Handbrake setup

dursleyman · Postby **dursleyman** » 09 Jul 2013 19:05

Getting near MOT time and thought I would get some advice from the forum about getting the handbrake (parking brake) working more effectively.

The handbrake will just about hold on a slope but doesn't inspire confidence so I am obviously missing a trick getting it set up properly. Travel is about right, not too much, not too little, but no "bite".

Rear brakes are adjusted up (any more they will drag) and everything is well lubricated so what am I doing wrong?
I have a new cable in stock so would that make it any better?

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

kstrutt1 · Postby **kstrutt1** » 09 Jul 2013 19:28

diconnect the cable at the drums, if it moves freely then it is OK, any significant resistance and replace it, otherwise the spreading linkage in the drum can sieze and wear, take it appart, free up and lightly lubricate.
kevin

saabfast · Postby **saabfast** » 09 Jul 2013 20:36

Also check that the compensator on the diff housing is greased and working/set properly. Wear in the lever operation at the drums can also affetc operation. There is adjustment of the cable at each connection to the drum lever and at the HB lever over the prop shaft IIRC.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 10 Jul 2013 00:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dursleyman

Rear brakes are adjusted up (any more they will drag) and everything is well lubricated so what am I doing wrong?
I have a new cable in stock so would that make it any better?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

All pivot points not only should be lubricated but be free of corrosion so they have minimal resistance to movement. It requires some muscle at the best of times. I don't see how a new cable will help.

Should look like this.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Stag76 · Postby **Stag76** » 10 Jul 2013 01:11

I made some simple extensions to fit on the levers. They give the lever a completely different feel (like it's applying the brakes, not jammed against something), and give a big improvement to the braking.

[TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

trsforever · Postby **trsforever** » 10 Jul 2013 01:59

Hi Russ,
When you adjusted the rear brakes did you do it with the hand brake cables disconnected from the levers on the wheel cylinders?
This is the best way I have found, when drums are set correct you then adjust the length of the hand brake cable to suit the lever position.
I do like those nifty extension levers of stag76'S.

Regards Scott.

Jolyon39 · Postby **Jolyon39** » 10 Jul 2013 02:26

The compensator lever on the diff housing has always been the biggest problem for me...... in there is a rubber bush that is always rotted out. If you remove the lever, wire brush all parts of that assembly so that it pivots and replace the bush (Must replace that bush) then you will probably notice quite a difference.

Jolyon

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 10 Jul 2013 07:57

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stag76

I made some simple extensions to fit on the levers ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Very neat solution [:)]

I haven't had much issues over the years, but I have to admit that I hardly use the hand brake.
What I have found out though is that it's action is influenced heavily by the adjuster.
As it adjust a notch the hand brake action will instantly change from "hardly-adequate" to "up-to-job".

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My full Weblog[/url]</center>

Jolyon39 · Postby **Jolyon39** » 10 Jul 2013 11:50

Those extensions for the lever on the drums are available via ebay, the following auction:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag- ... 51ae5ce05b

Jolyon

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 10 Jul 2013 12:27

my vote goes to Stag76's solution, much neater [;)]

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My full Weblog[/url]</center>

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 10 Jul 2013 14:03

I agree. When are we going to see them on eBay?[:)]

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

dursleyman · Postby **dursleyman** » 10 Jul 2013 17:14

OK, update on the handbrake job. I had a really good go at it this afternoon and as you might have all guessed the problem seems to have been a combination of many small things.

I disconnected it all and gave it all a good cleanup and lubrication. The pivot on the axle had been apart within the past year when I also fitted new bushes but it was still a bit sticky even so. I oiled the cable itself as much as possible by blowing some oil along through it and lots of push-pull-push action. Took off the drums and readjusted the "self-adjusters". Interestingly the rubber boots on the handbrake levers had vanished. They were new not long ago but had obviously broken up - looks like another case of reproduction with rubbish materials. Luckily I found a couple of usable old Lockheed ones in the garage.

The Ebay extensions that Jolyon points out WILL NOT FIT our cars.
I did investigate them but they foul on the damper brackets. It might be possible to modify them but its not a straight bolt on fit.

Anyway, I now have a working handbrake. Its good enough to pass the MOT but no hope of a handbrake turn.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

Ianftr8 · Postby **Ianftr8** » 10 Jul 2013 18:37

Triumph were aware that the handbrakes were not good enough on their cars back as far as the first Trs - hand brake lever extensions were available from "Stanpart" to help assist the lever action (they worked for me on a Spitfire we used for autotesting.

Interestingly I took my Tr for it's MOT on Monday (passed first go[:D]). My tester suggested that the changes in the test criteria even on "classic" cars will mean that more attention will be paid on brake Balance - meaning that we will have to get our brakes into Tip top condition for next years MOT!

Perhaps John may like to make further comment?

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 31 years

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 11 Jul 2013 00:07

Fortunately we don't have that nonsense here. So long as my handbrake will hold my car on my steep driveway while I get out to put planks under it for ramps when I want to get under the car, I'm happy.[8D]

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 11 Jul 2013 08:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> ... tester suggested that the changes in the test criteria even on "classic" cars will mean that more attention will be paid on brake Balance
- meaning that we will have to get our brakes into Tip top condition for next years MOT! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> We've been living with that regulation/test for decades, it's not such a hard test to pass
- provided your handbrake system is in a well maintained (= as new!) condition...

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I made some simple extensions to fit on the levers. They give the lever a completely different feel,
and give a big improvement to the braking. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I had new longer lever arms made up. Doesn't look so 'aftermarket'/'afterthought'/'owner quick fix' as add-ons do...
From the figures you can make your own force calculations...

My two 1980 Wedges...

Anonymous

Handbrake setup

Handbrake setup

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