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slave rebuild

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geevee
Wedgling
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slave rebuild

Postby geevee » 11 May 2008 04:13

I have a leaky slave cylinder that I was going to replace with one I bought off e-bay some time ago. when I went to replace the unit I realized they are different! the bore looks the same so I think I will use the parts from the new one to rebuild the old failed slave. the new unit has a circlip to hold the piston in, the old one doesn't appear to have a clip. How do I dissasemble both units? do you see any problem using the parts from one to rebuild the other? any tips you can offer will be appreciated. Also there seems to be some oil leaks at the front of the oil pan but because of the skid plate I don't see how I can reach these pan bolts to tighten them if needed.

thanks, Gary.

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 11 May 2008 04:45

<font color="red"><i><b>DUD!? U'se was talkin' about the clutch slave cylinder?</b></i></font id="red">

GV,

They all have C-clips, but they are somewhat difficult to install.

Don't put the new parts in an old cylinder. They collect water in the bottom of the cylinders and start to pit the metal. That is why they fail.

Here, go to this [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Rear%20Brakes.html"]page[/url] and see if the information will help. Click on the photos to make them larger.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay
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saabfast
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Postby saabfast » 11 May 2008 08:26

geevee, I recently rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder and similarly found that the diagrams showed the circlip to hold the piston in but my unit did not have one fitted or a groove for it. In the rebuild I just cleaned it all, put the new seals on and inserted the circlip in case it might do something if necessary, but I assume that the stroke should not be sufficient to need it to retain the piston (or maybe its travel is limited by the movement of the clutch arm).

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC
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Nightrunner
Wedgling
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Postby Nightrunner » 15 May 2008 17:45

You can certainly swap around the metal parts from one to another but always get a rebuild kit so you'll have new seals. If the old cyl is badly pitted, then its scrap. Light pitting is acceptable. But for any hydraulic rebuild on the car, get a hone and use your power drill to hone the cylinder for proper sealing surface. Cleaning it is not enough. Motor oil will sub for cutting oil in a pinch. Move the hone in and out as its turning to create criss-cross scratch pattern. It will be a short lived repair if you don't hone it. If you don't want to hone it, then go get a new/rebuilt cylinder and bolt it in.

Best of luck
Scott

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