Anonymous

Ohhhhh noooos , temp going up!

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
paulheritage
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 429
Joined: 20 May 2009 21:28
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby paulheritage » 15 Jun 2013 17:29

I had a similar problem that originally turned out to be a blocked heater matrix. Replaced that the temp ran fine again. I then decided to put in a new instrument pod (later Solihull one) and the temp gauge went almost to full after a few minutes. Swapped the old gauge back from the original pod and that shows normal again.

Cheers Paul,

1976 TR7 FHC (ACG 3115)
1977 TR7V8 3.9 FHC rally car (ACG 35005)
1980 TR7V8 3.5 DHC

www.TR7.co.uk

trickyx12000
Rust Hunter
Posts: 197
Joined: 01 Aug 2011 12:44
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby trickyx12000 » 15 Jun 2013 23:24

I've got to the point where I just treat the temp gauge as a guide. as we all know (and if not here it is) the gauge and sender/sensor work on resistance... cold engine/sensor.. high resistance, and the warmer the engine/sensor gets the low the resistance, the higher the gauge reads.
so a bad connection on the sender will give a lower temp reading.. a good connection a higher reading..
the gauge it self is very easy to move the needle on the shaft...if you have the covers off the clocks...so changing the reading..

below is a link to a site where some one has done some tests on the two.. but as a rough guide get your self a 20ohm resistor and connect it to earth and your temp sender/sensor wire. the temp gauge should be just touching the high mark. if not you probably need to move the needle on the shaft of the gauge.

I've got the twin fan set up with twin speed and the switch in the rad, when the fans cut in to high speed it brings a light on the dash...( the oxygen sensor light top right) I have remove the oxygen sensor legend and replace with fan. this took some alteration of the circuit board behind the clocks as the light in the clock was looking for a switched natural. and the fans was switching a live. I also have a manual over ride switch for the fans. so with the temp gauge and the light I get two warnings of heating up... well that's if every thing works.!

http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab ... sender.htm

Sautie
Rust Hunter
Posts: 220
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 10:54
Location: South Africa
Contact:

Postby Sautie » 16 Jun 2013 06:37

Check with Rimmer Bros in the Uk they have the following Temp Senders.
3.5 L
Carb Cars
Air Con PRC6317
Non Air con GTR 108

EFi Cars
as above

3.9 L Air Con or non Air Con PRC 7918.

With my recent temperature problems I bought a couple of PRC6317 from them.

silverseven
TRemendous
Posts: 4451
Joined: 11 Dec 2003 23:44
Location: Canada
Contact:

Postby silverseven » 17 Jun 2013 00:42

thanks for the new info ....will get going on this next weekend.

Ron.
ImageImageImage

silverseven
TRemendous
Posts: 4451
Joined: 11 Dec 2003 23:44
Location: Canada
Contact:

Postby silverseven » 22 Jul 2013 01:16

Ok so it took about a month of on and off fiddling with the car , but all is finally well!

I decided to pull the cluster, and clean every contact I could get my hands on (Brasso is amazing stuff) It also gave me a chance to tiddy up a few details around the dash .....(from the book of Spyder [;)])
I then lubed everything up with dielectric grease and finally got the chance to spend the time to reassemble today.
The gauge parked itself 3/8ths right where she lived before and everything stayed perfect on my shakedown lakeside run. Even my dash lights are all working now!!!

I am so stoked , now a little wash and wax and I'm off to the british car week next weekend [8D] !!

Ron.
ImageImageImage

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 369 guests