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Replaced the Propshaft

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DNK
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Postby DNK » 14 Jun 2011 19:05

Pete , it's not always the wheels. Could easily be the tires

Don
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prlee
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Postby prlee » 14 Jun 2011 20:50

Thanks Don, I agree, first identfy the wheel and then tyre or wheel.

Not sure how to do that bit yet but I am now pretty sure it is one or the other.

This has been tricky as it has not been a vibration I have ever experienced before, couldn't tell where it was comming from.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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prlee
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Postby prlee » 19 Jun 2011 12:14

Changed each rear with the spare, no real change, so looks like I've 2 problems, at least the front seems ok now, vibration still from rear. I am back to the bearings again [:(!].

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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prlee
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Postby prlee » 24 Jun 2011 20:02

Had the local back street garage look over the car last couple of days. They are well set up and spend more time with the car and have a wider experience then main dealers along with lower costs, but they also have the equipment.

They checked all the ususal stuff including the bearings but couldn't find any real problem. They then put the car on the lift and supported the rear axle to load the springs. They spun the car up to 65mph and the guy in the drivers seat felt the vibration. But they despite the listening gear they cannot identify where the problem is.

However they told me that at 65mph the rear wheels started going up and down the off side more so maybe a couple of inches. so this is the problem, but what is the cause, maybe a bent half shaft???.

After a discussion we have decided to replace the offside halfshaft and bearing, then the nearside, last option is to rplace the main diff assembly.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 24 Jun 2011 20:52

Hi,

Daft question from someone who had to strip the halfshafts, brakes and running gear from his rear axle to exchange it for a 3.08 recon item.

How does a halfshaft become distorted (bent) inside the live rear axle?

A couple of years ago this forum was rife with posts about fuel tanks rusting from the inside out. Now rear end vibrations are taking their place.

Adam



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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

prlee
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Postby prlee » 24 Jun 2011 21:02

Hi Adam - no idea and they may not be bent, but at least we seem to be getting nearer. Maybe a be of hard kerbing in the past now shown up with tht poly bushes.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 24 Jun 2011 21:36

Yep, harder bushes don't hide the vibrations like the original soft hollow items.

I had a hell of a time chasing down a front end vibration. Cleaning up the mating faces of the hub / disc / disc adapters appears to have sorted it, not before renewing my propshaft and checking out all my tyres, wheels and linkages first. I'll be renewing the front wheel bearings in the next few months anyway.

I hope you clear your vibration shortly as I know how it can drive you nuts chasing the problem.

Adam

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Postby john 215 » 24 Jun 2011 21:40

Hi,

I have heard of the axle tubes cracking at the diff, worth checking, would give a eccentric motion

Cheers John

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prlee
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Postby prlee » 02 Jul 2011 19:47

Half shaft replaced yesterday, there is still vibration [xx(] May look at the wheels again before changing the n/s halfshaft. Only left with the diff bearings then.

b@#@@~r

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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Stag76
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Postby Stag76 » 02 Jul 2011 21:36

If you ask the garage to run it on the hoist with the wheels removed it may help you to identify the problem...wheels (tyres) or axle.

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prlee
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Postby prlee » 08 Aug 2011 20:04

Latest update - I still running with a harsh vibration between 65 and just over 70MPH.

So far the gearbox mount, propshaft and rh rear wheel bearing replaced - all had differing degrees of wear but none have solved the problem.

What I know is :-

One of the rear wheels has oval stud holes, the tyre shows signs of uneven wear.

The spare tyre was uneven giving a worse vibration, new tyre has fixed this.

The other wheel and tyre seem ok now and swapping sides does not alter the vibration, but its still there.

Checked the wheel bearings on each side yesterday, slight play possible grumble on the LHS, but I am not experienced enough to know, slight endfloat of less than 1mm, checked the new bearing on the rhs, about 3mm play arrg[xx(]

I have spoken with Robsport, looks like the play is too much, but the problem is not likely to be the Diff as there is not reaaly any whine, no banging and the prop seemed very straight when tested on the ramp. Main suspect is wheels but I have now almost covered this.

I am now looking at replacing the LHS bearing.

Didnt mention that in the meantime th RHS front bearing failed and has been replaced.

I think I am getting somewhere but it seems 1 step forward and 2 steps back. [:(!]

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 08 Aug 2011 22:11

I would suspect a tyre after all you've done.

Can you borrow a couple of wheels & tyres from another car that has no problem?

Failing that, I'd put the car on a wheel dyno, [rolling road], where you can see & probably hear what is going on where.

Hasbeen

prlee
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Postby prlee » 09 Aug 2011 17:25

Thanks Hasbeen, the local garage used a microphone system to try and locate the vibration without success.

I dont have access to a good set of wheels so I am persisting with what I have. If it is wheel/tyre then I think I am only left with the second rear wheel, I have ordered a good used ally fron Robsport and will fit a new tyre (I am keeping the removed tyres for the moment) This should then rule out tyres and wheels. The thing that makes me think that it is not just tyres is that the garage found the vibration with the car on ramps and the wheels off the ground. I think they did find a wheel problem though.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

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wedgewa
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Postby wedgewa » 11 Aug 2011 00:53

You have quite a bit of effort in this!
One thing I didn't see mentioned that has been the solution for my TR7 is spin-balancing the rear wheels on the car. And the fronts as well. This has not been a common practice in recent years and it can be hard to find a shop/tech even willing to do it (properly). Once done you must always make sure the lugs go back in the same holes when a wheel is removed. The process for rears involves blocking one side so it does not turn with the wheel off the ground for safety and running the other wheel off the ground at an indicated (on the speedo) half desired speed. At my local tire shop, they have a semi-retired guy who only works one half day per week who still does these jobs.
That and a new drive shaft with U-joints at both ends (no CV) eliminated the shake at 55-65 mph.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 11 Aug 2011 15:47

I don't know, Ive said it before and I'll say it again. I had a violent 55 - 65 mph vibration and all I did was buy new tires to replace the old worn tires. I did put poly on front and replace ball joints and tie rods but that was because the rubbers had disintegrated and before I knew you could get replacement ones.

People seem to spend all kinds of money and time on replacing every part on the car to no avail before buying new tires in the first place. They're only reliable for seven years anyway (check the manufactured date code) and many internal imperfections visible or not make them difficult to impossible to balance. I got mine balanced on a computerized low speed balancer when I bought them. Cost me $60 each including tire, mounting, balancing and new chrome valve stem for the alloy's. I've taken them off and on many times including 5 wheel rotation with no problems. I think tires should be the first thing replaced not the last. Assuming the wheel is straight and not bent through hitting a curb or whatever which can be easily checked for.



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