fixing the heater

vitessesteve · Postby **vitessesteve** » 14 Dec 2012 17:36

Have just bought a TR7 Sprint. I can not get any heat out of the heater. The fan works and the vents can open or close. Any suggestions as to how I can hot it up? I understand to get at the heater matrix the dash has to come off - short of such major work what else can I do?

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve

sydney.wedgehead · Postby **sydney.wedgehead** » 14 Dec 2012 17:44

Most/many Sprint conversions disconnect the heater as the TR7 version for connection at the rear of the Sprint head is unobtainable.
Pics here...http://www.triumphtrs.co.uk/tr7sprints.htm

S&S Preparations can supply a head back-plate to make the connection, or if you're handy, you could make one yourself.

[links fixed]

jclay (RIP 2018) · Postby **jclay (RIP 2018)** » 15 Dec 2012 02:39

If the hoses are all hooked up, try reversing the connections. If the water is flowing the wrong way. it will force the control valve shut.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

kstrutt1 · Postby **kstrutt1** » 15 Dec 2012 21:59

I have always found getting the hoses the right way round is critical, the feed from the back of the head goes to the bottom and return to the top, this way it self bleeds.

davesopener · Postby **davesopener** » 16 Dec 2012 09:46

Hi Steve
Worth checking that heater water pipes are connected
May be that matrix is clogged up
You can flush and then reverse flush the matrix
Changing the heater box is a time consuming job
But not terribly difficult
Any chance of some pics of your car?

vitessesteve · Postby **vitessesteve** » 16 Dec 2012 13:09

More pics etc at http://vitessesteve.blogspot.co.uk/

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 16 Dec 2012 14:09

Nice, like those wheels. I got some similar Lotus 14" wheels for Yellow TCT but need to be refurbished.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

vitessesteve · Postby **vitessesteve** » 21 Dec 2012 19:38

I think the wheels are Montego alloys they are wearing 205/50 15 tyres.

Had the engine running for over 15 minutes today, wanted to check that the Kenlowe cut in. Seems like the thermostat is stuck open because both the top and bottom radiator hoses were warm to touch and the fan never came on. The temp gauge never got much past 1/3. If fitting a new themostat warms things up I will be happy.

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 21 Dec 2012 22:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by vitessesteve

The temp gauge never got much past 1/3. If fitting a new themostat warms things up I will be happy.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

A lot of people would like that problem.[:p]

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

vitessesteve · Postby **vitessesteve** » 23 Dec 2012 15:23

Fitted new the thermostat that S&S Preparations had sent me overnight. Now the radiator hoses stayed cold, ran the engine for 20 minutes and still the Kenlowe did not cut in. The water temp gauge only got to 1/2 way - will see how it goes when I actually drive the car on road. The heater hoses got hot but still very little heat into the cabin. Next will try flushing the heater matrix to see if that improves things. If that fails will have replace the matrix.

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve

G v8 · Postby **G v8** » 23 Dec 2012 22:15

Did you do it like this . With engine running at temp and heater set to hot header tank half full . Remove the brass plug on thermostat and fill with water & anti freeze . Fill till water is level with the lower part of the tread . Run engine at 2000 rpm for 1 minute just to get any air out of the system . You will see air bubbles at the thermostat . when there is no air bubble's put the plug back in the thermostat and let the engine run . If like mine temp sit's just under half way . May be a good idea just to check the kenlowe is working . When the engine is at running temp half way or so turn the temp adjuster on the kenlowe so the fan kick's in . Then turn the temp adjuster a bit past the point it came on and you should be ok . This worked for me . I would give this a try before removing the dash to get at the heater matrix . It's not a hard job I had my dash & matrix out in 20 minute's when I put a updated matrix in as my seals had gone .

jeffremj · Postby **jeffremj** » 24 Dec 2012 07:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The heater hoses got hot but still very little heat into the cabin.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If the heater hoses are both hot, then there is full flow through the matrix! IIRC, you can feel the pipes from the inside of the car as they come through the bulkhead - try checking there? The TR7 heater system gives out lots of heat for a 2 seater - I beleive it was also used in the old Austin Princess, which was a large 4 seater car.

Perhaps the heater flaps are mis-aligned if both pipes are warm?

Raider · Postby **Raider** » 24 Dec 2012 08:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by G v8

I would give this a try before removing the dash to get at the heater matrix . It's not a hard job I had my dash & matrix out in 20 minute's when I put a updated matrix in as my seals had gone .
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It took me 10 hours! That was start to finish - 20 minutes would have seen me disconnect the heater hoses in the engine bay and start on the screws (lots of) holding the dashboard in.[:(]

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Project Manx 2010 (now a bit delayed!) - I wish I could drive a TR7 like Tony Pond
North Yorks/Lancs border
http://raidertr7.blogspot.com/
TR7 Sprint FHC tarmac rally car - Speke built ... Barnoldswick modified - there's a big difference!
1982 TR7 DHC - the wife's car that I drive!

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 24 Dec 2012 21:08

I wish I'd completed mine in 10 hours. It took me 2 1/2 days........

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... ter,matrix

All those pop rivets.

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

G v8 · Postby **G v8** » 25 Dec 2012 23:38

I Have been working on old car's for many year's so for me it's an easy job . I've just finished recommissioning a 1971 Bentley T1 for my father in law that's not been on the road in 10 year's . That included wiring , body work and full respray , Sorting the hydraulic rear height adjustable ram's & freeing up all the brake's 4 pot rear & two caliper's each side on the front no dot 4 but rr 363 costing about Â£95 , fixing central locking & electric window's , refinishing all the wood work , Passing it's mot first time father in law was well pleased . Just need to buff it when weather get's better

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fixing the heater

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