Fuel tank

[Last TR]

Any tips for removal and replacement of the fuel tank?


Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

[john]

YEH disconnect the handbrake bracket in the propshaft tunnel [:D]

Empty the fuel tank

worst part for me was undoing the bottom bolt on the shock absorber

otherwise fairly straightforward as the manual a simple DIY job and lots of WD40

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

[Spectatohead]

I dropped the whole exhaust system from the headers back when I did mine too. I also took the rear axle all the way out. POR-15ed it and installed new poly bushings and spring pads when I reassembled it. Mark the three connectors going to the sender and the two going to the fuel pump. Remember which end of the prop shaft is front and back if you take it all the way out like I did, and forgot. There is probably more that I'm forgetting too. Good luck.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[FI Spyder]

Drive it until low fuel light comes on, Remove rear suspension, it's enough trouble with it out. Like Jim I took the opportunity to POR-15 the rear axle/suspension while it was out even though it was not that bad. I mark the prop shaft flanges (two notches front, one rear) just so it goes back in exactly the same way. Double lock nut the strap holder where it protrudes into the trunk so the stud doesn't turn when you undo the nut on bottom. For the front I held the strap with long handles right angled pliers so they didn't twist into a pretzel when undoing a nut. Mine were like new so didn't have much problem, don't know what it's like with cruddy studs. Other than that it's pretty much like the book says. Come out easier than it goes in. Partly because mine is rare DI tank and partly because I'd hate to have to do the job again (plus you don't want rust crud in FI system, leave alone carb system), I did the four part POR-15 tank sealer route, not inexpensive but would do it on Yellow TCT.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[dycecooper]

I disconnected the rear shocks, it was simple

[john 215]

Hi,

Unless certain of there condition would get hold of a set of straps and rubber petrol hose from the tank unit plus a seal for the tank unit.

There is every chance that the last couple of pints in the bottom of the fuel tank is mostly water so wouldnt re-use every drop of fuel ( water [:(] ) that comes out, its this water that rots your tank out [V]


Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

[Last TR]

Clearly not an afternoon project, but is it really necessary to remove the axle?

Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

[Spectatohead]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Last TR</i>

Clearly not an afternoon project, but is it really necessary to remove the axle?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I think that people have been able to do it by just dropping the axle by undoing the shocks. I also think that most of them only had single exhausts too. If you look one pipe is right under each side of the tank. This makes it almost impossible to drop one side of the tank like the guys with a single pipe can do. It's just way easier IMHO to get the axle and the exhausts out of the way. The axle comes out easy, getting it back is the fun part, especially with new bushings. [;)]

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[john 215]

Hi Ken,

not 100% nec to remove the axle, i just disconnect the shocks, loosen the suspension arm bolts, disconect the prop, brake pipe and handbrake, with the car high enough you can get the tank out. Once you have done a few they are not as bad as made out to be and easy to do in a afternoon.

Would give you a hand but not exactly local to me !

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

[FI Spyder]

While not necessary to drop axle it's one of those jobs that's so much easier when you do. I found it's easy to drop axle and put it back. As well you can turn diff down to drain all the oil out and put fresh stuff in (with some STP). I find that any job is usually not an afternoon project as I like to do everything )clean, paint, overhaul, replace etc.) when I have the parts out.[:p]



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Hasbeen]

I'm getting pretty slow these days, but it took me about 6 hours to fit the new tank in my 7 last week.

I have lock nuts permanently on both front & rear strap studs, & had spent a couple of weeks spraying the strap nuts with WD40 every day.

Luckily I had saved an old fuel gauge sender, [my junk to the lady], so I could use the float off it, when I found petrol in the existing one. I adjusted the float arm a little & this is now the first I have ever had the gauge read full rather than 7/8Th.

Don't forget to remove the bump stop, it gives a little more room. It is also a good time to pull the fuel filler neck out, to clean & paint under it.

Hasbeen

[Last TR]

What got me started down this path was fuel pump problems. Two shops advised me that the tank would have to come out. One shop replaced the internal pump with an external pump, which promptly failed. Looking at the tank and at the manual, it appears the pump can be accessed through a small removable panel in the front of the tank. I put another external pump on it yesterday and got the car running, but I would like to eventually put the proper pump in the tank.

Drove to the Portland Historics today and took a lap of the track. Too hot here; home to Anchorage tomorrow night.

Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

[Spectatohead]

Sorry I missed you this trip Ken. I had to go to Sherwood to a Pick-n-Pull to get a lower A-arm for my son's Saab. The leading edge of the one on the right side of his car snapped. Pulling the part of off the car at the junk yard in the 90 heat was nasty but not too hard. We've just spent the last couple hours trying to get the broken one off of his car in the parking lot where his buddy lives. The rest of it must've bent when the one part broke. It is all loose but just won't come out. Gave up on account of darkness. Should have just had it towed home. At least I have air tools and everything here. We have to hit it again tomorrow before it gets too hot.

Hopefully catch you next time you're here.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[FI Spyder]

Don't see why you can't pull the pump out of the tank with it still in the car. Not done it of course. I would certainly give it a try before dropping the tank even then you shouldn't have to drop it, just lower it. In tank fuel pumps are the type of thing you don't a cheap (poor quality) one of.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Spectatohead]

I'm pretty sure that you can get the sender out with the tank in the car but as I recall the fuel pump is very tight. It catches on the bulkhead and the opening on the tank. The pump mounting may need to be bent to clear and I'm not sure that is a very good idea. If not, like Merv said, just lower the tank a bit and it should clear.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd