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Front hub bearings

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RJS
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Postby RJS » 27 Apr 2013 00:02

I suspect there would be demand for a front hub with a 4X100 lug pattern.

You will not get rich on doing parts for a rare car, but it can help pay for your triumph addiction (wood dash kits have helped pay for many parts on my car).

Rob

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 27 Apr 2013 07:52

Morley, no I worked on Post Office Telephones back then and rallying was only the hobby that I spent ALL my money on.

I met Colin a few times but didn't know him personally> The sight of him hurling a works Imp through the Welsh forests with the engine howling is one that stays with you. Absolute magic.
I had an Imp myself at the time but couldn't match his style.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

Image Image

Morley Faulkner
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Postby Morley Faulkner » 27 Apr 2013 21:29

Hi Again,
Thanks for the photo's John but still can not make out the bearing number.
RJS I will be using 4 x 114.3 PCD on my hub as you can then take your pick of most the Asian import wheels. Its easy enough to drill out to what ever PCD you prefer.

Now back to the bearing I have been through my bearing books and reckon the one to use would be:-

replacement ET-LM 72849/LM72810 22.225mm i/d x47mm o/d x 15.5mm wide Original ET-LM 11749/LM11710 17.682mm i/d x39.992mmx13.843mm wide

will go and see my bearing supplier tomorrow and get him to confirm or advise on which one to use. Will keep you posted. This means you would need a sleeve on stub axle

Thanks for your reply Russ. I was a member of a Country club called the Avonside on the Cov-Leamington Rd that seem to attract a lot of the racing and rallying fraternity at the time. I left in 1967 for greener pastures.

frankman
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Postby frankman » 29 Apr 2013 15:39

Hi Morley

Now I belive is:

LM11749/LM11710 Timken
d: 17.462 inside
D: 39.878 outside
B: 13.843 width
T: 10.668 width

Go for:

05068/05175 Timken
d: 17.462 inside
D: 44.450 outside
B: 15.494 width
T: width

If you are producing aluminum hub's would make it a useful to make holes from disc brakes with which a standard disk could be mounted?

for example: ImageImage both 58,1mm deep

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

Benzo
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Postby Benzo » 29 Apr 2013 16:00

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Morley Faulkner</i>

Hi Again,
Thanks for the photo's John but still can not make out the bearing number.
RJS I will be using 4 x 114.3 PCD on my hub as you can then take your pick of most the Asian import wheels. Its easy enough to drill out to what ever PCD you prefer.

Now back to the bearing I have been through my bearing books and reckon the one to use would be:-

replacement ET-LM 72849/LM72810 22.225mm i/d x47mm o/d x 15.5mm wide Original ET-LM 11749/LM11710 17.682mm i/d x39.992mmx13.843mm wide

will go and see my bearing supplier tomorrow and get him to confirm or advise on which one to use. Will keep you posted. This means you would need a sleeve on stub axle

Thanks for your reply Russ. I was a member of a Country club called the Avonside on the Cov-Leamington Rd that seem to attract a lot of the racing and rallying fraternity at the time. I left in 1967 for greener pastures.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have one of Hamilton Classics TR7 Alloy hubs in the boot of my car, i can sold up the uprated bearing number if you still require it?



Image

Currently back to Basics with my BMW V8 Engined Build.

Morley Faulkner
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Postby Morley Faulkner » 30 Apr 2013 06:50

Frankman,

Thanks a million, great, went back to my bearing supplier, and the reason we did not pick that one was that the cup is readily available but the cone is almost extinct. However he did have 5 in stock so I grabbed two of them. This comes with a cost at over twice the price of the ones I had selected but not having a sleeve is a bonus.Now I have all the necessary bits I can complete my CAD drawing and As I have already purchased the aluminum billets it's all go.
Will look at Ford disc once I have done first pair for my car.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 30 Apr 2013 08:00

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Morley Faulkner</i>

... This comes with a cost at over twice the price of the ones I had selected ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Wouldn't it be better if you'd stick to the original bearings?
Readily available, cheap and if you have good quality ones they do last.

It took some real effort and mileage to get them this far [:D]

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Morley Faulkner
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Postby Morley Faulkner » 30 Apr 2013 08:41

Beans,

If we all did that we would never improve anything.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 30 Apr 2013 12:35

I put my effort in other improvements [;)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

frankman
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Postby frankman » 30 Apr 2013 13:46

[:)]
That's what I think everyone does something well and together we have good solutions! Unfortunately, I'm not a "mechanic" so I can turn (mill,drill) parts, and especially not draw :-)

Oh yeah if any of you, will make the rear Engine plate of aluminum I have a dxf file.. just let me know (for free :-)

Morley: It would be good to make a hub with the brake conversion - not this donut style..
I've been searching and found almost no deep discs that would fit over the hub! would be about 78mm deep the stroke could be reduced by the upper thickness to keep the (ET / IS track width) Like Brembo 09.3949.10 (BMW) or 09.5034.20 but have alook @ http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_Disc_Catalogue/Catalogue_Search.aspx

The Hispec solution of Beans T'Kreng is super .. but I bring that not by the MFK (TÃœV, DMV)

By the way what means T'Kreng (carrion -aas??)[:D][:D]

Wheel studs http://www.mistertee.co.uk/7.html + http://www.raceways.co.uk/Wheel_studs.htm

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

about Ford Disc etc.

