Which Grease??

[REPLIC8]

What grease should I use in my rear wheel bearings. I've just had a set fail completely after 15 miles, so I've ordered some NOS ones to replace them. I packed the knackered bearings with "Comma Bearing Grease" using a grease gun when they were fitted, but when I've pulled the halfshafts out today the grease has turned into what looks like runny Vaseline?? Should I be using a special thicker grease?

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
[img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/175-1.jpg[/img][/img] [img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/pics005.jpg[/img][/img]

[sydney.wedgehead]

I've always used the Castrol High Temperature grease for front and rear bearings and not had an unexpected failure.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiong ... Id=7036194

[saabfast]

I normally use Castrol LM which is a high melting point lithium grease for bearings. I am surprised there was any problem with the Comma product which is similar. Comma are generally quite respected with some tie in with Mobil (they sell Mobil oils on their website).

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[trickyx12000]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I've just had a set fail completely after 15 miles,<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">.
sorry but it sounds like you are doing some thing wrong! you are aware you can over fill a bearing!

[FI Spyder]

Not over fill a bearing so much as over fill the hub. Grease can then be squeezed out by expansion. Old grease should be cleaned out (hub and old bearing if reused). Don't mix greases as odd things can happen such as liquefaction.

I've used green Quaker state (in years past) and some red stuff recently. Not sure of the name off hand and the cats are sleeping on my legs and so can't get up to go look.[:o)]



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[trickyx12000]

over packing a bearing.... below is lifted straight of the internet.... you can make your own mind up!<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Excessive heat!

A couple of paragraphs above I said that over lubrication would cause high heat. What is the problem with over lubrication? If a little lubrication were good, wouldn't a lot be better? Not really! Think about it this way. Picture yourself on a hot day walking along the beach. You go into the water up to your ankles, and as you walk along rapidly you feel cool and refreshed. Now walk rapidly in water up to your waist and you see the problem. It takes a lot of energy to get through the same temperature water and this would make you hot and fatigued instead of cool and refreshed

It's the same thing with lubrication. Too high a lubrication level and the bearing will consume energy as it plows through the lubricant. This energy will show up as heat added to the lubricant causing it to first lose its viscosity and then the lubricant will begin to form varnish and coke as it gets hotter. Varnish and coke are another name for solids.

The problem with grease and oil lubricants is their low specific heat and their poor conductivity. Some of the synthetics are better, but they have a temperature limit that is still too low for many pumping applications. It is for this same reason that we do not recommend putting any type oil between dual seals if we can avoid it.

The SKF bearing company claims that uncontaminated grease and oil has a useful life of thirty years at 30°C (86°F) They further state that the life of grease and oil is cut in half for each 10°C (18°F) rise in temperature. That means that at 100°C (212°F) oil and grease have a useful life of only 90 days. Here are your lubrication options:

Grease packed
•Grease is hard to change because the usual method is to pump grease into a grease fitting and let the new grease push out the old grease. This method guarantees the bearing will be over lubricated.
•The only proper way to grease a bearing is to hand pack it full, but not the cavity where it is located. As the bearing heats up some of the grease will leak into the cavity reducing the amount of lubrication in the bearing.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[FI Spyder]

Basically what I said. The bearing is packed full but surrounding area (hub) should not be full. Bearing packers pack bearing full as does doing it by hand. The other part is not to have the hub (surrounding area) full. Of course if you have a grease nipple arrangement (like I suspect Andy has) there would be no voids.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[trickyx12000]

shall we start again!
"you are aware you can over fill a bearing!"

for example if you have a bearing which has seals...say a 6204 2rs it is possible to clean it out if you pop the seals off and re packet it with too much grease and replace the seals.. this bearing may or may not fail due to much grease with in the bearing which can not escape due to the seals. which I believe would make the statement..

"you are aware you can over fill a bearing!" correct...

now you can also repack a bearing full of grease, but if the area that the bearing is used in has a void for the excess grease to escape into its is less likely for that bearing to fail due to over filling. .
but the statement "you are aware you can over fill a bearing!" is still correct.

also if you repack a bearing full of grease, and the void surrounding the bearing is also full of grease the bearing may or may not fail due to being over filled with grease,
which also makes the statement "you are aware you can over fill a bearing!" correct.

a bearing may also fail due to incorrect fitment or being under more stress than the bearing was designed to take which still makes the statement still correct, but not the cause..

[Beans]

Agree with the possible damage by over packing a bearing with grease. But 15 miles shouldn't ruin an over packed bearing!

I'd suggest checking the supplied bearings (were they the corrct type, fitted correctly etc.)
There have been some problems with incorrect (5 speed) half shaft bearings recently.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[REPLIC8]

As far as I know they weren't over packed, they were fitted to the shafts for me by a local classic car garage on a press. I assume you can't over press them? I bought them from Rimmers and they came in a plastic bag with no manufacturer name. I'm pretty sure I did it all OK according to the manual. They felt pretty slack when they were first fitted & just got worse.[:(]

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
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[kstrutt1]

you can easil destroy the bearing presing them on, they must be pressed on using the centre race of the bearing, if they are pressed on by the outer outer race they will be brinelled and fail very quickly.

kevin

[RadioGuy]

A wheel bearing is not going to fail in 15 miles due to too much grease... I don't think this failure is grease related.

Something is mis-aligned, damaged during the installation or faulty from the factory.

Both bearings failed in 15 miles...Something is/was really screwed up for BOTH to fail that quickly.

I suspect bad bearings...They certainly could have been brinelled.

Were the races cracked?
Did they feel rough when you turned them by hand?
How did they fail?


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC http://tinyurl.com/7rkonrx

[REPLIC8]

They were pressed on the shafts in conjunction with the retaining collar which should only put pressure on the inner collar of the bearing. Primed with decent bearing grease according to the manual, but they never felt very smooth on initial installation, especially the side that failed worse. My MOT inspector also thought the rear drums were out of round according to the brake testing machine, I'm assuming this wouldn't cause the problem but I'm going to get them skimmed anyway. I'll just have to get the new ones fitted when they turn up & hope they work OK.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
[img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/175-1.jpg[/img][/img] [img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/pics005.jpg[/img][/img]

[REPLIC8]

Got my halfshafts back today with NOS bearings fitted. Installed everything same as before. They have a minute about of end float compared to the last ones, been out for a 20 mile test drive and all is OK. The chap who fitted both sets for me said the play in one was about 2.5mm of end float but no wear, the other one had failed completely for some reason and the shaft had be running on the end plate! I think it was just a crap cheapo bearing. Hopefully all is OK now and I can get packed ready for Billing. [:)]

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
[img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/175-1.jpg[/img][/img] [img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/pics005.jpg[/img][/img]

[john 215]

Hi Andy,

Great new's mate [8D], as said cheap chocolate bearings [V]

See you at Billing

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!