Vibration woes

prlee · Postby **prlee** » 18 Apr 2011 19:55

Been on the forum about this problem before.

There is a high frequency vibration in the car between 65 & 75 MPH. I have been trying to find the cause. The problem was that it was not ther before I took the car off the road in 2008 and appeared when she was put back on the road in September last year.

Yesterday I replaced the rear shocks with KYB from S&S. The AVO's have been on for about 6000 miles but never happy with them. They click and whistle.

The KYB are so much quieter, but they perform so much better, handling is still excellent, but ride is much smoother - still firm and sports car like.

The vibration is also very muched reduced, it is now just mildly annoying. My conclusion is that it was always there but installing polybushes throughout transmitted the vibration more, the new shocks have rubber bushes that absorbe the vibration better.

I suspect the real problem is either the propshaft or the front pinion bearing, but mabe not too serious at the moment.

Pete
81 Carmelian Red DHC
79 Pageant Blue Spitfire

DNK · Postby **DNK** » 18 Apr 2011 19:56

Try a proper shaft. U joints sans the CV type

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

trekcarbonboy · Postby **trekcarbonboy** » 18 Apr 2011 20:40

Drive 80. Problem solved! [:D]

Craig

prlee · Postby **prlee** » 18 Apr 2011 20:41

Propshaft is the cheaper option.

Pete
81 Carmelian Red DHC
79 Pageant Blue Spitfire

DNK · Postby **DNK** » 18 Apr 2011 20:55

Only if you get caught

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Henk · Postby **Henk** » 18 Apr 2011 22:49

I had it with my daily driver, after searching it was the reartyre it
was not round or a flat piece in the tyre.

Henk

1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

silverseven · Postby **silverseven** » 19 Apr 2011 01:04

-in before Mildred suggests the search button........

The infamous vibration is part of what makes our cars what they are!

I'd start with re-balancing the wheels,tightening the lugnuts by hand then retorquing. Repacking and torquing the frt wheel bearings is another way to cure wheel vibrations. And finally would also be a good time to check over the suspension looking for any looseness in the ball joints or tie-rods...

Ron.

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 19 Apr 2011 02:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by silverseven

-in before Mildred suggests the search button........
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Ha! There are a dozen or so causes, any one or combination of them will cause the problem. Start with least expensive first or those you were thinking of doing anyway. With me it was the old (and badly worn tires). It needed new tires anyway. You seem to think it's coming from the rear but most problems come from the front. Either you are misdiagnosing the symptoms or you have a different problem that most of us have had. Driveshaft CV joints or U joints are most common on rear vibration.

With tires, as you rotate then look for out of round (the surface of the tire goes up and down) or tread squirm (the treads wobbble left and right). Check all four tires off the ground. Even though they look good I strongly suspect they may have internal belt problems that might not show up on a visual check. Take it to a tire shop that has a hi tech tire balancing system that is not too old. I know one tire guy that replaced his periodically as he felt they didn't retain their accuracey for ever. The amount of tread on them has nothing to do with the possibility of being out of round, tread squirm or internal problems. If they are over seven years old they should be replaced for safety sake anyways according to the experts. Although I still have a set of old Michelins on the rear of my Integra I won't be doing anymore 145kph on them any more. Sometimes the only way to completely eliminate tires as a possible cause is to get new ones.

That's just tires. Ball joints, tie rods, front bushings, loose wheels bearings, loose steering rack, worn steering shaft u joints, steering shaft firewall bushing, in other words anything in the steering to tire train can cause the problem. As it's been off the road for a while and sitting on the tires on mainly one spot for three years my bet is tires whether the problem is hidden or not.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

PeterTR7V8 · Postby **PeterTR7V8** » 19 Apr 2011 04:02

Just a question about the firewall bush. I replaced mine with a yellow nolathane part (from Rimmers probably) but I notice that it is not a snug fit on the steering column. In fact it is pretty loose. I wonder if this contributes to a big shake I sometimes get when I dab the brakes. I know it isn't the discs because they are new, is intermittant & tends to be less when I use the brakes hard. It isn't the wheels cos it happens with both rims. It isn't the rack or the bushes either cos they're all new. The 2 bolts holdingthe column to the dash are tight but because the firewall bush is loose I can wobble the wheel so it bounces off the sides of the bush. Has anyone else noticed this with nolathane bushes & does your firewall bush give good support to the steering column?

