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Can this panel be saved

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nick
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Can this panel be saved

Postby nick » 17 Oct 2012 22:47

I know next to nothing about body work. And since the car is not running I can't take it to a body repair shop. So What do you think, can this panel be saved or should I start looking for a donor?

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Neil_W
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Postby Neil_W » 18 Oct 2012 00:28

Hi - the panel is creased at the front which maybe dificult to push out plus access is not great from underneath.
The sides unbolts from the front wings then spot welds drilled out to remove the panel.

The panel is readily available in the UK as they have been remanufactured using the original BL press.

$290 plus shipping although Moss do the panel at $520 so might be a cost saving from the UK.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-WKC4077

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProd ... exID=48150

Could of course buy a Bra for it to cover the dent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-1981-Trium ... 436wt_1137

For UK fans this is a cover you slip over the front to stop road rash.
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silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 18 Oct 2012 00:37

they are not the best pics to properly view the damage, but in my opinion I'd say no.....

The nose panel area is rather soft up there, and the panel is buckled all the way past the tr7 decal. You would have to re+re the frt bumper, beat out what looks like a square crease of a trailer hitch receiver, then have to correct the 3 angles + the point of the nose .... by the time its completely repaired 3/4 of the panel will be with plastic!
(I'm also certain the reinforcement is buckled under the sheetmetal, which would also require more repair time ....)

New skin is rather hefty in price, and I'm pretty sure does not include the underpanel reinforcement..... so in my mind a used frt panel clip would be the way to go, and they are available often on ebay .......
btw just out of curiosity , are the fibreglass frt panels still available ???

Ron.
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supercass
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Postby supercass » 18 Oct 2012 00:45

I would think a skilled panel beater could make an acceptable job using minimal filler. Problem is skilled panel beaters are now few and far between as most repairers now just replace panels. supercass

Workshop Help
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Postby Workshop Help » 18 Oct 2012 01:20

It's a fixer. About 4.25 hours by a decent metal man. If he starts at 8:00AM, it can be in the paint shop after lunch. And, there won't be that much bondo on it, either.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby mb4tim » 18 Oct 2012 11:11

Is this panel structural? I ask, because this cold be a candidate for a fiberglass replacement piece. Bolt holes where it bolts, rivets or epoxy where it spot welds.

It looks like a bear to lay up in glass, but it would be locally available for guys on this side of the swamp.

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http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com
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Postby Beans » 18 Oct 2012 11:33

Agree with Mildred, repairing that damage should be easy for someone who knows what he's doing.

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Postby John Wood » 18 Oct 2012 12:00

It's not structual, both metal and fiberglass replacements are available. It would take a skilled guy to get that back in shape, they are out there though.

1975 TR7
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Postby Cobber » 18 Oct 2012 12:45

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">I'd rather look at dents and stone chips than have one of these hideous condom things on my car
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The cure is worse than the complaint!</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">




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Postby dursleyman » 18 Oct 2012 13:14

You just need to find a decent bodyshop. The metal all looks good so a skilled man should be able to do that no problem.

Russ

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Postby nick » 18 Oct 2012 13:38

Thanks for all the responses. Access to the area is complicated on this car by an air conditioning installation. I was hoping to keep it in tact but I have started removing it. Once the condenser is out access should be pretty good. I guess I'll get the car back on the road and start visiting a few shops and see what kind of response I get. But that won't happen for a while. Lots of work ahead from engine to brakes to who knows what else.

Image[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
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Postby nick » 18 Oct 2012 14:00

[quote]Hi - the panel is creased at the front which maybe dificult to push out plus access is not great from underneath.
The sides unbolts from the front wings then spot welds drilled out to remove the panel.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

When installing the new panel would you re-weld the spot weld areas or could fasteners be used?

Also, if the panel is easy to remove, would it facilitate a repair by first removing it from the car?

Image[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
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Postby FI Spyder » 18 Oct 2012 16:13

UK guys say can be repaired, N/A say not. It's true that in N/A we tend to remove panel and install new. In this case a used one would be good. The crux of it is finding a panel beater, a lost art these days and if you find one (here) you'd have to see end result before skim coat goes on or you might find a couple of pounds of Bondo there. If you were to remove it for repair, at that point you might want to replace it as Ron says. Easy to say it can be fixed but ultimately you'd have to take the advise of the person doing the job who would be willing to have his work inspected before finishing.



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Postby whitenviro » 18 Oct 2012 16:58

If you want to repair it, the panel should stay in place. But if you remove it there wouldn't be much sense in trying to repair that panel. The time it would take to pound it back into shape would cost more than a replacement part. Once you have it off half of the work of replacing it is already done.

There is a guy in Portland breaking at least one car. He might have a good panel, but I think it would be from a DHC. I know there is a difference to the front grille trim but I think the panel is the same. I'll send you his info if I can find it.


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Postby tr7sprint1 » 18 Oct 2012 18:51

Looks like a receiver hitch was backed into it. It's definitely a fixer.

I see my plan of attack to fix if it were mine.



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