Light switch connector

[RUDDY]

I plan all my trips for daylight hours ...[:D]

[TR Tony]

I don't think there is a part number for the socket as a separate part. The wiring harness looms were made by Rists, the individual looms that made up the whole assembly had their own part numbers, but I have never seen a part number for the individual plugs or sockets.

I am sure you could get a decent used socket off a loom from a scrapped car, there seem to be enough TR7s being broken at the moment if eBay is anything to judge by[:(]

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

[Hasbeen]

I'm with you Ruddy.

The last time I used the 7 at night, it wasn't the headlights that went out, but the other side of the switch. That took the instrument lights, plus some outside lights, like the tail lights, parking lights, & I believe something else.

I had quite a bit of town driving to do, so was driving along with the small torch in hand, shining it on the speedo every few hundred yards, to check my speed, & avoid getting a ticket.

I had done just 35 minutes on a new light switch. The white pins in the latest reproduction switch just aren't up to the job, & I had run out of the old black pins.

If I had tried I probably could have found some high heat delrin to make new pins, but I made a couple out of brass. Now if it gets too hot, I suppose half switch will melt.

I have tested the lights with that switch for 10 minutes, however, being a coward at heart, I use your plan Ruddy. If I have to go somewhere at night, I take another car.

Hasbeen

[Triumph TR7V8 coupé]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>



The white pins in the latest reproduction switch just aren't up to the job, & I had run out of the old black pins.


Hasbeen


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi,

I had the white pin melting the first time, replaced them with the black ones from a spare switch; now the black one has gone.
I think by doing this we are just ignoring the problem and the result could be worse when something else starts to melt/burn.

On my ASAP to do list; replacing the connector with a sound one and getting some relays to avoid high charge over the switch.

J.

[DNK]

Now is this the back of the switch, or is it a wire connector "to" the switch?

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[Hasbeen]

No Don, this is the little pin in the toggle part of the switch, that move the copper bars.

Yes J, I agree that there is a reason for the problems. I went right through the headlight circuit, eliminating resistance in connectors etc. & relaying the headlights. I thought I had done the job. This is in the accessory side of the switch, & getting at all the connectors & possible earthing problem areas in that, is just too much for the old body right now.

I decided the fuse protection would have to do for now, but will only use the thing at night, if I get caught out for now.

Hasbeen

[whitenviro]

I am headed to a Pick N Pull yard in Vancouver this week that has a 1980 DHC in it. If you want, I'll check out the switch and connector. If it is in good condition I can cut it off the harness with enough wire so that you can do a splice. It shouldn't cost more than a few dollars to send a small package to Belgium.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[DNK]

If it has a kick panel vent ..I'll take that!

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[Spectatohead]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by whitenviro</i>

I am headed to a Pick N Pull yard in Vancouver this week that has a 1980 DHC in it. If you want, I'll check out the switch and connector. If it is in good condition I can cut it off the harness with enough wire so that you can do a splice. It shouldn't cost more than a few dollars to send a small package to Belgium.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Vancouver Washington or BC? There are a couple parts I can think of that I could use too.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[whitenviro]

B.C.
Put together a list and I'll get anything it has, as long as it comes off easily. We are going up Sunday and will probably pull things on Monday.

I don't know much about the car; they won't send me much info on it but the guy on the phone says the top is up and interior stuff may still be ok, though it has been raining. It is a pull-it-yourself parts yard, so once they set it out there people tear into them for the things they want and aren't very careful about it. It has been there for about a week.

I want to get a clutch fork and pivot, and may take the whole short block engine for my Sprint build-up, if it is decent.



[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[DNK]

If the vents are there you need to drill the rivets out


Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[frankman]

Hi J Tr7V8 coupé

Like Don told You and I did: Lucas C835 ist the Part I guess and again look at:

http://www.britishwiring.com/Hazard-Warning-Switch-Plug-p/c835.htm

... so I guess the Beer I'll drink later [:p]

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

[whitenviro]

I pulled the switches and connectors from the car at the Pick N Pull, and they are available if you want them. They are buried at the moment, but I'll send a pic tomorrow. The connectors were black rather than the translucent white, but look in good condition.

Don, I also got your vent doors, but they are a little rough. Nothing a good scrub and a coat of paint won't hide.

The car had only 33,000 miles on it, but in a lot of ways was pretty rough. But it turned over alright and the engine bay was o.k. so I pulled the whole engine and trans and brought it home. Call it practice; I love tearing things apart. Getting them back together, well, that's a different story....


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[Triumph TR7V8 coupé]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by whitenviro</i>

The connectors were black rather than the translucent white, but look in good condition.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi,

I wasen't able to visit the forum sooner but i'm still interested in the light connector so if you want to sell it to me just email me your price and how to pay.

The site Frank has posted is a verry intresting one but that connector hasen't got the two legs that keep the connector in place so I'm going for the original one.

J.