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Engine paint

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macmattom
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Engine paint

Postby macmattom » 07 Feb 2011 11:35

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Unfortunately I have to swap my engine, but luckily I have a nice 16-valve unit sat waiting to go in. I will be overhauling it in the next couple of weeks and would appreciate any tips.

While I have the engine sat on an engine-stand, I'm going to clean it up and remove all those years of oil leaks!. The car is red, so I was thinking of painting the block and water-pump cover red (hammerite?), the sump black, polishing the rocker cover and leaving all the other bits (heater jacket, oil transfer housing, dizzy, inlet manifold etc) as bare metal. Does anybody have any thoughts, suggestions or photos so I can make a final choice.

Cheers,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 07 Feb 2011 12:09

Mac,

I to am putting a 16v engine in my 7 and i'm probably doing much the same as you.

The first thing i noticed is that you are intending to use hammerite, I was advised against this as its resistance to heat is not fantastic and in time will probably peel.

I have used some engine laquer (that is available in various colours) and heat resistant to approx 150 degrees.

I will post a pic of the engine shortly for you to see as i have done the block in black and the head in silver, just give me 20 mins to get it out the garage.[:)]

ImageImageImage

1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 07 Feb 2011 12:33

Here you go Mac;

Image

Image

Other things you may or may not know Mac, the exhaust manifold needs replacing to tubular extraction, as you can see in the second picture the hole at the end of the head, you will need a water transfer plate as on the dolly the heater pipes are located in a different place to the 7. If your engine is out of a dolly and not a 7 you will also need to remove the flywheel and change the engine adaptor plate for the one from your 8v engine.

I'm going to paint the rocker cover when i take it off to replace the gasket, the water pump cover etc will be silver and the gearbox has been done.

ImageImageImage

1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

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Postby Workshop Help » 07 Feb 2011 12:56

If you please, I suggest the oil pan, dipstick, and oil filler cap be painted a John Deere tractor green. The block be painted using black engine paint, the rocker box silver, leaving the aluminium pieces in their natural state. The other bits and pieces will look good with whatever left over house paint on the shelf.

There are times when decor matters.

Mildred Hargis

staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 07 Feb 2011 13:35

Whatever next,

Wallpaper on the inner wings [?][?]

A little fireplace to go round the transmission tunnel [?] [;)]

ImageImageImage

1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

DNK
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Postby DNK » 07 Feb 2011 16:08

You can use any paint and color you like just coat that with a HI Temp clear.

Don
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Postby Bobbieslandy » 07 Feb 2011 17:07

Don't buy Halfords Hi temp spray paint, firstly it makes your engine block look like a BBQ (horrid matt black finish) and i was very weary about it's claims about being "durable". It did make an awesome primer for the black hammerite though[:D] My waterpump has been leaking oil out of the telltale since i fitted it and the hammerite has shown no sign of cracking or peeling with a constant supply of hot oil being poured over it. As with any painting, it's all in the preperation and as long as the block is scrupliously clean then hammerite will adhear just fine. and looks pretty good too.

Here's one for you Mildred.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2y5nk_ekMM

ImageImageImage

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 07 Feb 2011 19:53

They make engine aerosol paint for engines. Why you would not use that? Unless you want something special like chartreuse.[:)]

Actually I tend to use caliper paint. Durable (calipers are in a high risk environment) and heat resistant (calipers get hot). Again you're somewhat limited on colour range.



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trv8
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Postby trv8 » 07 Feb 2011 20:26

How about Por 15 from Frost, plenty of colours too....
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp? ... &SubCatID=

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... =Chevrolet Orange Engine Enamel (473ml)

Beans
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Postby Beans » 07 Feb 2011 20:30

Would fit a Dutch engine quite nicely [:p]

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Postby Workshop Help » 07 Feb 2011 23:05

Wallpaper? Fireplaces? I am enthralled our local male population is developing such savoire-fair and taste for a properly decorated automotive theme.

I didn't think you had it in you.

During my big overhaul some six years ago, I used a brush on gloss black enamel paint from Rustoleum bought at the local hardware store. It has held up well except in areas where I oversprayed aerosol brake cleaner to clean off oil seepage.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby Cobber » 08 Feb 2011 05:50

Most engine reconditioners I know use plain old fashioned gloss enamel, the good mineral based stuff you would thin with a bit of turps not the bloody useless water based acrylic crap that they will try and tell you is paint but in reality is little more than coloured water!
The car parts joints will try and tell you that the engine enamel in aerosol cans is better and at up to ten times the cost it would need to be! But the heat of the engine will bake the enamel on and be very heat tolerant, you wouldn't want your engine to get hot enough to burn the paint off, if it got that hot you'd be rebuilding it and repainting anyway!
Enamel won't however be any use on the exhaust manifold as that bit does get to hot for it, there are so called exhaust manifold paint but they don't seem to last much more than 6 months. Your better off getting the exhaust manifolds done by someone like Jethot Coatings

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Postby macmattom » 08 Feb 2011 07:16

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Thanks ladies and gents, much for me to ponder.

Cheers,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Feb 2011 15:32

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Cobber</i>


Enamel won't however be any use on the exhaust manifold as that bit does get to hot for it, there are so called exhaust manifold paint but they don't seem to last much more than 6 months. Your better off getting the exhaust manifolds done by someone like Jethot Coatings
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The latest exhaust manifold paint I've seen is ceramic paint (good to 1500 degrees. Don't know how long it lasts. It's initially cured in an oven at 500 degrees then it must be put on and car run for the exhaust to complete the curing before a certain time frame or it will not cure properly and consequently not last. That last bit makes it suspect, can you put on the exhaust manifold fast enough. Not sure what Jethot Coatings would charge but for those DIY'ers you can buy stuff from your powder coating people. It's a ceramic in water slurry that you spray on with a cheap spray gun then initial curing in oven at 500 degrees then final curing is done at exhaust temperatures. It is true ceramic coating that gives you the heat retention of ceramic coating to keep your engine bay cooler as it passes the heat further back and out the tail pipe.

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Feb 2011 15:38

Here's the link to Columbia Coatings for ceramic powder.
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/category_s/7.htm




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