Slave cylinder and braised pipe connector leak

[UKPhilTR7]

Today I went down to the garage to put the new slave cylinder on, bleed the system with my new speed bleeder on and then start the car. By the end of the day I was asking myself why the hell do things always go wrong on my car??? A simple enough job turned into something bad.

The new cylinder went on all OK, with the speed bleeder and the braised steel cable got connected all OK. With the help of my son, we bled the system and all seemed to be going good. That is when it started to go wrong lol. I pressed the clutch peddle and it was rather springy, only to find that the speed bleeder was not tight enough and it was gushing out fluid. I tightened it up and then pumped it all again and a little leak popped up. Just a little drip towards the end of the peddle press down, when the pressure was on the system.

I was unsure as to where the leak was coming from, so I put the bleed nut that I got with the new slave cylinder. The thought here was to take it back to how it came and limit things that could be leaking. This resulted in another lot of clutch fluid on the floor lol.

All on and pumped and still the drip towards the end of the peddle. Everything is on tight. The steel pipe nut going into the slave (where it seems to be coming from) cannot be tightened any tighter and still a drip.

So after a few hours on the floor with clutch fluid all over me, in my hair and mouth, I had enough and decided to call it a day. The slave and the braised cable are from reputable suppliers and it seemed all OK on the old cylinder.

Has anyone had this happen where you used the existing clutch cable (which was fine up till now) and a new slave cylinder?

I was thinking of taking the cable connector out and putting some pdf tape around it, but not sure it will hold it.

[Cobber]

Jeez, you get yourself into some trouble!

Now I know you all excited, but I'm having a little trouble making out what you're trying to say here. [:D]

Now lets see if we can make some sense out of this.
When you say: <i>"Just a little drip towards the end of the peddle press down"</i> Do you mean you are getting a leak from the master cylinder at the pedal? Or do you mean you're getting the leak from the slave cylinder when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way to the floor?

And what is this cable, you speak of?: <i>"I was thinking of taking the cable connector out and putting some pdf tape around it, but not sure it will hold it."</i>
Pdf tape? You're tying to convert the cable into a computer filling format? [:D] Perhaps you mean pft (teflon tape)? and no don't!






"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[saabfast]

If I read it right, the leak is at the braided pipe connection to the slave cylinder and happens at the end of pedal travel, ie when the pressure is highest because the clutch fork is pushing on the pressure plate at the end of its travel.
It sounds as if the slave cylinder may be faulty with either a bad thread/seating for the pipe connection or a porous bit of casting. PTFE tape should not be required (and I would not really like to rely on it), but it could be tried to see if it seals the problem, then look at the end of the pipe and the connection hole in the slave cylinder to see which has the problem.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
Saab 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

[Workshop Help]

Cobber, sweetie, it is apparent we need to matriculate you thru a remedial course in deciphering English as spoken by immigrants.

1. 'Clutch cable' = Clutch hose.
2. 'Braised cable' = Braided hose.
3. 'Just a little drip towards the end of the peddle, (pedal), press down' = A drip from the clutch hose fitting at the slave cylinder.
4. 'ptf tape' = Teflon sealant tape.

As for the defect in the Clutch Slave Cylinder, I humbly suggest the taper in the drilling be examined to confirm it is smooth and able to effect a proper seal. If not, dress it down with an abrasive to achieve your sought after perfection.

Class dismissed.

Mildred Hargis

[whitenviro]

If you do try teflon tape be sure to keep it only on the threads section. Don't cover any tapered mating surfaces where the real seal is supposed to be occurring. If it has been cut properly, those surfaces should make a tight metal to metal fit and tape would just mess that up.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[UKPhilTR7]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies.Sorry Cobber, wrote this after a few hours of getting in a lot of mess and thinking why the hell lol. The rest of the guys have it right.

The leak is coming from the slave cylinder end, when the clutch peddle is pressed all the way down and the pressure is at its greatest. The little drip seems to be coming from the braised hose connector going into the slave.

