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Attempting Lift

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DNK
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Attempting Lift

Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 15:31

Well, I'm about to put my cahonnes in a knot and put my car on my lift for the first time.
I know we talked about where to put the lift pads and I wanted to refresh my memory and I couldn't find it.
So if you would, can you refresh this old memory again?

Don
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Postby Workshop Help » 08 Mar 2014 16:59

Speaking for the group, it is humbly suggested your personal equipage be refrained from bindings of any kind.

As for lift points for the car, place your jack under the more substantial under pinnings away from the single gauge sheet metal.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 17:04

Being an ignoramus on the under side of the car (but about to be an expert) I have no idea where that is

Don
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Peter Nuss
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Postby Peter Nuss » 08 Mar 2014 17:25

There's no place safe to put the "lift pads" on the bottom. NONE!! I've owned 15 or so of these cars, all of them have damage in different areas from people that didn't heed this advise. If you insist on doing it, you'll need to make much larger pads to spread the load to a larger area. Of course most people won't do that. So, good luck trying to find a good spot. My 79 coupe I've had since 1980. In the few months the first owner had it, he managed to mess up the underside from lifts. It could have only been the dealer's doing as all of it's service came from them.

TR8

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Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 17:27

Thanks for the warm fuzzy feeling Peter

Don
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Postby Stag76 » 08 Mar 2014 18:30

I lift mine under the transverse chassis member that's forward of the footwell, and about half way along the rear trailing arm. There's a hole with raised edges there that grip on the pad. If I need to remove the rear suspension, if lift it just forward of the trailing arm mounting point where the vertical bulkhead meets the floor. Mine is an old hoist with adjustable round pads approx. 150mm in diameter.
These are very strong body shells, and I've never had any troubles.

Lift it about 100mm from the floor, them rock it to make sure that it's stable to build your confidence.

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Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 18:37

One of the lings I mentioned is Kind of clueless to the body part names and where they are
Sorry
transverse chassis member- A rail that goes side to side in the front
Here???
Image

The one in the back you actually put it on the trailing arm? Cool

My pads are about 125mm

Don
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Mar 2014 18:53

I put a 2x3 about two feet long or so under the cross member and lift under it with my hydraulic jack. the wood helps distribute the weight and provides a soft surface to prevent chafing. I then put jack stands under the frame area behind the front wheels. I then go to the back and put a piece of wood under the diff and lift up the rear with the hydraulic jack and put jack stands in front of the rear wheels can't remember where exactly I sort of follow my nose) sometimes iner the lower links, sometimes under the rear axle depending on what I'm doing. I will be putting my car up in the next week or two, I'll know better then. I use a strip of cardboard between the jack stands and the frame so as not to scrape the undercoating and paint. Repeat to get the car higher. Don't like to raise it too high one one end at a time. Here's some pictures of jack stands at different times.

Image


Image

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Image

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Postby saabfast » 08 Mar 2014 19:30

I tend to use the cross members with the jack pin as in your photo for lifting, using a trolley jack with a 2x1 batten the length of the member between the main chassis rails and the pins. I figure that if they are strong enough for a more concentrated jack load for wheel changing they should be OK with a more spread load. I can then put the axle stands (with timber pad) under the main longitudinal chassis rails at the front and under the trailing arms at the rear.

Alan
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Postby Stag76 » 08 Mar 2014 20:37

[quote]One of the lings I mentioned is Kind of clueless to the body part names and where they are
Sorry
transverse chassis member- A rail that goes side to side in the front
Here???<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That's the point I use...just on the inside of the pin, and the rear under the trailing arm or the bulkhead behind the seats.

Are you talking about using a hoist or jacks and stands.

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Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 20:48

Image

Image

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Mar 2014 21:13

I want one of those.[8D]


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Postby DNK » 08 Mar 2014 22:29

I like the screw up pads ,Those are nice

Don
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Postby Spectatohead » 08 Mar 2014 23:14

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

I want one of those.[8D]

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Me too! Nice.

Jim Clark
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Postby Peter Nuss » 09 Mar 2014 01:24

For what it's worth....I would never lift a car on a hoist by using sprung suspension parts. Like the rear control arms. The lift pads need to be on solid car components. Using the suspension parts is a great way for it to fall off the lift. Cars fall off lifts much more than people realize. Go to youtube, there are pages of them falling off all kinds of lifts in professional shops and homes.

There in lies the dig. There's really no good spot in the rear to lift on. I just don't see the advantage of a lift unless in a shop with a ceiling high enough to comfortably stand and work on it. Home shops.....ah....no


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLUjq6ijvVc

Good luck with yours though.

TR8

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