Rear springs

claypole1360 · Postby **claypole1360** » 08 Aug 2011 21:16

Hi, I have the uprated springs on the back of my 7, when the back is jacked up, they pop out at the top, how have people prevented this from happening, it's an mot test failure.
thanks Calvin

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

prlee · Postby **prlee** » 08 Aug 2011 21:43

Hi Calvin, yes they do that. I used cable ties and drilled holes in the spring seats as advised by S&S but they broke, Rimmers advertise another clip type. The problem is that the springs are shorter than the suspension movement. Not a problem if you don't go over bog bumps at speed.

Next problem will be the shocks, which do you have?

Spax & AVO bottom before the bump stop giving less suspension movement, kyb seem ok, Beans will recomend koni if you can find them.

I also found the ride far too firm so I'm back with the factory springs and much happier.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

jeffremj · Postby **jeffremj** » 09 Aug 2011 06:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by claypole1360

Hi, I have the uprated springs on the back of my 7, when the back is jacked up, they pop out at the top, how have people prevented this from happening, it's an mot test failure.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">These sort of items should not be on sale as they are not fit for purpose. Triumphtune had the correct items, but the source was lost when the owner was taken ill (a stroke?). The correct items are dual rate - a very low rate that is used up by the weight of the car and the 'normal' rate.

claypole1360 · Postby **claypole1360** » 09 Aug 2011 11:40

I've got gaz shocks on it, the ride is appalling, but I'm going to stick with it to see how they fare on a track as it will become my hillclmb/sprint car.
As for the spring, I'm sure that we'll come up with some sort of retaining strap system.

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

seven · Postby **seven** » 09 Aug 2011 12:41

Didn't the old Landrovers use some sort of seat type belting on their suspension to keep things that go up and down underneath from falling out[?]

The car is unable to handle my driving capabilities

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 09 Aug 2011 15:44

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by prlee

Spax & AVO bottom before the bump stop giving less suspension movement, kyb seem ok, Beans will recomend koni if you can find them.

I also found the ride far too firm so I'm back with the factory springs and much happier.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have Koni's on the back as well. Didn't spend the big bucks on them, they came with the car.

See....I'm not the only one who thinks regular springs are plenty stiff.[:0]

There are kits you can buy to retain shortened springs. Sometime back there was a picture of some ones solution. I would like to try progressive springs if they were still available.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

claypole1360 · Postby **claypole1360** » 09 Aug 2011 19:11

Forgive my ignorance, if I put standard springs back on, will I not have the back end relatively high up as a result?
it's stance at the moment is spot on in terms of what I want.
Calvin

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 09 Aug 2011 19:34

You can always weigh down the back [:p]

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 09 Aug 2011 19:48

Not necessarily. Regular spring rates compress more so need to be taller than higher spring rates which compress less and need to be shorter. If the spring rate/length ratios aren't correct the car will sit higher or lower. You won't know until you try it. I don't know the effect of mixing spring rates on handling and if it's a good idea.

Ride stiffness, body roll, handling are affected buy bushing hardness (hard black poly, soft coloured poly, rubber), anti-rollbar stiffness, shock rates, anti-rollbar position, tire size and air pressure, inner fender stiffness, chassis stiffness and not just spring rates. Lots of balls to juggle. Lower higher rated springs will often leave your car sitting higher. It seems it's almost a pay your money and take your chances.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

TR Tony · Postby **TR Tony** » 09 Aug 2011 22:25

When I first got my FHC, it still had it's original shocks & springs. The front shocks were pretty poor so I decided to change the shocks & springs as all the advice I read was to get 200lb springs & uprated shocks all round

I ended up with a kit from one of the specialists that was stated to be 50% uprated springs with standard ride height, with Konis for the front & AVOs for the back. I guess that would make the spring rates around 132lb on the front & around 247lb on the back.

I have to say that while the front spring/shock combination worked well (& is still on the car), the rear of the car was far too stiff & oddly sat up higher than standard by a good 25mm despite supposedly being standard ride height.

In the end I went back to the standard rear springs, keeping the AVOs. This improved the ride enormously, & restored the ride height. The rear of the car just feels so much better.

The Konis are on their softest setting (of 3), & the AVOs on the second softest (more adjustment stops on these). IMHO don't go too far with spring rates especially for road use, but do get some decent shocks.

Tony

1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

trekcarbonboy · Postby **trekcarbonboy** » 09 Aug 2011 23:25

A friend of mine who races his TR7 in SCCA has chains looped around the axle then attached to the chassis (don't know where). This limits the amount the suspension will extend and keeps from loosing a spring. Personally I wouldn't want to use chains but a nylon strap would do the same thing. I think you can get suspension limiting straps from 4x4 suppliers.

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

claypole1360 · Postby **claypole1360** » 10 Aug 2011 13:50

Thanks Craig, that may be the way forward I think if I stick with the existing spring setup.
I have some second hand standard springs in my shed, should I try these and see how they work? What do people think?

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 10 Aug 2011 16:29

Rear springs are easy to change just don't know what the effect is at the periphery of handling of unmatched spring rates. Chaining or belting suspension seems so inelegant and slightly S&M. I'd prefer clamping springs in place. That way no chains/belts to break with a Barricello/Massa incident.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 10 Aug 2011 18:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by claypole1360

... should I try these and see how they work? ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bear in mind that the people at Triumph thought hard about the TR7's suspension set up.
Only BL got it completely wrong on the quality of the bushes and the shock absorbers used.

I think a lot of people don't realise what influence changing spring and damper rates have on the overall behaviour/balance of a car.
So the first question you have to ask yourself, how do you want your car to behave?

And from recent experience (RBRR 2010 - thx Howard [;)]), a well sorted standard spec TR7,
with poly bushes standard rate springs and decent shock absorbers is rather nice to drive.
And proper brakes of course ...

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

claypole1360 · Postby **claypole1360** » 10 Aug 2011 20:27

So Beans, do you think that suspension would be sufficiently capable to cope with 250bhp and a V8?
I totally get your reasoning though, in a chat with a mate we marvelled at how Lotus managed to get great handling cars with relatively soft set suspension so there is something in your suggestion.
Calvin

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

Anonymous

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