My thought was that the thread was the problem and that by putting some tape on the thread only, this would confirm if this was the problem. Oh yes making sure not to put it on the little hole

The slave cylinder came from the UK, so if it is that, it sure will be a pain to get it back. I really must find a good supplier here in Australia lol.

[Cobber]

You need to check that the fitting on the end of the braided hose is the right kind to mate with the port of the slave cylinder.


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[UKPhilTR7]

I was thinking that to tell you the truth, but I would of thought (or hoped) that they are the same thread.

[Cobber]

No, I don't think it's the thread that would be the problem, it's the flare/taper seat that's most likely the problem.


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[john 215]

Hi Phil,

On my braided hose there is an adaptor that actually screws into the cylinder and the pipe ( it did come attached to the pipe ) are you sure you don't have a leak there ? A tip is, if you clean and dry everything off totally, use something like brake cleaner, then get some talcum powder and dust around the joints then push your clutch down you can check to see where the leak is from, the fluid will show up against the talc, plus your car will smell nice !! I use it work a lot to track water leaks on convertibles, you be surprised how far a fluid will travel from the actual leak to when and where it becomes visible.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty Now with an overdrive conversion

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

[UKPhilTR7]

Yesterday I went down to have a look at ot all. tightened a few nuts and tried it again and still a drip. So I get the old cylinder and looked at that as I was thinking of putting it back on. Then when looking at the pipe tread, I noticed that it was a little raised. On clover closer inspection a copper washer came of. It was stuck on the old one before. Rotfl off come all the pipe again and on went this little missing item

I tightened it all up and filled up the master. I didn't have timefvto bleed the system. But after a few hours there was no drip or sigh of one. When I came to the car first thing there was a big puddle under tue car where tue fluid had dripped out. However this time there nothing like that. So a good start. All I need to do now is bleed the system and see how it good. Fingers crossed though.

So if it is this little item that got stuck on the old one in Alltel mess, I will be happy that it is sorted but oh gosh what a pain this little washer can bring when it os not on. The washer goes between the slave and the cable, where it was leaking from. I will use the talc trick though to make sure all is ok and sorted. Will keep u posted.

[trsforever]

Hi, there are two methods of sealing these fittings into the slave and
master cylinder, 1, is a taper seat similar to the original pipe
flaring, the taper on new fitting will contact the taper in the
bottom of the inlet in the slave if you remove fitting you should be able to see a complete circle/ring mark where it has been seating, if the marking is not complete that will be the problem.
2, or you will need a copper washer to seal the shoulder of the fitting against the face of the slave. I see on Rimmer web site there hose ukc3883gr shows copper washers on the fittings, if it is this type and they leak at the washer if you loosen the fitting and retighten it they may reseal.
If it still leaks you need to check that the washer is thick
enough to "crush" to seal (thread of fitting can bottom out in slave
and feel tight with spanner but is not putting enough pressure on washer to seal)
Hope this is of some help. Good luck.

Regards Scott.

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for that trsforever, I think mine was the second version with the small copper ring, which didn't come of straight away, but now it is on, there is no drips at all. All is good there and I think it is all sorted out. I have put the car back down on all fours (sounds a bit rude lol) and a mat under her to see if the drip comes back. Hope and do not think it will.

I have bled it and all the air seems to be out at least from the tube. Still no leak, all looking good. However, (and there is always a however), now when I press down on the pedal down now I get a hollow click sound now, as if there is air still in it, but not know how it can be.

Tomorrow, I will check if there has been a leak, but any words of wisdom on the hollow sound when I press the pedal in and how to get shot of it would be great. Can get into gears all OK when going through the box, but one or two need a double clutch as per before.

[saabfast]

Sounds nastily like it might be the clutch fork dimple wearing through. Make sure the slave is tightened to the bell housing too, not moving, but be careful not to strip the threads.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
Saab 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by UKPhilTR7</i>

now when I press down on the pedal down now I get a hollow click sound now, as if there is air still in it, but not know how it can be.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Should that possibly be described as a hollow springy sound. When I assembled the pedal box after painting I got that sound from the clutch pedal return spring. I repositioned it once and put a strip of foam in the middle of the spring to help dampen it as it's sill there a little.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT