Anonymous

TR7 Heater, why is mine so crap

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Post Reply
Edward
Wedgling
Posts: 5
Joined: 26 Dec 2006 20:54
Location:
Contact:

Postby Edward » 10 Nov 2010 03:29

Hello Casper, My original heater core provided excellent heat. When I replaced the core with an aftermarket replacement the heater never worked as well. I think your problem might be faulty or incorrect temperature thermostat as your temperature gauge should read higher.
Regards, Ed

PeterTR7V8
TRemendous
Posts: 2914
Joined: 10 Jun 2008 02:22
Location: New Zealand
Contact:

Postby PeterTR7V8 » 10 Nov 2010 04:28

A big welcome to the forum!

Get yourself an inexpensive infrared heat sensor & take a reading of your thermostat housing. It should get up around 95C/205F. If your gauge is reading 1/4 at that temp then replace the sender. If it isn't getting up to that temp then change your thermostat. TR7 thermos have a 'foot' on the bottom that affects the flow rate/direction & quite often they are replaced with normal thermostats that don't work as well. Check this thread... http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... C_ID=13036

Image

The map: http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548

HowardB
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 270
Joined: 01 Nov 2007 00:37
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby HowardB » 10 Nov 2010 06:32

If its anything like mine it should be able to keep you warm with the hood down in autumn/spring without any difficulty

Dave Dyer
Swagester
Posts: 602
Joined: 19 Nov 2005 16:50
Location: Shropshire UK

Postby Dave Dyer » 10 Nov 2010 08:37

Hi Casper,

All the TR7's I've owned over the last 26 years (Theres been 12!) the temperature gauge has always been around the quarter mark, so I wouldn't worry about that bit, but the lack of heat could be a blocked heater core, its like a small radiator thats plummed into the cooling circuit, you could disconnect the 2 water hoses going to it and put a hose pipe into one of the heater pipes and see what the flows like comming out of the other pipe!

Or if your sure your car is running at a low temperature, then maybe the thermostat is missing, someone might have removed it to 'cure' an overheating problem, especially if you've just bought the car!

Cheers, Dave

John Clancy
TRiffic
Posts: 1666
Joined: 07 Jan 2005 12:31
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby John Clancy » 10 Nov 2010 08:59

Agree with Dave, the TR7 heater gauge only ever gets around the quarter mark. I did have one gauge that sat around the half way point but it was just the gauge or sender unit (or combination of both) causing this anomaly.

When I first had my TR7 the heater was crap. Didn't even blow out luke warm air so you're doing better than I did at first. Had a replacement about 12 years ago that managed luke warm air but that one leaked immediately and was replaced by the present heater which is bloody hot!

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

busheytrader
TRemendous
Posts: 3145
Joined: 14 Oct 2007 17:49
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby busheytrader » 10 Nov 2010 09:50

Temp gauge 1/4 mark was normal when I had a 2.0L engine and the heater worked great.

The original heater would be 33 years old now so a good flush and backflush would do no harm. Taking off the fresh air scoop at the rear of the engine bay enables you to get at the hoses.

As per Peter a cheap infra red sensor (Maplins do them cheap in the UK) is a good idea.
Image
These are very useful at chasing round hot or cold spots in the cooling system. Just point it at a hose or thermostat housing.

Adam



Image Image

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

jeffremj
Wedgista
Posts: 1285
Joined: 02 Jan 2005 22:47
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby jeffremj » 10 Nov 2010 10:17

IIRC, the 2 seater TR7 heater system is exactly the same as that for the old Austin Princess 5 seater, so is more than enough. It should be very hot!

UKPhilTR7
TRiffic
Posts: 1931
Joined: 24 Mar 2005 12:52
Location: West Midlands, England

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 10 Nov 2010 11:55

Have you thought about changing if for a new smaller heater system that has A/C like they sell in places like carbuildersolutions?

Image Image

Beans
TRemendous
Posts: 7797
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 19:29
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Postby Beans » 10 Nov 2010 16:56

Agree with the rest, TR7 heater is more then adequate.
Maybe the previous owner disconnected it because it was leaking ?

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8917
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 11 Nov 2010 01:33

Although my temp gauge reads 1/4 to 1/3 the heater puts out plenty of heat, even in November. Your heater core is probably partially plug with gunk. I've seen pictures of some pretty plugged ones. When I had mine out for foam replacement I flushed it with CLR solution. Pretty strong stuff that you owuldn't want to leave too long in unless it's pretty ugly.

http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
Image

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 195 guests

cron