tr7triumph.com

Thanks for advice on spanner size for this job. Can it be done without removing carbs/inlet manifold? Looks pretty impossible with them in place! What's the secret?

Remove fresh air duct (obvious) and the dizzy cap.
After that it will be fairly easy to take it out.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Absolute pain in the ass!!! I cut an 11mm spanner down to 3" long from the ring end. 11mm is almost the same as 7/16 i think, i didn't cut a 7/16 in half is because they are harder to aquire nowadays since we live in a metric world. I also found a small box spanner which slipped over the top of it to give me more leverage. And now it is off without taking anything off apart from the dizzy cap. I'm now looking forward in geting it back on again [V]

Half moon spanner is the tool to use here ...



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Very awkward but not really that difficult. With the air duct off it's not too bad to get at. certainly better than the bl**dy intake manifold bolts!
Take a digital pic or make notes of the exact direction that the rotor points before removing the distributor. If you put it back one tooth out you will have problems.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Thanks for all of that. Today it seemed rather easier! (still hard to get at, but at least do-able) Removed distributor, fitted optronics innards and replaced all in a couple of hours - just got to sort out the control module and timing now.