramp, if it needs to go wheel free then both these ramps have a jacking beams on them and use the jacking points with wood blocks.


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Cheers John

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LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty Now with an overdrive conversion

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

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Postby DNK » 09 Mar 2014 20:00

]Image

Mines all flattened

Don
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Stag76
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Postby Stag76 » 09 Mar 2014 20:26

My tie-down points have not always looked like that...they have spent most of their life flattened against the floor.

I was advised to lift the TR7 under the trailing arms as lifting forward of the trailing arm mounting point gives you a central lift point too close to the centre of gravity of the car. The original jacking points were designed to be used individually for removing wheels, hence only one jack was supplied.

There have been a lot more cars fall off trolley jacks than hoists, with the same result.

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