Door lock problem

[andyf]

The passenger door lock is playing up. I cannot shut it properly, it will only close on the first position, rather than fully shut second position. I had a 10 minute look yesterday and adjusted the striker plate and it's not that, and also tried adjusting the anti burst latch (is that what it's called?) and that seems fine.

I assume it's the door lock itself but before I attack it, does anyone have any suggestions or ideas?


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

[Maxwell]

Lightly grease the Anti-Burst lock.....

Maxwell [;)]

<b>2.0 TR7 Drop head \ Maxwell \ sold
2.0 TR7 Fixed head \ Robyn \ sold
3.5 TR7 V8 Drop head \ Oliver \ sold


2.0 TR7 Fixed head \ Ben \ current
0.7 Smart Roadster \ Oscar \ current</b>

[FI Spyder]

If the striker plate is too far in it won't latch on second position. I have what could be described as the opposite condition. When fully latched the door is even but still can be pushed in further which gives it some play and squeaks a little on rough surfaces. I attribute this to a collapsed door seal. Some day I will replace this to confirm. The latch is all the way in and if it could go in further the door wouldn't be even with body.

I always like to see the door latch cleaned, oxidized surface cleaned off/up and greased just to eliminate any resistance to the parts doing what they should be doing.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[andyf]

Anti burst latch, that's what i was trying to think of- done that it seems fine. I have adjusted striker plate way out and still have same problem


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

[TR Tony]

Andy, you can check the operation of the door latch mechanism by using a screwdriver or similar to apply pressure to the latch on the back of the door, & see if it clicks shut. There should be two distinct steps to the mechanism action. It can be a little fiddly to get the pressure in the right spot to replicate the action of the door striker on the latch. Once fully shut, you should be able to open again by pulling the outer handle.

If the mechanism only clicks to the first point the maybe the door mechanism is faulty.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

[andyf]

Haven`t tried anything yet Tony but that mirrors what I was thinking. I will give that a go as soon as I get some daylight hours to work on it.


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

[whitenviro]

There is a tiny spring in the door latch mechanism that is supposed to help return it to the open position. The spring can get out of position, or is just not powerful enough to overcome the build-up of crud in the latch. Then the latch doesn't reset properly once you open the door. Give it a good cleaning and work it a bunch of times like Tony suggests. It might free up and start acting right. If not you can remove it from the door and check it from the back.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[supercass]

It is always worth while ensuring that the inner handle is properly secured as if it isnt it can slip and cause some difficulty with door opening. From memory it is secured by one screw through the escutcheon supercass

[gaz]

What you don't want Andy is for the latch to stick in the closed position, the internals of mine collapsed at billing a couple of years ago nobody there could get the door open. When I did finally get it open it was only by chiselling around the lock however, I was replacing the door with another one so probably didn't try all my options.

http://mytr7.weebly.com/

1981 DHC 2.0 Litre
1980 DHC pedal car
1976 FHC 2.0 Litre