Bushings

[RJS]

I purchased a set of bushings for my TR8. I have heard horror stories about getting the old ones out and the getting the new ones in.

Are there any good write ups out there for this process (photos are a big plus)?

If I have time, I might attempt to do the frontend this weekend.

Rob

[nick]

Depends on which type you are installing. The poly ones come apart so they are not a problem. I used the harder rubber ones and was able to do all the front ones myself with an arbor press. Some have had success with a vise. However, when it came to the rear I had problems. I managed to chew up the outside edges pretty badly. I think I got one or two done and gave up. Since the old ones looked pretty good I still have those new ones sitting in a box somewhere.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[RJS]

They are poly from the wedge shop. Says they are two piece (I have not looked yet to see how they separate).

I have never worked on the front suspension, so feel free to speak at a 5 year old level on this one.

[DNK]

Only 1 or 2 I could not do and took the pieces to a front end shop and they did it for free
This is removal only

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[Workshop Help]

Yes, as you boys say above, it's just the opposite of usual where getting the new ones in is the problem. In this case, it's getting the old ones out is where the sweat is.

Being a two piece design, slipping the new ones into place is very easy. I suggest the new ones be coated with a rubber grease to prevent squeaking and creaking, especially when cold.

Mildred Hargis

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Pressing out the old ones:

http://jclay.me/jclay/TR8_project.html#66

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[Cobber]

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">It's a mystery to me as to why anyone would bother with rubber bushes anymore when there are better lasting Poly bushes available these days.
Especially when most of the rubber stuff these days is poor quality rubbish from India.

The only descent brand of rubber bushes and engine mounts I can think of is Mackay Auto Rubber made here in Melbourne, and I'm not sure that they make much for the TR-7.
I have their engine mounts it the 2500 TC.

There may well be some other decent brands but I don't think they're sold here in Oz, so I wouldn't know who they are. </font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[FI Spyder]

When you grease the rear bushings (I use synthetic clear grease) it seals the bushing so it can be hard to press the two halves together as the trapped air prevents this. As someone suggested I drilled a hole in the side for the air to escape. Works.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[dursleyman]

Like Mildred says, your biggest problem will be getting the old ones out. I managed it with some sawn-off tubing of the right diameter,long bolts and combinations of washers but its a bit of a pain. You may also want to replace some of the bolts at the same time, a couple of mine stripped as they came out.

The polybushes are so much easier to install, they often come with a small sachet of silicone grease to lubricate and assist installtion.

If you are doing the front subframe as well you need to see Odds excellent photos - its a sticky subject on General Wedgie ChitChat.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[RJS]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

This is the kit I purchased, so I do have the subframe.
http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/products/Poly-Bushing-Kit-Complete-TR8-%26-TR7.html


I was thinking about doing the front control arms, and sway bar first. I have not thought much further out. I will have to look and see if it makes sense to do the subframe at the same time (this is my daily driver, so I has to be back on the road monday morning).

[HDRider]

I have been using my press to push the old ones out. It is very easy to do. My suggestion would be to take the arms to a machine shop and have them remove them. They should be able to do them in less than 15 minutes.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

[claypole1360]

Took mine to my local garage who usually tests my cars, he pushed the new ones in (hardened rubber bushes from S and s) with his mega press, but managed to mangle one up on it's way in. Another one was ordered and fitted on delivery, not a fun job, but he didn't charge me as long as I told nobody about his charity....oops.

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

1978 TR7V8 FHC
1968 Bond Equipe Sprint Car
1962 Herald Coupe 1200
2003 Peugeot 206 GTI
2003 Mondeo Diesel

[FI Spyder]

Another good reason to get poly, you can do it yourself. Besides the fact they last longer, are oil resistant, you can get coloured softer ones from UK/Australia or hard black poly from US (better for racing).



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[tr7sprint1]

Do the poly bushing require lubrication on a regular bases?






<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>
<h4><center>http://cliffstr7sprintconversion.blogspot.com/</center></h4>

[dursleyman]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tr7sprint1</i>

Do the poly bushing require lubrication on a regular bases?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
-no

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/