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I know that this is most likely in the archives but if all we did was consult the archives we would have nothing to chat about so here goes.

I have picked up a gear reduction starter for my FHC to replace the old lump. I took a look today and it appears the headers will have to come off to access the rotten thing. Is this correct?

Cheers,
Rich

BTW: My viscous coupling recently packed it in and when I pulled it off I found the idler pulley has had it as well so I took the leap and trashed the whole works. I wired an electric fan up to a thermostatic switch in the upper rad hose, and fitted a short belt to drive the alternator. I am thrilled with this setup as the engine runs much more smoothly and with our winter weather the fan hardly ever switches on. Time will tell if it provides enough cooling in the summer but I am certainly happy with it so far. Now that I know it's worth keeping the next step will be to fit a relay to the circuit as it is currently using the fog light circuit.

1975 TR7 ACL764U

In the factory manual (not the Haynes manual which seems to leave alot out) you will see a cutaway for the idle pulley. The bearings can indeed be replaced in that thing. I haven't done it yet....but I might get a spare to dismantle and rebuild as this comes up alot.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver</i>

I know that this is most likely in the archives but if all we did was consult the archives we would have nothing to chat about so here goes.

I have picked up a gear reduction starter for my FHC to replace the old lump. I took a look today and it appears the headers will have to come off to access the rotten thing. Is this correct?

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes you probably have to take off headers. I had to take off my exhaust as the large California cat had to come down so I could pull off the heat sheild so I could undo the cables. (I left it hanging on the rear hanger). I built my own heat shield from a sheet of aluminum based on a mirror image of a chevy V8 heat shield I "borrowed" from Lordco. I'm trying to find a copper spade connector for the copper blade on the new starter as the original one is too big. I will then post on my blog.

Anyone know were I can get a smaller copper spade connector? I've tried all the local auto parts houses, perused through the auto wreckers for an hour to no avail. Next are marine stores.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Try here! http://www.britishwiring.com/

On my UK car - starter changes easily without disturbing the standard exhaust manifold or system. It makes access a little difficult but by no means impossible.

Unintentionally,the first thing I did to my 75 when I got it was to have the started changed! I was taking it to the garage for inspection,and I stalled out on the street. Simply would not start,no matter what. Was towed to the garage,and fortunately,a starter/alternator place had the exact starter there. My mechanic put it in and got me back on the road,but at no point did he ever tinker with the header or exhaust (it was done on a lift,if that matters).

75s did not have the catalytic convector. It has to be removed to change the starter.

Cat is a ghastly thing - do you HAVE to keep it in there ?

Sounds good, I will have a go at changing the starter with the exhaust in place. I can always pull it if necessary.
It seems things are consistent, I noticed water weeping out of the water pump "window" yesterday. Of course it wasn't leaking a couple of months ago when I had the carbs off! sigh*...This is like restoration by a thousand cuts.[:(]

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Ah, the pleasures of a rolling restoration. You get to drive in between the constant little fixin' o' things. The other option is a complete tear down and restoration before you get discouraged with the project. You pays your money and you takes your chances.[8D]

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Not an option i'm afraid as the TR is my daily driver.

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Rich,

As far as the water pump, if you prepare everything in advance, it is not a hard job. Make some studs like these (1" longer bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut across the top for a screw driver) and you have the advantage of removing the manifold/carbs together and with the help on another person to start the two top bolts you can put it on very easily. PS, they work better in the bottom two inside holes, experience there!




As you can see, they will hold the gasket in place, put any sealant on it just before you are ready to install the manifold. Also, if you put three tiny little drops of super glue on the water O-ring seal, you can attach it to the manifold and just use the studs to guide everything into place. Have the second person reach across the top of the engine from the other side and start the top two bolts. Then you can install the other two bolts, use a flat head screw driver to remove the studs and put in the last two.

Rent a slide hammer to remove the water pump and the brass ring at the bottom if it doesn't come out with the pump. You don't even have to worry about the right hand thread bolt in the top of the pump.

There are two really important things to remember. 1. Clean the mating surfaces of the pump cover and the surface on the block very well. You will have to measure the gap between them before you install the gaskets. You will need the distance to select the proper gasket pac.

2. Remember to turn the pump when you seat it into the to hole in the block so that it will slide into the splines on the jack shaft.

If you have everything clean and laid out properly, the whole process shouldn't take more than a week-end.

PS. Check the left side of the radiator about 2" down the side and see if there is a hole there with a switch sticking out. You can use this switch to run your fans. If the hole is pluged, remove the plug and fit the sensor and o-ring. I am not sure if the locking bracket is still available. check page 61 of VB catalog in the very top of the illustration for the sensor.

Thanks for the tips Jclay!
The one about the slotted studs should make the job a bit easier.
I do have a thermostatic switch in the fan circuit. I bought an in-hose sensor off E-bay. It fits into a beautifully machined alloy adaptor and works very well.

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U