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TR7 coupe on Ebay

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
paulheritage
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Postby paulheritage » 31 May 2013 22:10

Welcome to the Java green clan!

Cheers Paul,

1976 TR7 FHC (ACG 3115)
1977 TR7V8 3.9 FHC rally car (ACG 35005)
1980 TR7V8 3.5 DHC

www.Triumph-Cars.co.uk

Burt124
Wedgling
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Postby Burt124 » 02 Jun 2013 18:20

Still working on this TR.

When I took it for a drive I put just under half a tank of fuel in it. The next morning a lot of it was on the floor of the workshop so I have been ejected from the garage temporarily, they are not keen on fire risks! The car is on my drive now.

The problem seems to be perforations in the metal fuel line that drops down from the tank. It is a bit difficult to see because it is covered in black Waxoyl or something similar. I am going to replace both metal fuel lines with new ones.

I have set up the carbs today though and it runs well now. It was a bit lean.

Will it get an MOT this week? I hope so!

sydney.wedgehead
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Postby sydney.wedgehead » 02 Jun 2013 18:46

It's worth doing a thorough inspection of the tank as it's very common for them to rust out and perforate along the front bottom edge of the tank.

This is particularly common with cars that have not seen use in decades as the water sits in the bottom with whatever fuel floating above it.

FI Spyder
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ULM 111R TR7

Postby FI Spyder » 03 Jun 2013 13:19

Rare for the tank not to reach rusting stage first. Rather than fix one problem and wait for another tomorrow I would address the system as a whole. New lines (if they are indeed leaking), new rubber lines, take out tank and either seal it (POR-15 system) to fix problem forever or replace it with new one (delay it for another 30 years). Keep your gas tank filled. No air, no condensation.

Burt124
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Postby Burt124 » 25 Jun 2013 17:53

Finally got the TR7 on the MOT ramp today!

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I would like to report that it passed but; sadly, it didn't. Nothing too bad, and not bad at all considering it was last MOT'd 16 years ago.

It failed on:

1. Wiper blade (easy).

2. Battery insecure. I'm not sure what the mechanism that holds the battery in place is called but it wasn't obvious where the hooks attached to the car. Need to have a further look into this.

3. Lower steering column universal joint and upper universal joint have excessive play. Parts will be ordered tomorrow.

4. Nearside track road end damaged. I'll order replacements for both sides tomorrow.

5. Nearside lower suspension arm ball joint damaged. Order tomorrow.

6. Exhaust has major leak of gasses. Can't say I noticed this at all. There is a stainless system fitted, we will tweak it.

7.CO emissions high. Need to adjust carbs again I've made it too rich.

8. Rear service and park brake below efficiency. The brakes are all new, looks like it needs a bit of a run to bed in.

Hopefully all the parts I need will be with me in a couple of days then it will be done.

A bit tighter than I would like for Billing on the 7th!

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 27 Jun 2013 05:11

Hi,

I suggest that the park brake problem may be linked to the pivot point on the rear axle. The bushes in the lever rot away and the whole pivot seizes up a bit.Take it off, wire brush it all and add new bushes. You need one and the part number is FAM320

Jolyon


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TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 27 Jun 2013 07:35

The battery clamp should be a metal strip shaped to fit over the edge of the battery, with 2 J rods with retaining nuts.

The J rods hook into a hole on the suspension turret on the left side, and a hole down below the wiper motor on the right.

With the emissions, check the timing as well if you are having trouble getting it right.

Tony
ImageImage
<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

FI Spyder
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ULM 111R TR7

Postby FI Spyder » 27 Jun 2013 13:17

As Tony says. It requires the use of two unequal length of J clamps (only equal lengths come with a kit). You can buy just the J clamps to get your correct unequal lengths. This will leave you a matched pair of unequal lengths for your other TR7 or your friends car. In picture you only see the longer J clamp connected to turret as the other one that goes to firewall is hidden in picture. I added some heat shrink to the J's to protect the paint where it grabs.

silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 28 Jun 2013 01:48

I'm not so sure about the unequal lengths of the j-clamps ..... mine are both identical, and have been with the car since day one [;)]
On my car, one goes into the dollar (loony) sized hole on the turret, and the other in the same sized hole at the firewall.

Ron.
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supercass
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Postby supercass » 28 Jun 2013 10:05

Mine have been with the car since day one and whilst I don't have the car in front of me I'm sure they are both the same length. supercass

FI Spyder
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ULM 111R TR7

Postby FI Spyder » 28 Jun 2013 14:14

As do mine but that necessitates the turret J clamp being twice as long (approximately) as the firewall clamp. No place to hook them if they were equal length. Interesting. Different stampings?

silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 29 Jun 2013 02:37

I'll snap you a pic one day when I'm out near the car ....

Ron.
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