The map: http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 19 Apr 2011 09:29

Hi Peter,

I wouldn't right off the discs even if they are new.

I had exactly the same issues, dabbing the brakes gave the steering wheel a right good tank slapper. (albeit with old discs and pads) I went through and stripped / renewed the whole front suspension. No difference. Different wheels / tyres, no difference. Renewed the front wheel bearings, no difference.

I renewed the discs as I noticed they were a bit worn and was ever so careful to ensure there was no grit between the new 2.8i discs and hub / adapters. Almost all the steering wheel movement under braking has gone now.

I think I had disc run out. http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/t ... in-01.html

Hope this helps,

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Laird Scooby · Postby **Laird Scooby** » 19 Apr 2011 12:19

Vibration under braking could also be contaminated linings. If it's more prevalent on the front then it's pads causing it. Take them out and give them a soak in methylated spirits (de-natured alcohol for our USA friends) and then dry and re-fit them.
While the pads are out, give the discs a good going over - check the run out as previously suggested and also (if you didn't do it when you last changed the pads), wedge a file between the edge of the disc and the caliper so the file is on the rough edge of the disc that never sees a pad and using a long screwdriver or spanner as a lever, turn the hub in the normal direction of travel to remove the rough edge from the disc. This in itself can cause wheel wobble, vibration under braking etc.

Lastly, as has already been said, if the car was laid up for 3 years, i'd be replacing the tyres regardless of condition. When they are stood for this length of time they tend to degrade inside, form flat spots, perish from the inside out etc.
If you have a set available, fit a set of different wheels/tyres to prove the point that that's what's causing your vibration. As for the other stuff, it's worth doing anyway if you haven't already done it.

Cheers,
Dave

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 19 Apr 2011 14:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PeterTR7V8

Just a question about the firewall bush. I replaced mine with a yellow nolathane part (from Rimmers probably) but I notice that it is not a snug fit on the steering column. In fact it is pretty loose. I wonder if this contributes to a big shake I sometimes get when I dab the brakes. The 2 bolts holdingthe column to the dash are tight but because the firewall bush is loose I can wobble the wheel so it bounces off the sides of the bush. Has anyone else noticed this with nolathane bushes & does your firewall bush give good support to the steering column?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My bush (the original rubber one) was missing completely (like many other rubber parts on the car). The steering shaft would just flop around in the hole as I turned the wheel. I put in a blue poly bushing from Victoria British. As I remember it the shaft is quite snug in there. I'm wondering if your is one of those "not quite right" parts we get from time to time.

It goes in from the firewall side although I know some have put it in from the interior as there's not much room in the firewall bushing well. It may work just as well put in backwards I don't know. The slot I cut in to facilitate "screwing" it in. The water from hot water to soften it up to put it in.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

prlee · Postby **prlee** » 19 Apr 2011 18:02

Thanks for the replies, I have ruled out the tyres, front were new and stored well, rears were replaced before putting back on the road. Bushes all new, wheel bearings checked, gearbox mounting replaced, no vibration under braking, new shocks, struts rebuilt with bearings on top, ball joints checked.

I think I am down to prop or diff bearing.

I do have a bit of steering wheel wobble which seem standard for a TR7 with factory alloys.

Pete
81 Carmelian Red DHC
79 Pageant Blue Spitfire

trekcarbonboy · Postby **trekcarbonboy** » 19 Apr 2011 18:45

Peter, my bushing was also a snug fit. Not super tight, but no shaft movement at all.

Craig

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 19 Apr 2011 19:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by prlee

I do have a bit of steering wheel wobble which seem standard for a TR7 with factory alloys.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

After my tire (and other stuff change) I've never had any steering wheel wobble . That's after several tires been taken off and put on and a five wheel rotation.

I take it then from your last post the vibration we are talking about is not felt at the steering wheel but from the seat of your pants? If that's the case I would guess it would have to be from rear trans mount back.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

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