tr7triumph.com

My TR7 flunked safety inspection and got parked in the garage pending my saving enough $$ to get it fixed -- 16 years ago! Now things are looking up and I've been putting all-new brakes on it, and this weekend when I took off the RH rear wheel I found that the last mechanic who worked back there sheared the heads off both the countersunk screws holding the drum to the hub. I drilled out the screws as best I could but of course I did some damage to the threads before I was finished. I figured VicBrit would have new hubs and they do -- for around $400 each! I haven't looked at the other side but I'm assuming the worst over there, too. So I'd appreciate any opinions -- drill oversize and put in helicoils, or just spend the money on new parts? (None on eBay that I can spot, and as I recall the only Wedge in the local junkyard was a 5-speed, which the parts books say has a different hub than my 4-speed.)

- Steve Richardson
St Louis MO
76 TR7 (original owner)

The only thing the countersunks do is hold on the drum so it doesn't fall off when the wheel is removed. I would tap it to next bigger size. I stripped the phillips on the head trying to get one off (only one per side on 5 speed). I drilled out the head and was able to remove screw with gas pliers. I got replacements from local fastener supplier with allen heads. Very positive tool contact. 100% better. Costs, 51 cents including tax.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

FI is correct. The screws are not necessary if you drive your car with the wheels on. Put that $400. towards other needed parts for your car.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Good to know -- thanks! I'll bet the screws were only there to keep the drums from falling off on the original assembly line until the road wheels were fitted. They didn't look very robust, and they drilled mighty easily -- definitely not high-strength steel.

- Steve Richardson
St Louis MO
76 TR7 (original owner)

Here is a tip for the future to any one reading this and comes across the same problem.Before you try to undo the screws give the drum face a couple of good wacks on top of the screw. This tends to loosen up the screw taper and makes the screw easier to undo.If you own an impact driver this can make the job even easier.If in the eventuallaty the screw head is already rounded off use a cntre punch to make an indent in the screw and tap the head of the scew with the centre punch it damges the screw head but this doesnt really matter if the head is already rounded off.

Quote 'FI is correct. The screws are not necessary if you drive your car with the wheels on.'

Never tried without, must make the gearing rather low![:D]

A further tip, coat the screw threads with a brake lubricant such as Copperease before putting them in, stops them rusting in and much easier to remove in future.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC

Correct, screws only hold drum on with wheel off. If concerned, run a bottom threading tap of correct size into bottom of hole to clean threads and install fresh fastener. Way cheaper than a new axel.

New screws come with some brake kits (VB).