tr7triumph.com

Hi, I am new on this forum but I frequent the VW aircooled forums a lot. I have a chance to buy a 1977 TR7 from a friend who has had it for a while but doesn't like it because it is to small. She really isn't a car person anyway. She wants 1500 for it. It runs well and everything works and I think I can get it for 750. What is a decent price to pay for a 1977 TR7 in good shape. I know it is hard to say without seeing the car but I just want a ball park figure so I don't cheat her or myself! Thanks in advance.

You can do a search on this forum about tips on buying a TR7 or check buying advice on home page. If it's running well as you say the thing to be concerned about is how has it faired with rust. While wheel well rust on the lip is pretty easy to see check closely under the sills (beneath the doors) and where the rear lower suspension links attach to the body as these areas are more difficult and expensive to fix. If these pass, the her price is a good one. I'd grag it.

I see you're from Ione. My Spider spent it's life around Stockton, not that far away. It was totally rust free except for the odd bolt and nut and the odd spot of surface rust on the edge here and there.

The car is over 30 years old and depending on the maintenance it's received over the years it may need some attention as you drive it. Change fluids and clean all electrical connections and seal with dielectric grease. As with any 30 year old car it requires periodic maintenance not like current cars which are relatively maintenance free. As such it's more of an enthusiasts car meant for those who don't mind rolling up their sleeves and doing it themselves. Don't get me wrong, it's a reliable car if looked after. Lot's of help on line and books available, relatively cheap parts, most parts are available.

(By the way, I had a '69 and a '70 Beetle in the 70's I used as a work vehicle that I was going to turn into an Aztec 7 but never got to it.) I obviously got my wedge fix from the TR7 which I also wanted in the 70's.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Rust is the enemy - look at the front suspension 'turrets' inside the engine bay and under the front wings - and as above - rear suspension pick-up points - and check the fuel tank! They rust badly and are not cheap. If it's not had a new one - then it WILL be needing one, although at that age it probably has had a new one fitted already. The mechanicals and the electricals are all quite fragile - but fixable. Rust kills the car.

I second that. £1500 isn't bad you know if you are confident it's in good condition. What is it? FHC or a DHC? 2L? Colour? Mileage? If it's in good nick, you'll be laughing if you get it for £750. [:D]

Thanks guys for your input. I know about rust, being a VW aircooled nut, rust is the enemy of the beetle, even more so than most cars because of the way it is built.

I also have found, just yesterday, a 1982 TR7, white in color. Original miles 10,000(that's correct, 10,000 original miles verified). The car was setting for a long time, and just recently was put back into service and had lots of things done to it including new calipers and runs like a top. I haven't had time to go over it but it does have a cracked front bumper, however the headlights go up and down the way they should, all lights work, everything works actually. Don't know what they want for it yet and am going to go see it today. Are the newer models more desirable than the older ones? I.E.: This 1982 vs the 1977? Did they get better as they went along or worse? As you can tell I know next to nothing about these cars except I have wanted to own one for quite some time now!

All 1977 TR7s were FHCs!

Go with the 82 if it is in good shape. You didn't say if it was FHC or DHC. There were many improvements in the TR7s/8s in the middle of the 1980 year run.

Please define DHC and FHC. To show you how dumb I am I don't know what those terms mean. [:)]

FHC = Fixed Head Coupe or TIN TOP

DHC = Drop Head coupe or RAG TOP

Gary

Eeyore rides again !!

EOR14W - Persian Aqua 2L Dhc, Now rebuilt and looking lovely - Sprint engine being prepared!

The models got alot better as time went on. Went to a better factory and Leyland did a better job on them. So I would go the 82 any day! It is a FHC or DHC then? And oh yes, suddenly remembered all 1977s are indeed FHC's jclay. [;)]

Later cars had the Rover 5 speed gearbox - and matching stronger back axle with bigger brakes. Also better build standard - although after all these years not sure if that matters now. DHC is the more desireable car for summer use - but wouldn't fancy it in winter!

Thanks again guys. I had pretty much decided to go with the '82. I will go look at it today and let you know what kind of shape it is in, overall.

Ok, don't know if any of you are still watching this thread but I am going to look at the 1982 tomorrow(Wed, 2/6/2008) and will decide if I want it. A friend owns it and will sell it to me cheap, and I mean cheap. So, unless it is a total basket case I will probably take it. I will use this oportunity to learn about the triumph. They were a big deal when I was a kid, eveyone wanted a trumph or Austin Healy(dates me)and I hope this particular machine is as good as the PO says it is. Pictures will follow. Thanks for the help and I will be picking your brains often if you let me.

Calex-good luck and I hope you get it,if it is everything you think it should be,condition-wise. When I bought mine,I knew nothing about these cars (and still don't,lol),but I've been learning as I go,and always liked them from early on. The combined knowledge of the folks on this board has helped me immensely when it comes to repairs, whether big or small.

And they have really cool pics,too![:D]

Fiveliters, maybe you can help me. Actually the car is a 1980, not 82 as I was led to believe, but it does have only 10,103 original miles(verified)on the car. It is the 4 banger and has dual stromberg(I think)carbs on it. Someone told me that you have to put some type of oil in the top of these carbs periodically but they didn't know what type. Perhaps you, or someone else on this forum, knows the type of oil they are talking about.The price of this 1980, white, soft top convertible(I guess that would be a DHC) is $950(she is a friend). This also has the 5 speed box, which I understand makes a slightly better car out of them. I love the way they look. Pictures of the car soon. Thanks in advance.

A steal of a deal if it's in any kind of good shape. Being an '80 it was probably made at the Triumph Canley factory or if the 8th character in the VIN is an A made in the Rover (the last of the three) factory.

A lot of people put 3-in-1 sewing machine oil in the carbs as an easy to get oil although you can get oil specifically for them but not necessary. Basically the oil is used as a damper for the rise and fall of the piston and it's viscosity regulates how quickly the piston responds to pressure variants in the carb. The 5th speed is over drive (great for freeway driving) and the transmission is a Rover unit which could take the stress of up to 300hp so is greatly understressed. The shift into second can be balky when cold so change the gear oil to ATF or GM or Pennzoil Synthetic gearlube if you find this to be so. That's a start. The search feature on this forum will find you answers to most of your questions but don't be afraid, as a newbie to ask any questions. We all started at square one at one time.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra