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Sealing door frame/speaker rear wave

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Jan 2011 20:02

They vent properly when you have the door vents (open). With speakers in the venting is minimal (two small square holes at each side at the bottom of sill). That's why I sprayed mine liberally with waxoil. Ever see any rust in the wheel well rims? Ever wonder why most TR7's are rusty there? That area is contiguous to the area you want to put your speakers. The doors are constantly dry by comparison.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 16 Jan 2011 20:46

Thanks to everyone for the very useful info and comments.
My MDF speaker panels will be covered at the back with a self adhesive damping pad and all the panel edges will be heavily brushed with Hammerite underbody seal. I've applied some on a test MDF panel, then wetted it; the uncovered area soon absorbed the water, but if ran off the painted area in little beads. All the MDF furniture i've made has been very stable in damp environments (like my workshop) so i feel confident it will last in the car.
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020637.jpg[/img]
Speaker hole leveled out with filler paste and aluminium sealing panels trial fittment (using household window foam roll strip to seal, seems to work!)

trv8
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Postby trv8 » 17 Jan 2011 05:50

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>


By having the speaker easily installed in the factory provided space in the dash, your favorite music is blared into your knee AND into the ears on your head. This is a concept known in select circles as 'Stereophonic Sound', in that the voices in your head are drowned out by tunes from the radio bombarding your senses from several angles.


Mildred Hargis
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No, in 'select circles' stereo usually means two-channel sound recording and sound reproduction using data for more than one speaker simultaneously.
A stereo system can include any number of channels, such as the surround sound 5.1- and 6.1-channel systems used on high-end film and television productions.
HOWEVER, in common use it refers to systems with only TWO channels, not THREE. The electronic device for playing back stereo sound is often referred to as a "stereo".

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 17 Jan 2011 15:36

Stereophonic sound is described as two or more speakers (sources of sound) which includes three, four, five, six or seven speakers (THX). The extra speakers can be simulated by electronically delaying portions of the sound spectrum (that which is reflected) as if it where bouncing off walls (side and rear).

Personally I like listening to the voices in my head mentioned in Mildered's post.[8D]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 17 Jan 2011 18:47

Another door frame aperture dealt with. Aluminium bracket and rubber grommet does the job. Fortunately the door handle rod can be passed through with the bracket in place so it can be left on permanently and sealed with polyurethane sealer. Back of door handle aperture to be sealed from inside with 3M damping pad material
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020639.jpg[/img][/img]

Marsu
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Postby Marsu » 17 Jan 2011 18:53

Wow! You're going to town and I expect this will sound good.

What have you used on the inside of the door skin?

[addendum]
What window regulator is that?

yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 17 Jan 2011 21:20

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Marsu</i>

Wow! You're going to town and I expect this will sound good.
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Yes, i hope so, but this is not the only reason to do it, you see, there's an added bonus: i´ll
have a barrier for any possible draughts and road noise via the door drain holes


What have you used on the inside of the door skin?
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I´ve used 3M brand (bitumen) damping pads and then added some (also bitumen) constructors roof felt, sold in rolls, and costs a fraction of the price of the automotive stuff, it´s not adhesive, but with a heat gun it adheres quite well. To me it seems to be very similar in texture and weight, but not 100% sure. I wonder if anyone else has used it as an alternative?


[addendum]
What window regulator is that?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

What you see is the original (early- Canley) interior door handle

Marsu
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Postby Marsu » 18 Jan 2011 04:32

Not what I meant. I recognise the door latch.

What I don't recognise is the part sticking through where the window winder handle fixes to the regulator in the following pic:
Image

yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 18 Jan 2011 14:49

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Marsu</i>

Not what I meant. I recognise the door latch.

What I don't recognise is the part sticking through where the window winder handle fixes to the regulator in the following pic:
Image
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ah yes, that's a modified shaft to accept the much better Dolomite/TR6 chrome handle but with TR7 end knob, also modified with internal nylon bush adjusted for zero play. The original set-up with circlip seemed to be about to fall off at any moment, also the original plastic handle has a slight flexing under pressure that i dislike, that´s the price to pay for plastic, nasty stuff in the wrong place!
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020644.jpg[/img][/img]
I hade to make it in 2 parts (screwed together + hollow pin) otherwise it wouldn't fit through the door aperture
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020650.jpg[/img][/img]

DNK
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Postby DNK » 18 Jan 2011 14:54

All that could go away if thew electric windows came back

Don
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80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 18 Jan 2011 16:38

[quote]<i>Originally posted by DNK</i>

All that could go away if thew electric windows came back

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id=
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Those are fine perhaps for people with weak arms

ColoradoTR8
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Postby ColoradoTR8 » 18 Jan 2011 17:06

A chrome MGB/Midget window crank will bolt right on without modifying anything.

<b><i>Shawn</i></b>

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