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Steering Column Bush - UKC2322

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 26 Jun 2011 02:10

While it can go one either way (engine bay or foot well) the correct way is to put in from the engine bay side. It's not easy because of the indention with little room but I was just able to twist it in by cutting away a bit to give it a place to "bite". It cools off quickly if heated in hot water, I believe I should have left it in longer. My next step would have been hot air gun. If that failed I would have tried shocking it in (all tried by some here). Here's a picture of the "cut" to get it started.

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Philip
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Postby Philip » 27 Jun 2011 10:11

Put it in just boiled water for a few minutes and it will slip in as easy as (never mind!)

Still standing !
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nick
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Postby nick » 27 Jun 2011 16:25

I had the same problem and cut it. This is not the way to go. It needs the full radius otherwise it impinges on the steering column and makes turning the wheel harder. I used heat on a new one and it went in.

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nick
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 28 Jun 2011 04:54

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by nick</i>

It needs the full radius otherwise it impinges on the steering column and makes turning the wheel harder. I used heat on a new one and it went in.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No problems with mine but dry heat seems the way to go.
Second one is always easier.[:p]

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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 28 Jun 2011 21:12

I removed the column to install the new bush. I found it was quite a loose fit & allows the column to move noticably. I either have an oversize hole in the firewall or got sold a runt bush. I assume from all this bashing & boiling talk that it should be a much snugger fit.

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 29 Jun 2011 15:38

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>

I either have an oversize hole in the firewall or got sold a runt bush. I assume from all this bashing & boiling talk that it should be a much snugger fit.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


As I recall a pretty snug fit, it was back in 2006/07. Always disheartening to hear that parts you get are not near original specs and are a crap shoot. Sign o' the times I guess. But anythings better than having the column flop around in the hole as you turn a corner.





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bmcecosse
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Steering column bush

Postby bmcecosse » 13 Aug 2012 18:56

I know it was on here recently - but can someone point me to the 'best' way to renew the bulkhead bush? The wretched thing has disintegrated today - and I need the car at the weekend.... Poly bush on it's way (I hope) from 'numpty'...

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 13 Aug 2012 19:05

Hi,

Could write you a 'how too' but my learned friend JClay does it so much better -

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Lower_Steering_Bush.html

IF the sliding part of the shaft does not move, you may need to remove the whole column, easy enough, only tricky part is the shear bolts. Use a centre puch to tap round or cut a slot in them with a dremmel tool and wind out.Disconnect wiring ect and out it will come out.



Cheers John

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Postby Workshop Help » 13 Aug 2012 19:42

You ask for knowledge, you get the knowledge:

Posted - 24 Dec 2011 : 15:08:45
Here we have yet another, 'And there I was story'.

...I know, how about a grommet to provide a quick fix for the steering column/firewall bushing?

Back to the Lowes Hardware aisles. Seeing how the diameter of our steering column as it passes thru the firewall, or bulkhead for those who speak a different form of the English language, is a little less than 3/4", I spy a package containing a 1 1/8"OD by 23/32"ID rubber grommet for the princely sum of $1.97US. Next item needed to complete the repair for the steering column bush is a 3/4"ID flat rubber washer. So, back to Plumbing we go and, yes, there it is hanging from the peg next to the drain parts for the price of $0.99US for two.

As you may be aware, the parts that actually wear out on our mighty steeds are typically the soft bits and pieces. We should be eternally thankful the design engineers at Standard-Triumph had the foresight to use commonly available sized components and NOT try to reinvent the wheel as the Oriental engineers do on all their products. To wander into a hardware store and find Triumph parts at prices so low it makes my pretty little head spin can rightly be considered a Festivus miracle!

Mildred Hargis

P.S.

The trick to installing the grommet and flat washer in the hole in the firewall is to;
1. Remove the remainder of the old bushing.
2. Cut the washer and grommet on one side.
3. Slide the grommet around the steering column from the inside and fit, using a small screwdriver, into place in the firewall hole.
4. Fit the flat washer on the steering column on the outside of the firewall. This washer is needed to keep the steering column from moving in and out, thus serving as a sort of thrust washer.
5. With your trusty tube of Super Glue, glue together the cut ends of the washer and the grommet. Try NOT to glue your fingers together yet again!

FAQ's:
A. Yes, this quick fix is not considered a permanent repair.
B. Yes, I did do this on July 20, 2011 in the motel parking lot with the temperature hovering at 104 degrees Fahrenheit in about 15 minutes at 6:30PM after work.
C. Yes, the fix is still holding in there and I do have a spare grommet in the parts bag in the trunk.
D. No, my wild days of social dating are long in the past, but I do appreciate your kind thoughts.

M.H.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby jeffremj » 13 Aug 2012 21:20

It took me an hour to complete with the proper bush:

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The original unit had a small cut into one side as if to make the beginning of a thread on a bolt. Using said cut as such, one simple rotation (from engine side) and it was in.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Aug 2012 00:38

If you use the original type bush it should be put on from engine side. Small diameter goes to the inside. I had to cut the slot in mine to screw it in. It was poly, winter and although I put it in hot water first it was all I could do to get it in (more heat would have helped). Of course steering shaft has to come out (no biggy, use Dremel to cut slot the shear bolts).

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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 14 Aug 2012 02:44

When my nolathane bush failed after less than 6 months I came up with a more permanent solution. A proper bearing in a metal housing attached to the firewall with 3 pop rivets. Now there is absolutely no play in the column & I never expect to have to do this job again.

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The bearing is ID 20mm/OD 40mm & the housing is a custom job that cost about $20 to have made. The top part of the housing is truncated along the line of the sound insulation in the picture. The alcove where the bearing is attached creates a plane to the columnn that is as near to perpindicular as makes no difference but, if you are going to do this, learn from my mistake & don't secure the bearing to the firewall until the steering is fully assembled. Also don't try using bolts over rivets, it is too fiddly & tight.

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 14 Aug 2012 04:59

Hi Peter,

A great solution, you should have gone into prodution.Did you do any drawing's of the bearing holder ?

Cheers John

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LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 14 Aug 2012 07:19

The bearing just press-fits into the housing to turn it into a flange bearing. I couldn't find an off-the-shelf flange bearing that would fit onto the area available so I had one milled from a disc. Ideally you would use a self-levelling bearing but the fixed-plane bearing works fine. I also remember having to spend a bit of time using a wire brush wheel to clean up the column enough to allow the bearing to slide far enough along to get it fitted up.

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Postby bmcecosse » 14 Aug 2012 20:56

Thanks all for the replies - so a couple of questions. Does the locking set screw fit into a dimple in the sliding shaft - or does it just 'grip' the inner shaft? Is this really all that holds the steering?? I like the idea of simply 'screwing' the new bush into the bulkhead - I don't like the idea of cutting it right through - is this really necessary?? As ever - I like Mildred's 'fix' - well done - I may just try that to use the car this week-end, and leave the real fix for when I have more time to do it without being time pressured.

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