tr7triumph.com

From ebay yes. Got it for about 40GBP

"This item is a TR7 Lumenition electronic ignition with distributor that as a new motor arm and cap. It is in good working order ready to fit when recieved"

Next - an oil filter, oil, and possibly an air filter. But i'm changing to KN filters so I may delay with that. Going on the road in MARCH!![8D]

Hi Orophin,
Good idea with the lumenition kit saves doing those horrible AC Delco points. Good luck with your target date [;)]
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

You got that for a good price if it's all working as claimed.

I have Lumenition on my FHC, very good, haven't touched it since it was installed.

Roll on March[:)]

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

Just remember when electronic ignitions like the Lumenition and Petronix [and Lucas Opus] stop working, you're stranded unless you have internal parts and/or another distributor. At least with a points system, you usually just need to gap and/or replace the points, and you're on your way.

When the Lucas electronic ignition died on my '78 Spitfire, I went to a shop and picked up a used distributor from an MGB. I once used the distributor from a Sunbeam Imp [their name in the US] for my Land Rover II-A when the copper bushing wore out in the distributor. When I purchased my '78 MGB in 1998, it came with a swapped out points distributor from a LBC that no one could figure out. No problem, because just kept going and going....

Jeff

Jeffrey Aronson
P.O. Box 90
Vinalhaven, ME 04863
USA
'80 TR-7 Spider
'66 Land Rover Series II-A [2]
'66 Corvair Monza

I'll make sure I have breakdown cover then lol!! I'm sure it'll be okay. But what I need to know it what wires go where? First time i've installed an ignition system.

Have a look at this:

http://www.denaploy.co.uk/autocar/tb05.html

Good luck!

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

Hey cheers. Just what I needed, I've got my weekend planned out hehehe

Right - what is the best way to take off the old distributor? I've just had a look at it, and i'm amazed how difficult it looks, as the bolts are almost impossible to get too [V]

Your advice please!

It's a pig getting at those bolts. The BL dealers had a special spanner with an L shaped handle to undo them!

It can be done with ordinary tools - anyone got any clever tips?

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

With a little research, i found they issues what is called a service tool, no 349 no something with was spanner cut on half...leaving the ring bit. I also think you may have to take off the airbox stuff. What size bolts are they? I can make the tool at work then. Bad setup isn't it!!!

My clever tip is to cut down a spanner to about 3" long.You'll need
to break bolts grip with a long one for leverage,then 3" will be
enough to finish the job - careful now,oooh,err missus!
Its still awkward,but its the only way to access bolts and then you
only get a small degree turn at a time.Oh,when you get to resite
these bloody(you too will explete!)bolts,one of those magnetic wands
will be really useful to help find the hole.
Once you've done it,you will not want to do it again!

Another top tip is to get Bobsport to do it!



























See ya. Paul

Another top tip i just remembered -
The power module has to be earthed to the car,i.e.the bulkhead/inner
wings.If you put a secret switch on this earth,it makes a good
immobiliser.The engine will spin over,but will not fire up.

See ya. Paul

<b><font color="blue">I must admit that I had the points taken of my TR when I first got her and replaced it for an electronic kit from S&S and I must admit that I have not regretted it. I also replaced the air filter for K&N's and I must admit that it was one of the best things that I have done. Before the filters were changed she used to run like a dog, but now with the K&N's she really runs better. Go for it replace them and you will not look back I can promise</font id="blue"></b>.

Hmmm...just embarking on same mission! Can you tell me what size the distributor retaining bolts are? Suspect 7/16", but not sure, and certainly can't see them coming out easily. How do you get a long spanner in there to loosen initially before using shortened spanner? Looks pretty difficult to me! (I'm used to Minis!)

If I recall 10mm worked for me.
I'm not 100% sure but give a 10 a try.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U