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Starting from scratch step 1 - cleaning

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bottomtop
Rust Hunter
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Starting from scratch step 1 - cleaning

Postby bottomtop » 21 Nov 2011 23:47

Hello,

I went on a long drive on the weekend to purchase a reconditioned sprint head. The plan was to acquire the neccessary parts over a period of time to convert my car. However, the obliging seller allowed to rumage through his treasure trove of a shed such that I now have almost everything I need to built a replacement motor while keeping the old girl on the road.

First question is - what is the best way to clean a block? Is it neccessary to have it professionally cleaned or are there certain products/brushes/techniques etc which can be used to do so safely and effectively at home?

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 22 Nov 2011 01:24

If you live in Melbourne they may not appreciate you contaminating the sewers with oil and grease in which case a machine shop clean may be necessary where they can trap and dispose. Many car washes won't let you clean engines there for the same reason. I you live out side of Melbourne (or know some one who does) say on the edge of a dried out lake bed or some other ecologically non sensitive area, you can spray, brush and flush and the engine will get clean. I use a water based degreaser, about $8/gallon (4 liters) dilute it about 20 to one (less for really greasy parts) and spray it on with hand spray bottle. It got it really clean so I could paint it with POR-15.

Actually I did mine in the garage, in the car with plastic under engine area and large flat lids to catch most of it and plastic catching the over run. You could be creative and let that strong Australian sun evaporate the water, fold up the plastic and dispose of in the garbage.



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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 22 Nov 2011 05:05

An engineering place should have a caustic bath for cleaning up steel & iron bits, & the pressure washer to get all the muck out afterwards. I use one of them if you can find one near by, they usually don't charge much.

At home I have a spot out the back of the shed where I wash engines, including tractors & paddock bashers. This is about a 10 meter by 15 meter area Which is probably only used once or twice a year, but surprisingly, it is hard to tell, where you did it within a month or 2 of doing a car. You can't do this stuff any more in town.

The water based detergent, & the oily muck off these things doesn't inhibit the grass for very long at all. A small petrol spill, of even a cup full, has a bigger, & longer lasting effect.

Around here we have some very voracious termites, [white ants locally], that can destroy a timber house in 12 months if it isn't protected. You have to get suited up in protective gear to use the stuff that protects wood from them.

Many of us have found a mixture of sump oil & kerosene poured down into the soil around the posts is just as good, & less dangerous. There is competition at the local motor garage for their sump oil, as we don't generate enough ourselves.

Hasbeen

bottomtop
Rust Hunter
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Joined: 30 Oct 2006 01:08
Location: Australia
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Postby bottomtop » 23 Nov 2011 00:09

Thanks for the tips. I'll have a bit of a go at home to start with but if I can't get a decent clean I might drop it off to the experts.

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