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Steering wheel spacer

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skiver
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Steering wheel spacer

Postby skiver » 14 Nov 2012 10:50

I'm 6ft 4in and with the seat all the way back the steering wheel in my TR7 is too far away. I'd prefer to keep the standard wheel rather than go for a deep dish style, so does anyone have any ideas about how I could safely bring the wheel an inch and a half to two inches closer?

John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 14 Nov 2012 15:07

Just stick with it skiver and you'll find you soon get used to it.

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spanner
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Postby spanner » 14 Nov 2012 16:17

We have made several bosses and sleeves for steering columns over the years for a variety of kit cars so that is probably the way ahead,we have also alterd the angle of the column efectively on a couple of them. It makes all the difference between feeling like the car was designed for neanderthal man and actually enjoying the experience
atb
Mike

Near Penrith and the Lake District :)

DutchTriumph
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Postby DutchTriumph » 14 Nov 2012 18:35

Maybe it's an idea to move the complete steering column, and adjust the shaft to fit.

Cheers,
Peter

1977 TR7 FHC, 1976 Spitfire 1500

skiver
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Postby skiver » 14 Nov 2012 19:43

Thanks for the feedback.

John, I've had the car seven years now and although I have a 'compromise' driving position I can live with I'd much rather not have my knees wrapped round the column.

Spanner, what would having a piece made involve and how much would it cost?

Dutch Triumph, how would you go about moving the whole steering column, is there enough slack to just pull it through the dash?

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 Nov 2012 21:25

Skiver moving the column would be a hassle as you would have to adapt or replace the trim that covers the stalk switch gear, & the top of the column.

It would not be too hard to make a spacer to go on the underside of the wheel. The wheel boss does have a couple of lugs on it which engage in the indicator gear to effect canceling as you turn, but they could be replicated.

You could get an old steering wheel from a wreck, cut out the centre, mount it on the column, then fit your existing wheel to it, with some long set screws. This would give you about 2 inches of extra length, which you could test before spending too much money on a one off, chromed or powder coated, item.

Hasbeen

skiver
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Postby skiver » 15 Nov 2012 10:00

Thankyou for that Hasbeen that sounds like an excellent and very neat solution. I do have a spare steering wheel as it happens so will set about adapting that, it does offer the advantage of fitting nicely onto the column and maintaining the self cancelling mechanism.

Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again.

John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 15 Nov 2012 18:34

Only seven years??? Give it another 20 or so and I'm sure you'll be okay!

Seriously though, sorry, it seemed like you were new to TR7 driving. Should have checked. I'm 3 inches shorter than you and drive with the seat right back and my arms fully outstretched and prefer that to anything else now. But I struggled to start with over 27 years ago.

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Howard
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Postby Howard » 15 Nov 2012 20:58

I had the same problem with my tr, which was fitted with a mota lita steering wheel. I eventually got round to buying a moto lita spacer. Although it cost around £35 it has made a huge difference and I now have the perfect driving position. I would recommend fitting a spacer, even if it means changing the original wheel,

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Nov 2012 04:47

I thought taller guys has longer arms so having the seat back for longer legs would match with longer arms. Just be glad you're not driving an Italian car where the normal driving position for any size is arms straight out a la orangutan style.



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Postby Workshop Help » 16 Nov 2012 10:56

What is it with you people? Can't you just sit there without all that fidgeting and fussing over the controls? With my Neanderthalic genetic background, I fit perfectly in the TR7 drivers seat with it pushed back to the next to the last notch.

Mildred Hargis

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