Strut roller bearing conversion

TR Tony · Postby **TR Tony** » 09 Jan 2012 13:19

Thinking of doing the bearing conversion to the struts in my TR8 (sadly no PAS) but there seem to be different kits on the market.

Anyone difference in these? Any got any good or bad experiences with different kits?

Thanks in advance........

Tony

1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 09 Jan 2012 15:16

I do like my K-MAC's on the '8...
And the Ford bearings we fitted into dads '7V8 is OK.

There's two of the options for you... [;)]

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 09 Jan 2012 15:53

Have to agree with Odd's choice;
Ford bearing on the DHC and camber plate with solid bearing for 't Kreng.

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

TR7Aaron · Postby **TR7Aaron** » 09 Jan 2012 17:35

I don't remember which I used (the flat roller bearing type if that's any help) but doing that alone didn't make all that much difference in steering effort and I was disappointed.
However, combining it with greasing up all of the steering components and making sure that everything was aligned correctly and the tires aired up fully made a HUGE difference in steering effort.
I suggest you do a search on this on this website so that you can be better prepared on what is involved and what to expect.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 09 Jan 2012 20:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TR7Aaron

... However, combining it with greasing up all of the steering components and making sure that everything was aligned correctly and the tires aired up fully made a HUGE difference in steering effort ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That's what I call normal maintenance [:p]

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 09 Jan 2012 20:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I don't remember which I used ... but doing that alone didn't make all that much difference in steering effort
and I was disappointed. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Sounds very much like my dads experience (and we had everything greased as it should!)
- so we fitted a complete power steering to his car as well... [:D]

TR Tony · Postby **TR Tony** » 09 Jan 2012 22:39

Thank you gents, I am having the the struts out to overhaul due to the sticking damper in one leg, so was thinking about this while the units are all apart.

Seems to be only marginally more expensive than the standard parts that the bearing kits replace, so I will probably go for it.

Tony

1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

silverseven · Postby **silverseven** » 10 Jan 2012 01:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TR7Aaron

I don't remember which I used (the flat roller bearing type if that's any help) but doing that alone didn't make all that much difference in steering effort and I was disappointed.
However, combining it with greasing up all of the steering components and making sure that everything was aligned correctly and the tires aired up fully made a HUGE difference in steering effort.
I suggest you do a search on this on this website so that you can be better prepared on what is involved and what to expect.

Aaron
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

X2

I have exactly the same opinion as Aaron on this subject.
I bought a roller bearing kit from a large US Triumph supplier and found absolutely no difference in steering effort at low speeds (which btw I did not have a problem with before the swap either, just simply went with the product from previously overheard comments, the phone salesman's convictions and the fact that my front suspension was all apart anyways......)Honestly I'd be hard pressed to bother on another vehicle, but could be swayed on a quality adjustable camber kit instead [;)][;)][;)]

Ron.

nick · Postby **nick** » 10 Jan 2012 04:21

Just installed a set myself using the theory that I should replace the old stuff anyway. Had the struts out to put in new inserts, bump stops, gaiters, and change over to stainless braided brake lines. Got the engine back after cleaning up the damage from the blown piston. Should have it back in the car by the weekend. I'll be interested in how those needle bearings work out.

nick
'79 TR7

john 215 · Postby **john 215** » 10 Jan 2012 06:26

Hi,

Fitted the needle roller type to my DHC and whilst didnt give PAS lightness ( wouldnt want that anyway ) there was a improvement. Have to agree make sure the rest of the steering is free to and grease the rack via a grease nipple.

Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Triumph TR7V8 coupÃ© · Postby **Triumph TR7V8 coupÃ©** » 10 Jan 2012 07:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TR Tony

Thinking of doing the bearing conversion to the struts in my TR8 (sadly no PAS) but there seem to be different kits on the market.

Anyone difference in these? Any got any good or bad experiences with different kits?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi,

I have installed a roller bearing kit from Rimmers and had the car on the road yesterday for the first time since 1989. I drove the car to the workshop for fine tuning the engine and steering was extremely light even with the old flattened 195/50/15 tires on (still waiting for the new tires to arrive).
I was thinking about installing a PAS but I wonâ€™t need it I guess. For me the roller bearing kit is a good and cheap alternative for comfortable steering.

Greetings, J.

TR Tony · Postby **TR Tony** » 10 Jan 2012 13:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">[i]Originally posted by Triumph TR7V8 coupÃ©

I have installed a roller bearing kit from Rimmers and had the car on the road yesterday for the first time since 1989. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Congratulations - great to be back on the road after 22 years! I'll probably be getting the Rimmers kit to take advantage of their sale prices.

Thanks to all for the comments.

Tony

1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 10 Jan 2012 15:58

I used the needle bearing kit when I had it apart for new standard springs and KYB gas shocks as it has to make a difference compared to the friction of just flat surfaces even if greased. Now it didn't turn it into power steering but with the 13" TR8 steering wheel found on the Spider, every bit helps as you have that less mechanical advantage than a 14" steering wheel. The only thing the previous owner had a problem with was the hard parking lot effort but then she was a slighty built 60 year old 5'2" lady so any of you robust guys are thinking of complaining think of her, driving it daily in Sacramento traffic for 14 years. Do the upgrade, it doesn't cost that much and make sure you do Beans's "standard maintenance".

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 13 Jan 2012 21:55

I fitted Robsport's bearing kit when my shox needed renewing. It's nowhere near PAS and wouldn't want it to be but on the move the steering was transformed.

Much smoother and a smidge lighter but parking still requires effort
on 195's.

Definitely worth it if you're replacing the shox.

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 14 Jan 2012 00:26

60???? She's just a young pup! Why that's barely out of pantaloons and training bra.

I too, have thought about doing the strut bearing conversion and do like it's affordable price. Perhaps the next time I have to replace the rotted strut boot that was converted to an after market two in one item, that will be something to ponder before the wrenches and spring compressor are dragged over next to the front end.

Mildred Hargis

Anonymous

Strut roller bearing conversion

Strut roller bearing conversion

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