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Underseal Vs Hammerite

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staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 12 Jan 2011 18:09

Been and got my waxoyl today, managed to get a 5ltr tin with a spray pupmp for £19.99 after my discount.[:)]

What a bargain and it also gives me something to do this Sunday.[:)]

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1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 12 Jan 2011 19:06

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If it was applied to bare metal than I'd make sure you get those grey bits covered.
Because that should be bare metal !<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Beans, I don't understand???
What should be bare metal?

Beans
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Postby Beans » 12 Jan 2011 20:33

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by cozyheatdave</i>

... But it was applied to bare metal ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Your own words, bare metal is unprotected metal.
In your case the bare underside is treated with a black product.
Everything else you see (light grey) should be unprotected metal then.

This is how a shot blasted and completely unprotected bare metal body shell looks ...

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So make sure you get all those grey areas protected too!


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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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catmanboo
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Postby catmanboo » 13 Jan 2011 02:25

I used hammerite on my boat trailer fenders years ago- it didn't hold up well at all. either I screwed up the process, or had a bad batch. very chip-prone. in no time, they looked like hell.I'm sticking with brush-on undercoating where needed. my '7 is currently getting stripped bare for new paint,now if only I could make up my mind on the color-it ain't gonna be brown anymore! maybe BRG with black accents[:0]

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 Jan 2011 12:43

Some of the pictures show a good job from hammerite. However, I have always found that it is not that strong and that it can be chipped of with a finger nail so would question how strong it would be with stones hitting the underside of the car. How do people get around the paint not being that strong?

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staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 13 Jan 2011 14:02

For me its a case of, hammerite, stone-chip then waxoyl.

Its a lot of work and a bit more expensive but its 3 layers and does the job.[:D]

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1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

REPLIC8
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Postby REPLIC8 » 13 Jan 2011 16:18

I've not had any real problems with hammerite, whatever you use will degrade over time, at least if you get a few stone chips in hammerite it doesn't let moisture in underneath like a skin of underseal does. It's easy to touch it up once a year with a small brush as part of your maintence routine. I have found it works best if applied in warm dry conditions and leave it a couple of weeks between coats to properly cure.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
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Marsu
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Postby Marsu » 13 Jan 2011 17:16

In this part of the globe's quadrant I haven't heard of many ppl using Hammerite. Instead most are using POR15 or the local KBS equivalent.

These coatings don't chip and after full curing can be etched with an acid primer that supports application of 1 or 2 pack top-coating systems comprising stone/chip/sound-deadener and body colour.

As there are always sections on a monocoque/unitary body shell that cannot be effectively covered through convetional spray application I have then applied a product called [url="http://ppcco.com.au/coatings_sw2.htm"]SW 2 Protective Oil[/url] that is sold by the Aus POR15 distributor, followed by fish oil and then a "home brew waxoyl".

Word of warning - if you apply this last step then be VERY careful when using an oxy torch!

rosey
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Postby rosey » 13 Jan 2011 17:28

In my experience Hammerite isn't flexible enough for car bodywork and is easily chipped, it's also designed to work best on rusty metal as the chemical process binds the paint to the converted rust, it doesn't bind properly to clean rust-free metal.
I have got some POR15 from Frost for the purple Grinnal's new floor, and sill and A post and front flitch etc...[B)]

"Do or Do not, there is no try" - Yoda

1981 Purple Grinnal 2.0L
1980 TR7 Persian Aqua Drophead.
Jaguar X Type in pillar box red!

yorkens
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Postby yorkens » 13 Jan 2011 23:28

Hammerite paint is indeed very brittle and has very poor adhesion to clean metal, and worst of all it´s useless as a rust inhibitor IMO; all the parts i´ve painted, (including some test plates) whether slightly rusted or with virtually no rust all ended up with paint bulging, or fine hairline/crazing marks, respectively, and without even being exposed to the elements!

Repainting with different colours of paint, as Alansti comments, is ideal to ensure proper coverage; all the underside and wheel arches of my car are brush painted with alternate coats of anti-rust black and white paint (of the same make) The final coat is white, then i´ve brushed on some Hammerite underbody/waxoyl (the black stuff), so when it eventually wears off, light patches will appear, letting me know it´s tjme for a re brush, hopefully

I will finally spray on some Hammerite underbody to even out the finish, but i would strongly recommend anyone (before, or after under sealing) to go over all the nooks and crannies in their wheel arches by brush, the only way to get the stuff where you most need it!
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020370.jpg[/img][/img]
Headlamp pod spring sandblasted + Hammerite rust metal paint... dissapointing
[img][IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k438/yorkens/L1020628.jpg[/img][/img]
My recommendation, including home made multi- angle brush, instantly adjustable.

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 14 Jan 2011 12:54

The first thing I ever had experience of painted in Hammerite was my Raleigh Chopper (push bike) - my Dad did it for me as he did up an old bike for my bithday. Sob sob.

Anyhow. Looked great, scratch and chip resistance was pants.

I continued using the product into motorbike and car ownership. I have never, ever, ever been happy with it, unless the item was not used. Once it was exposed to the vigours of everyday life it fell off and the item rusted.

I won't ever use it on anything I want to protect now. Just on something I want to look clean.

For the underside of your car there are lots more modern (better)products for actual protection. If I want it to be protected and also look good, then my preference is stone chip followed by 2 pack paint. If it's for rust protection there's waxoil, but for the cavities the Waxoil doesn't flow, and I prefer Ensis fluid as it's much more searching.

If you don't use your painted component / car very much, then I'm sure the Hammerite will be fine. If you want to use it a bit more, then reconsider.

From my practical personal experience I would say Hammerite is rubbish as a 'paint and forget' product. And now I'm thinking about it, it's only because of their penetrative (effective) marketing techniques that it's usually the only choice on the shelves (or it was when we were growing up).

Rant, rant, rant!

Shaun

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staningrimsby
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Postby staningrimsby » 14 Jan 2011 12:59

Im pleased you got that off your chest Shaun, i bet you fell loads better now don't you.[;)]

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1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 14 Jan 2011 21:50

lol.

Yeah! There I was, eating my prawn sarnie at my desk, next thing I'm on one! I went out of my office for a walk round the building after that - needed to come down![:D]

I don't like Hammerite do I?

Shaun

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