Dash out again

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 18 Jun 2013 17:29

I have now got car up on jacks

disconnected the green/black wire from tank and gauge still reading full

so disconnected the block at the foot well and put in a temp wire from there to the tank bypassing the wire going from the block to the tank

still reading full [V]

what next??

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Beans · Postby **Beans** » 18 Jun 2013 19:59

Well ... looking at the various botch repairs and Scotch connectors I fear for you [8)]
Time for an even more methodical approach, as in getting the multi meter out and check every wire ..

Been there done that (many moons ago) [B)]

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1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
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stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 18 Jun 2013 20:03

only one Scotch lock and has now been replaced by a good joint and heat shrink.

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stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 19 Jun 2013 05:12

what are the other wires on the sender ?

I take it :

1. earth

2. fuel light

3. gauge

???

tonight I am going to put a wire from the connector at the top of the dash

strait to the tank replacing the green/black wire,

hopefully this will make the gauge read correct, showing the gauge and sender are ok.

do you agree?

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john 215 · Postby **john 215** » 19 Jun 2013 05:35

Hi Stevie,

Make sure you completely disconnect the green/black wire, if you just put a jumper wire to effectiley run along side then the electrickery will still find the easy path to earth via the green / black wire.

With the sender disconnected and you put a ohm's meter down the green/ black wire up at the dash and to earth I assume you get a circuit ?

Glad you got rid of that ' work of the devil fire starter ' scotch lock, bl88dy things should be banned !!
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Stag76 · Postby **Stag76** » 19 Jun 2013 08:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">disconnected the green/black wire from tank and gauge still reading full

so disconnected the block at the foot well and put in a temp wire from there to the tank bypassing the wire going from the block to the tank

still reading full

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This may suggest 2 faults...the green/black wire earthing somewhere (you could disconnect both ends and then check resistance with a meter between earth and either end of the wire) and the sender unit.

Is it running the battery down with the ignition switched off. There should be no 12v supply to the gauge if the ignition is in the off position.

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 19 Jun 2013 16:03

Found this today two wires going in and out of it fixed

What is it?

I wish I had more time as I have only been getting 1 hour a night to try this due to family commitments ( think that is why I cant get my head around it .

anyway tonight I jacked the car up in the garage tonight so I can keep it in the air to work on

put a cable on the tank and attached the other end to connecter on top of dash going strait to gauge.

fuel light came on and the gauge staid at empty right off the gauge ( considering there is only about 1/2 gallon in there that should be correct

so will try further down 

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DNK · Postby **DNK** » 19 Jun 2013 16:29

Some kind of resistor for the brake warning switch?

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

windy one · Postby **windy one** » 19 Jun 2013 17:30

[quote]Originally posted by stevie_a

[teal][b]Found this today two wires going in and out of it fixed
What is it? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I believe it is a interference suppressor for the radio/speaker system.

Johnny

DNK · Postby **DNK** » 19 Jun 2013 17:35

Wrong color wiring??

Isn't radio White/pink?

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 20 Jun 2013 18:32

I don't know if I am more confused now or when I started...[V]

treble checked the wire from the gauge all the way down to the connector in the passenger foot well.

I have snipped the wire as it comes out of that connector

put in a jumper wire from there to the tank put the ignition on

and the gauge does not move (I now have 20L of fuel in)

If I connect the snipped wire gauge goes to full even though it is not connected at the tank.

but why if I put the jumper wire in the circuit does not read anything?

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stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 20 Jun 2013 20:44

Had to put the car back together ready to take my daughter to her prom tomorrow night

I am thinking the wiring is ok and the gauge or the float is a fault

now I have 20L of fuel in the car i drove it tonight to see what happens

and when I go round a right hand corner the fuel light flickers ( which use to happen just under 1/4 tank

if this is happening does this mean the sender and float is working properly ?

and could the gauge it's self be getting the earth?

So ,any questions

But when I was out hood down getting dark was fantastic...[:D]

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john 215 · Postby **john 215** » 21 Jun 2013 05:00

Hi,

Sorry missed your call mate [:I]

If you get your continutiy tester, connect one end to the wire at the dash, one wire on a good earth, then with sender disconnected, do you get a circuit ? That will test for short to earth on this wire.

Does sound like a gauge or circuit board on the back of dash messing around if that wire good.

Hope all goes well tonight in 'chaffeur' job tonight

Everything else fails will take my multi meter too Billing in a couple of weeks and will have a look there. Sure got a old gauge and sender somewhere.

Oh and 'thing' under your speaker cover is a diode, look carefully got that symbol on it

Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Stag76 · Postby **Stag76** » 21 Jun 2013 07:28

I think you have 2 faults...the wire in the loom (snipped one) is shorting to earth, and the sender is flaky. Test the resistance between the end you snipped and earth with the tank end disconnected - it should be infinite. If it is not, it is shorting to earth. Test the resistance between the connector on the sender and earth with the snipped wire disconnected - it should show some resistance. If it is infinite, it may be broken, or have a bad earth (most likely). There should be 3 terminals on the sender - Gauge, light and earth.

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

Vegas_M · Postby **Vegas_M** » 21 Jun 2013 13:37

It is a diode.

A diode restricts current to a single direction. The symbol on the cover shows the direction (tip of the triangle) current flow is able to go. Diodes are typically used when you have multiple switches to activate a device.

The TR7/8 uses them with the AC fans. You will normally find them mounted inline by the AC relays behind the LH headlight. In the workshop manual, 1980 TR7 USA with AC wiring diagram you will find the symbol (although of course it isn't numbered) left of the AC relay #115.

What you have is something that has been customized, so you have to trace it out to determine what it does.

M.

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