problem with n/s headlight

[linda]

Headlamp stuck half way up, cleaned all wire connections, now operating up and down but not together with other lamp (one up, one down, then the other way round), lamps not synchronized. Please can someone tell us how to get them both up and down at the same time. Tara is a 1980 DHC , Thanks Linda

[Beans]

Welcome to the wonderful wedge world [:D]

I'd start with rasing/lowering both headlamps (one full cycle) by hand, and see what happens after that.
You'll have to disconnect the wires to do this (red connectors in engine compartment). Turn knob on the underside of the headlamp motors clockwise (viewed from below).
If that doesn't work I'm afraid you'll have to dismantle the lot ...

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[TR Tony]

Hi Linda,

Try as Beans suggests, disconnect & use the manual knob on the bottom of the motor to get each lamp back to normal closed position. Then reconnect (with main headlamp switch in off position), then turn the main switch on & see what happens!

If the lights are still not synchronised check all your connections again. There are diodes in each limit switch that are supposed to stop the lamps getting out of synch. Have you got the connections to the limit switches the right way round?

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

[KRenken]

Has any work been done to the wiring harness for the motor? I bought a rebuilt motor assembly once and the wires into the limit switch were reversed and the motor actually spun in the wrong direction. There is a trip lever in the lift mechanism that is pushed out of the way as the headlights lower. If the motor is spinning in the wrong direction that lever will bind and stop the motor.

Kimmit

1980 DHC
GM 3.8 v6 fi

[linda]

Hi, Thanks to all of you for replying, my husband spent hours on this and for now has given up and has disconnected the wires on the problem side because it just kept bouncing up and down, sort of winking as he drove along and said lots of folk were laughing, glad i wasnt driving her. so now i have no main lights but luckily i dont drive her at night. He thinks we will have to get a new motor for that side. It was always a bit odd right from when we bought her a year ago, with a slight amount of play when down, unlike the other one which was rock solid when down. Thanks again all, have fun in your Wedges, Linda x

[John Clancy]

I suppose the liberal spraying with WD40 all over the motor and electricals has been tried in this case? About 10 years ago I went through a spasm of winking whilst driving for no reason. I could stop the lights winking out of sync' (i.e. one up, one down) by putting the headlight switch into the 'on' position whereupon both pods came up and both headlights on. I suspect you wouldn't get this with your problem as one goes up when the other goes down. However, a good WD40 spraying under both headlight lift/motor mechanism areas sorted the problem.

Another possible cause could be a dodgy headlight switch. They're rubbish so I always carry a spare.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Beans]

Headlight swithches are actually pretty good (in nearly 20 years of TR7 driving I've never had one fail on me).
They do have a tendency to accumulate a lot of dust and dirt, thus causing some problems. But they can be dismantled for cleaning. Which I do every few years. Clean with a good contact cleaner and very lightly lubricate the contacts with a conductive grease.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[Hasbeen]

Make sure you continue to use those old original switches Beans, my
last new one was shot after just a 23Km drive. They have white
plastic pins, which operate the copper strips, & deform at far too
low a temperature. If you have any old switches, make sure you take
the little black pins out to keep, before you discard the rest.

Unfortunately I cannibalised all the old black pins from my spares,
doing the 8s switches. Fortunately, a mate has a jewelers lathe so
I could turn up, little brass pins, [they are insulated by the rest
of the plastic switch], & relayed everything those switches are used
for.

Hasbeen

[Beans]

I'll sure do that [;)]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[humanoid]

Beans, see if the link below helps you out, not sure if you've seen it yet.

http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/S ... round.html

[humanoid]

Ooops, my last post was intended for Linda, sorry, Beans.

[linda]

Hi thanks for the HEADLIGHT SURROUND item. This is getting very complex, what is happening now is that even though steve has disconnected the wires to the problem headlight and wound it back down, it just pops half way up when it feels like it, Steve says there is a spring that makes it keep popping up and has put some insulating tape over the top to stop it, but the tape is straining as the light seems to want to have its way and be half way up again. Also, when i drove it the other day , ( before the black tape) it popped half way up when i slammed the door shut before starting the engine, can you make out what new part we need, is it the actuator or motor or what, please advise if you can, Many Thanks, Linda x

[Beans]

Before you start spending money on parts I would suggest you first dismantle the lot (including motors) to see if somethings wrong inside. Also check the head light switch internals for dirt or wear.
I know not the easiest of jobs but if you work methodical, it shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck [;)]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[Vino79TR7]

Hi Linda, sounds like you’re being bombarded with different views on what to do…here’s mine if you’re listening.

First get a shop manual with good drawing. Its great we can all give you advice but it’s too difficult to follow instructions over the Internet. Personally I’m a visual person and I’m not that smart…draw me a picture every time!

Next, if it’s not too late (but it sounds like it) DON’T TAKE ANYTHING APART! Yet. You’re probably okay if your husband only disconnected power to the lights.

When I first got my TR7 lights hadn’t worked in years. The way I’d approach this problem: It’s either an electrical problem or a mechanical problem. Since the lights went up and down manually, with no binding, operated smoothly and no visible, missing or broken springs, when compared to a drawing...it wasnt mechanical. these motors are really stonge...apply power and you'd think its mechanical.

Second, when you said the lights were not operating equally…well power is fed to both lights equally so they should always operate equally. Makes me think electrical problem. You say the lights operated when you slammed the door (before even turning on the lights)…making me think a short is happening some where – this has to be electrical.

Before taking anything apart, do the simple stuff first. Something might be lose causing the light to do this…turn lights (reconnect power) on and listen for electrical arching (sparking). Look for any burnt wires. Smell around for burnt. Touch wires and relays for anything hot or warm. Do this first with out moving wires then repeat after moving wires.

Your in the UK…you have different wiring…my manual covers your car. What year is it? What model?

On my car each light is controlled by one relay. Both relays get power via “head lamp motor circuit breakerâ€￾. Since your lights are operating (working but not working correctly) I would think your problem is some place past this circit breaker and the lights.

In fact I’d say your problem is either in the wiring after this circuit breaker (i.e a short some place between the breaker and the lights) or the light relays.

I got to teach a class now…I’ll be back.

this maybe a simple fix.

-Vino

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Hi, linda,

You can download a copy of the TR7 shop manual [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/wa/default?user=jclaythompson&templatefn=FileSharing4.html&xmlfn=TKDocument.4.xml&sitefn=RootSite.xml&aff=consumer&cty=US&lang=en"]here.[/url]

Just open the Public Articles and download the TR7man.pdf file..

I have not read all of the post in this topic, but it sounds like to me that your sliding stop switch is loose or has a bad connection, or a frayed wire that rubs sometimes (like when you slam a door!) and then moves away again. My daughter had a short like that in her Mustang. Took me several weeks to ind that one!

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay