Gearbox repair

[nick]

I have purchased a used 5 speed gearbox and would like to open it for inspection before I install it in my 4 speed '76 car. What is the best way to keep the propshaft flange from rotating while attempting to break lose the nut? I have taken these off before but the gearbox was always attached to the engine. In this case, with the gearbox on the floor, I am anticipating problems.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[darrellw]

The usual method is a length of bar with holes to match up to a couple of the holes in the flange. Or an impact wrench.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

[FI Spyder]

I had a piece of 1/2 x 3 about 18" long. I drilled a hole in it to fit over the nut and allow a socket to fit in it. I then drilled holes to match the flange bolted it to the flange an bracing it on the ground with my foot, undid the nut. Can't recall if I used an air gun or not but probably. Used it to torque the nut back up. It was a piece of wood from a drawer I think and was strong enough. In other words use what handy.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[nick]

Making a hold down lever. Now why didn't I think of that. Thanks.

Next I started to look at how tall that clutch housing is. I've taken out the gearbox before but from the top along with the engine. It looks like I need at least two trolley jacks. One to support the engine and one to roll back and lower the gearbox. And then my jacks stands don't appear high enough for the clutch housing to clear the frame. I sure don't want to buy another trolley jack and 4 more jacks stands. That would be more than the cost of the gearbox[:(] What is the accepted method to get that lump out.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[FI Spyder]

I have jack stands that incorporate hydrolic jacks (got them from Costco $36 each on sale). They give a maximum 21" lift. To pull back the transmission I got an ATV scissor lift from Princess Auto for $40 on sale (like Harbor Freight in States). Put in on melamine board with castors, kind of T shaped to fit between the jack stand bases. A piece of stainless steel bolts to holes in the transmission and other end bolts to holes in the scissor lift to secure the transmission to lift. as you roll back the transmission you can lower it to clear the tunnel. Fully lowered the top of bell housing just clears a notch in the cars frame rails about half way back. A piece of wood under the bell housing keeps the transmission at the right angle.

The only tough part (other than reaching upper bell housing bolts/nuts) is getting the input shaft in the bearing, I had to bevel it with a Dremel to get it started.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[nick]

Very nice setup but for me to buy all those tools doesn't seem to be worth it. Of course as soon as I don't buy them I'll need then in sort order for another job. However, I am concerned about he the installation. The previous time I had both the engine and gearbox on the floor perfectly lined up and still had a time getting them to mate. I can just picture myself under the car struggling to get the 5 speed to go into place.

I'm down to removing the last 4 bolts in the clutch housing. I have the struts off because I replaced shocks, gaiters and spring pads. The car is also getting new ball joints all around. So with the struts off I'm thinking I just might drop the engine down. At this point all I have to do is remove radiator hoses, maybe the radiator and carb controls and just drop the whole thing attached to the cross frame.



[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC