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<b><font color="blue">I have a bad vibration on my car at the moment that goes through the drivers seat. The guy looking at my car said that it might be the bearings in the axel on the drivers side, gone.
I was wondering how easy it would be to replace these?</font id="blue"></b>

Phil,i just did this. If you have the 5 speed axle look at my thread
under tr8/v8 "half shaft retaining collar woe".Getting the shafts
out is easy,the retaining collar is the tricky bit! I cut it off
with a torch! You will need a press to force new retainer on.

See ya. Paul

Might be worth checking the propshaft aswell for any up and down movement, or clonking at each end.
Cheers
Phil

1979 TR7V8 FHC 3.9 Litre
19 years of tinkering and tuning...... So Far!
Better to burn out than fade away.

As it is fairly easy to check if the bearing realy is gone, first check for play (put axle stands under axle and see if you can move the wheel up and down, make sure wheel bolts are tight[:I]).
If there isn't, check prop shaft for wear on the CV (or UJ joints depending on prop).

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Hi Phil,
Normaly a shot wheel bearing will be accompanyed by noise, a droning type noise. As Phil said i would check your prop shaft or maybe something as easy as wheel balance, if you feel it through the car (driver seat) than that is classic rear wheel balance. Or poss colapsed rear gearbox mount allowing the prop to run at a un natual angle.
How bad is it [?] is it slight or does it loosen fillings in your teeth [;)]
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6 WILL BE ON THE ROAD VERY SOON!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

<b><font color="blue">To tell you the truth I think it may be the prop. I was having a tow to the garage where she is now for work and I didn't feel anything, (engine was running but not in gear).
The guy at the garage done the tune and said that when he drove her that is when the bad vibrations come.</font id="blue"></b>

Hmm - towing the 5 speed box is a very bad idea! The gears are being turned by the prop shaft - but the oil pump is not turning and the box is starved of lubricant! Hope it was only a short distance - or you have the 4 speed box.

Reach in and grab the gear shift by the shaft. Move it up and down and side to side.

If it moves, your shift housing bushings are shot and letting the shift housing ride on the prop.

If you want to be sure, get under the car and see if you can move the shifter housing with you hand.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

... Hope it was only a short distance - or you have the 4 speed box ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Lubrication wise there's absolutely no difference in towing a 4 or 5 speed TR7. In both cases towing the car is no problem as long as you drive at sensible speeds and don't tow it from one end of the country to the other. Although over here, even that wouldn't be a problem [:D]
While towing there's no load on the bearings.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

<font color="blue"><b>When the car was being towed, the engine was running but not in gear. My dad was going at 40 mph all the way for about 2 miles, but in the Tr it felt like we were going around 90 mph lol[:D]</b></font id="blue">