"Hi
the spacers are needed because as standard, the TR7 disc had a bizarrely deep 'top hat' or offset to align it in the caliper. Other proprietary discs, mainly from Ford, are adapted to fit, but they have a shallow offset and the spacers solve 2 problems:
1. they replace the offset depth lost as above
2. they are drilled/machined so that on the outside face, they match the mounting dimensions of the original disc on the original hub; on the outside face they match those of the replacement disc, which will be Ford and totally different (just like with road wheels); 247mm discs from a RS2000, MkII Granada or Capri 2.8 were/are the common components.

You also need a matching caliper, in this case the Ford M16 - as fitted to the above Ford models - or Princess caliper. Luckily both are a straight replacement bolt-in for the original caliper (so it didn't take long for the Ford rally fiends to rob most of the scrapped Princess/Ambassador cars of their calipers!). So you end up with a matching disc/caliper set-up, with a bolt-on disc/hub spacer to make it fit on the TR7 and you gain a much more powerful, fade-free braking system. Also you can select vented discs (the M16 or Princess calipers then need spacers fitted accordingly) OEM or EBC etc. and a whole range of pads from fast-road to full-race.

The simplest solution is to just buy a complete kit - IIRC you also need different brake hoses? - and S&S supply non-vented ones @ £300 or vented @ £400, or Robsport and Rimmers. I mention these just in case, although your posting suggests you already have or can obtain the "Capri 2.8" bits other than the disc spacers - these also are available, e.g. £85 from S&S.

From my experience, you can fit a 260mm vented disc, with the Princess caliper, inside a 13" aftermarket alloy, e.g. Revolution 4-spoke or the Minilite replica from them or Compomotive - NOT the OEM wheels. Rimmers recommend minimum 14" wheels with the Princess caliper though, Compomotive can advise on wheel/caliper clearance. (The M16 caliper should fit inside the OEM wheels IIRC). This 260mm disc comes from the original 2WD Cosworth Sierra (Ford again!) and fits beautifully inside the Princess caliper, i.e. the whole pad fits on the disc exactly against the disc's outside periphery, whereas on the 247mm disc, as above, I found the pads were overhanging. You would have to get the 260mm disc centre bore slightly relieved to fit the spacers, i.e I think this is also done on the 247mm discs which come with the kits. This will form a mightily powerful brake set-up for road and track day use.

Ford 'classic' parts are of course still widely available and I would recommend Rally Design in Kent. They do the spacer kits for both the M16 and Princess calipers and discs, pads etc. They could confirm that the Sierra disc has the same offset as the 247mm disc, if this option interest you.

Just a note of warning - the MkII Grandads were notorious for warping their 247mm discs and although the TR7 is of course much lighter, if you are going to enjoy the extra braking power , I recommend that after parking up, you move the car a 1/2 turn of the wheels after a couple of minutes to prevent heat transfer in to just one part of the discs

Cheers
Alan "

Benzo
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Postby Benzo » 30 Apr 2013 15:33

Or buy universal discs from the likes of rally design, in the diameter and thickness you require, and then alloy bells to create the same offset as the TR7 disc?

Image

Currently back to Basics with my BMW V8 Engined Build.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 30 Apr 2013 16:57

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frankman</i>

... By the way what means 't Kreng ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bitch or Shrew [}:)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

frankman
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Postby frankman » 01 May 2013 09:33

.. hahaha Bitch or Shrew [:D]

@ Benzo You are right but the alloy Bells are not admitted..I had to have a second set shocks (Front Suspension) If I were an aluminum hub and spray it black .. so look as original, 260mm disc with Princess caliper ... that they do not notice (but without donut)

But we can leave old cars check (30years) for 6 years, it has to look original... or every 2 years Check - You see the point...

All make Alloy hubs like original, but why not like Morley .. development -

Moley make me some with an integrated Bell (bean type) in one piece .. ! I just need the disc and the caliper :-) little weight, no screws are stuck ..[8)]

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

Beans
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Postby Beans » 01 May 2013 15:54

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frankman</i>

... Morley make me some with an integrated Bell (Beans' type) in one piece ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The front brakes on 't Kreng consist of universal vented discs with alloy bells
These bells are machined to fit the original hub ...

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Morley Faulkner
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Postby Morley Faulkner » 01 May 2013 22:43

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i38 ... C00433.jpg

I have posted these photos to explain the logic behind my project. As you can see the replacement rotor 'Toyota Supra' does not have a dome as the TR7 one has. To compensate for this the kit supplier provides a spacer hub (2.1kg). This spacer has to be bolted to the existing hub then has to be further bolted to the rotor.
When I looked at it I thought well as I have to re-drill the wheel stud holes to 114.3 PCD I may as well make the whole thing from a single billet of aluminum. I am open to any better suggestions, but please don't knock me for trying.

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