[:)]
That's what I think everyone does something well and together we have good solutions! Unfortunately, I'm not a "mechanic" so I can turn (mill,drill) parts, and especially not draw
Oh yeah if any of you, will make the rear Engine plate of aluminum I have a dxf file.. just let me know (for free
Morley: It would be good to make a hub with the brake conversion - not this donut style..
I've been searching and found almost no deep discs that would fit over the hub! would be about 78mm deep the stroke could be reduced by the upper thickness to keep the (ET / IS track width) Like Brembo 09.3949.10 (BMW) or 09.5034.20 but have alook @
http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_Disc_Catalogue/Catalogue_Search.aspx
The Hispec solution of Beans T'Kreng is super .. but I bring that not by the MFK (TÃœV, DMV)
By the way what means T'Kreng (carrion -aas??)[:D][:D]
Wheel studs
http://www.mistertee.co.uk/7.html +
http://www.raceways.co.uk/Wheel_studs.htm
Hello from Switzerland
Frank
about Ford Disc etc.
"Hi
the spacers are needed because as standard, the TR7 disc had a bizarrely deep 'top hat' or offset to align it in the caliper. Other proprietary discs, mainly from Ford, are adapted to fit, but they have a shallow offset and the spacers solve 2 problems:
1. they replace the offset depth lost as above
2. they are drilled/machined so that on the outside face, they match the mounting dimensions of the original disc on the original hub; on the outside face they match those of the replacement disc, which will be Ford and totally different (just like with road wheels); 247mm discs from a RS2000, MkII Granada or Capri 2.8 were/are the common components.
You also need a matching caliper, in this case the Ford M16 - as fitted to the above Ford models - or Princess caliper. Luckily both are a straight replacement bolt-in for the original caliper (so it didn't take long for the Ford rally fiends to rob most of the scrapped Princess/Ambassador cars of their calipers!). So you end up with a matching disc/caliper set-up, with a bolt-on disc/hub spacer to make it fit on the TR7 and you gain a much more powerful, fade-free braking system. Also you can select vented discs (the M16 or Princess calipers then need spacers fitted accordingly) OEM or EBC etc. and a whole range of pads from fast-road to full-race.
The simplest solution is to just buy a complete kit - IIRC you also need different brake hoses? - and S&S supply non-vented ones @ £300 or vented @ £400, or Robsport and Rimmers. I mention these just in case, although your posting suggests you already have or can obtain the "Capri 2.8" bits other than the disc spacers - these also are available, e.g. £85 from S&S.
From my experience, you can fit a 260mm vented disc, with the Princess caliper, inside a 13" aftermarket alloy, e.g. Revolution 4-spoke or the Minilite replica from them or Compomotive - NOT the OEM wheels. Rimmers recommend minimum 14" wheels with the Princess caliper though, Compomotive can advise on wheel/caliper clearance. (The M16 caliper should fit inside the OEM wheels IIRC). This 260mm disc comes from the original 2WD Cosworth Sierra (Ford again!) and fits beautifully inside the Princess caliper, i.e. the whole pad fits on the disc exactly against the disc's outside periphery, whereas on the 247mm disc, as above, I found the pads were overhanging. You would have to get the 260mm disc centre bore slightly relieved to fit the spacers, i.e I think this is also done on the 247mm discs which come with the kits. This will form a mightily powerful brake set-up for road and track day use.
Ford 'classic' parts are of course still widely available and I would recommend Rally Design in Kent. They do the spacer kits for both the M16 and Princess calipers and discs, pads etc. They could confirm that the Sierra disc has the same offset as the 247mm disc, if this option interest you.
Just a note of warning - the MkII Grandads were notorious for warping their 247mm discs and although the TR7 is of course much lighter, if you are going to enjoy the extra braking power , I recommend that after parking up, you move the car a 1/2 turn of the wheels after a couple of minutes to prevent heat transfer in to just one part of the discs
Cheers
Alan "