Anonymous

worth repairing?

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
sonscar
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 488
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

worth repairing?

Postby sonscar » 03 Jun 2013 16:15

New member and first post so be kind please.I have "inherited" my sons 1980/81? drophead tr7 after he has worn it out.He had it 3 years and I maintained it in as much as I got it mobile again when it broke,which was surprisingly rare(camchain jumping sprockets and 8 new valves being most serious).As an old car enthusiast I am reluctant to scrap it but after a fairly thorough inspection and some internet searching it would appear that the cost of repair panels is so vast that they alone are more expensive than what most tr7's are not selling for.I have spent some time thinking and am going to replace one of the sills first and then see if it is worth continuing,and try to buy no other parts unless there is no other way.Wish me luck.Steve...

saabfast
TRiffic
Posts: 1936
Joined: 03 Feb 2006 08:17
Location: Bexhill-on-Sea

Postby saabfast » 03 Jun 2013 17:56

Welcome to the forum Steve, you will get plenty of encouragement and advice here.
BUT...restoring almost any old car costs far more than it will be worth when done (with the possible exception of an original E type). It can only be done for the experience, interest and sense of achievement (after much frustration).
If you look up jclay's posts there is a link at the bottom to an original workshop manual which should help. Post any problems, people here have done virtually everything.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC
Image

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8917
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 03 Jun 2013 18:49

We're all kind here.[8D] If there is much rust (as is common in ungaraged UK cars) it may cost more than a better car to start with, looking at it in a pure dollars and cents perspective. It may be a donor parts car for something better (seems many neighbourhoods are particular to having such hanging around where Mrs. Marpole of the Constantly Flowering Society can see it). If it's a special model or of sentimental value or you just enjoy working at it, then have at it. These cars are not for the collector but for the fun of the drive and having something that bring back a memory, either yours our the stranger that walks up to you to tell you his.

Every one here is willing to help or give encouragement if help is out of their purview.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
Image

Hasbeen
TRemendous
Posts: 6474
Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:32
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Hasbeen » 03 Jun 2013 23:43

Hi Steve & welcome. I say go for it. The only way you get the car you really want, & know it is really good, is do it your self.

many years back I bought a long retired rally 7 & a spares car for not much by Oz standard. It was to be for my son. It was rust free, but much dented, with a gearbox & diff in fair condition, but not much else. After a year, & about $5000, [about the price for a reasonable 7 in Oz], I had a pretty good car, that served me well for 11 years, & 60,000+ kilometers.

Recently it got air conditioning fitted, a bare metal paint job, & a new engine, with most of the good bits available.

I spent $16,000 on a car that is worth about $6000, if any one wants it. However I now have a beautiful car which should serve me for many more years.

I consider my $16000 is equivalent to depreciation over those 11 years, & is less than $1500 a year. That is damn cheep motoring, & so much more fun than a shopping trolley would have been.

Hasbeen

silverseven
TRemendous
Posts: 4451
Joined: 11 Dec 2003 23:44
Location: Canada
Contact:

Postby silverseven » 04 Jun 2013 00:43

I like your thinking Hasbeen , it's a mantra I use often with my clients, concerning car repairs. (when I think about then, my seven really hasn't cost me much at all !)

Hey Steve ,welcome to the site !
So do you have any pics of the old gal for us to look over ???

Ron.
ImageImageImage

jclay (RIP 2018)
TRemendous
Posts: 6027
Joined: 08 Jul 2006 17:13
Location: USA

Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 04 Jun 2013 00:47

links at the bottom

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

sonscar
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 488
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

Postby sonscar » 04 Jun 2013 04:39

Thanks for the encouragement.I am no stranger to rusty cars owning an MGBGT for 27 years,Austin Healey sprite for 20 years and an MGBV8 roadster for 10 years and several classic minis one of which I traded my son for the TR7.The redeeming factor with this car is that it is essentially free to start with and is already on my driveway and also everything works,but after the mg,s and mini I guess I have been cosseted with the price availability and quality of repair panels.Still a man needs a hobby so Press ON..Steve

john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby john 215 » 04 Jun 2013 05:10

Hi Steve,

[:D] WELCOME TO THE BEST TR7 / 8 FORUM IN THE WORLD EVER [8D]


Have a look at some of the 'Blogs' give you some insperation of what can be achieved with a car less than perfect -

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=16

Plenty of rust on 'sevens' Blog -

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... Terms=weld

Good luck and hope to see some pictures soon,

Cheers John

ImageImageImage Image
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

sonscar
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 488
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

Postby sonscar » 07 Jun 2013 07:08

Imagetrial pic.Image

sonscar
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 488
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

Postby sonscar » 07 Jun 2013 07:29

Image.Image.Image

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8917
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 07 Jun 2013 14:00

Get out the angle grinder, sandblaster, pneumatic chisel, spot welder drill bit, and MIG welder. Get ready to order some panels. Let the fun begin.
[:p]


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
Image

tr7jim
Wedgista
Posts: 1144
Joined: 04 Nov 2003 19:47
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby tr7jim » 07 Jun 2013 18:56

Steve,

Paul got a shell on another thread, with V5c its a fhc but could be a good option to make one out of two?

Jim

sydney.wedgehead
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 343
Joined: 20 Jan 2012 13:52
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby sydney.wedgehead » 07 Jun 2013 19:25

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sonscar</i>

Image.Image.Image
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Steve, that just looks tragic.

If it was me I'd look for a better shell.

Owen

sonscar
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 488
Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

Postby sonscar » 01 Jul 2013 13:54

Thanks for the encouragement?I have restored far worse and have moved the offending heap of rust into my garage and purchased 2 new heritage sills.Apart from the legality of using a 2nd hand shell(reregistering as Q plate VIC losing the original registration ETC)if everyone did this there would be no cars left and sooner rather than later you would have yours stolen to be broken for its parts(new shell?)Undeterred I will start work very soon and will probably post a few pictures.What size is preferred for pictures?.

Hasbeen
TRemendous
Posts: 6474
Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:32
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Hasbeen » 01 Jul 2013 15:03

Having just reread your original post, & realized you have already done a head job on a 7, you are almost in professional class. Just a water pump replacement to go for your ticket.

While you are mucking with body work, pay special attention to the attachment points for the trailing arms & radius rods. Both are a weak point, & if rusty become doubtful quite quickly.

Have fun.

Hasbeen

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 301 guests

cron