Window lift lubrication

[bahbzilla]

Are there any tricks to exposing the window lift mechanisms for lubrication? I have my inner door panels off for speaker installation, and since it seems like I need to apply a lot pressure cranking the windows up & down, a good lube might be in order.

Thanks,
Bob



1980 TR7 DHC

[FI Spyder]

I took out the winder and flushed mine out in my parts washer and when dry, lubricated them with a clear synthetic grease. It's a little bit of a Chinese jigsaw puzzle getting it out and back in but just a little patience is needed.

There are other issues involved. The door cards were warped up at the top rear so I replaced them with new ones (from VB with aluminum inner skin on upper third to prevent future warping). More importantly I replaced the felt (?) inserts in the guides front and back as the old ones were pretty worn out. I adjusted the rear guide so there was minimal play between window and guides. If the felt guides are worn, fallen out or not adjusted right, the window can cock binding in the front and rear guides. A worn window winder can also provide some resistance to winding when under load. It's an accumulative thing so you can do one thing at a time or do everything at once (my approach). I went from a window that would only wind up by grabbing the window and lifting while turning the handle to being able to wind it up by itself. Not as easy as a friends TR7 but easier than my Toyota. It may ease up with use as the new felts get a little more worn in.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[prlee]

As I was fitting electric windows I had to make the lift as light as I could, the mechanism is not the best design for this.

I had to replace regulators as they were slipping anyway. Removal was easy, I just looked at the meachism an wiggled things about, replacement was a bit more difficult but once you get the technique it was relatively easy.

To lubricate I think I used a graphite based grease for the mechanism, I would think any light grease would do. I replaced the felt and used a silcone based spray on these.

I also found that the passenger side window was fouling on the side impact bars and had to adjust the quarter light frame to get clearance.

I found I had to cut off the inner part of the window seal on the door card as well

The electric windows now work well.



Pete
81 Red DHC
79 Blue Spitfire

[prlee]

While I remember I can add the following.

After the door card and winder handle are removed proceed as follows.

Use a helper to hold the window in the up position.

Remove the 4 screws holding the mechanism.

Now the mechanism can be slid out of the runners, a bit fiddly but suddenly happens, 2 locations on the window and 1 on the door frame as I recall.

Remove the glass from the door - you need to angle it to clear the runners.

You can now remove the mecahnism from the door.

Pete
81 Red DHC
79 Blue Spitfire

[nick]

I found my binding after the glass started up the triangle window rail. I couldn't understand what the problem was. I took off card and managed to relieve the bind by shimming the triangle window mount away from the inside of the door. This made the window and door tracks line up better. Since I couldn't see any damage or modifications I concluded it must have come from the factory that way.


nick
'79 TR7

[Milanoverde]

When I got my 7, the passenger window was very hard to operate. In fact, it was so stiff, the teeth were stripped. I replaced the regulator, lubed everything but it was still difficult to operate. I took the window out , put a large screwdriver in the rear channel and whacked away a few times with a hammer.
Problem solved!

[FI Spyder]

Paraphrasing others experiences then, the rear channel is adjustable front to back (which I mentioned) but it seems we have to be aware of in and out as well as possibly adjusting the front rail (quarter window frame) as well by shims, play in bolt holes etc. With the lift disconnected the window should slide up and down fairly easily then. With the rubber stop on the quarter window removed (it's just glued in) the window will slide straight out the top (for removal purposes) with metal up stop removed, in a convertible. With a coupe it must be tilted to clear the door frame. Can't wait to play with Yellow TCT to see how free I can make it.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[windy one]

I always use wheel-bearing grease. The stuff in the can ya gotta scoop out, not the stuff in a grease-gun. [:D]

Johnny

[McLarenf1l]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

I took out the winder and flushed mine out in my parts washer and when dry, lubricated them with a clear synthetic grease. It's a little bit of a Chinese jigsaw puzzle getting it out and back in but just a little patience is needed.

There are other issues involved. The door cards were warped up at the top rear so I replaced them with new ones (from VB with aluminum inner skin on upper third to prevent future warping).


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is rather off topic but regarding the door cards: is replacing them the only way to negate the warping look? Have you tried to smooth the door cards out in any way, maybe applying pressure for prolonged periods of time? I ask because I have the same issue.

Coincidentally, I also have the same issue with the window crank so thank you for the info as well.

My email: mclarenf1l@gmail.com
Zip code for reference: 48182

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by McLarenf1l</i>


This is rather off topic but regarding the door cards: is replacing them the only way to negate the warping look? Have you tried to smooth the door cards out in any way, maybe applying pressure for prolonged periods of time? I ask because I have the same issue.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I tried straightening them by putting them in a box and soaking it with steam from a Shark steamer then drying it out while held in position, like the Indians used to do making their birch bark canoes, but it made little difference.

The good thing about VB's door cards that I got for the Spider (besides the aluminum inner skin to prevent repeat warping) is they have a removable inner glass seal (like the outer one on the door) for better water sealing inside as well as they would be replaceable when the rubber get old and hard.

The good thing about the original type I got (for Yellow TCT) from Rimmers on their 70% sale two winters ago is that they were really cheap.[:)]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[bahbzilla]

Thanks for all of the input. I found that raising and lowering the window would expose enough of the gears and slides to get some fresh grease in there. They were looking pretty dry...

1980 TR7 DHC