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Central 'console' removal

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bmcecosse
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Central 'console' removal

Postby bmcecosse » 20 Jan 2008 17:12

Can anyone tell me how this is done please? I have everything undone but there is no way in h*ll it can lift up over the gearlever and the handbrake lever - and I really don't want to disturb either of them ! Fitting new carpet set - have cut the old carpet down the middle of the car and removed it, but I don't want to cut the nice new one unless I really have to!

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 20 Jan 2008 17:23

If you remove the arm rest and the gearlever it can be removed (and put back in place) with a bit of a squeeze. The handbrake lever can remain in place, although it still is a bit of a squeeze.
Removing the heater console makes it a lot easier.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 20 Jan 2008 17:28

I really don't want to fiddle with the gearlever! But thanks for coming back to me so quickly!
I wonder how they were put together in the factory - surely they didn't have the gear lever out ?

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tr8
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Postby tr8 » 20 Jan 2008 17:29

Easiest to remove or partly remove the radio console as well. I have had the same trouble and gave into removing the radio console enough that it could be swung around to one side....better that breaking the gearshift console.


Paul

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 20 Jan 2008 17:33

Radio console is already out and hanging to one side! And there is still no way I can see to get it over the two levers.


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TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 20 Jan 2008 17:35

I changed mine a while ago to fit a new trim gaiter to the gear stick surround.

I am sure that with the storage box from between the seats removed, handbrake trim/ gaiter removed, & the gear knob unscrewed, that I managed to get the gear lever trim & plastic surround off without removing the handbrake lever or gear stick itself.

It was a bit of a squeeze though, as Theo says. It can be done - just be careful!

Tony
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<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
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Beans
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Postby Beans » 20 Jan 2008 17:36

Found this picture from last year's work on the DHC

Image

As you can see almost everything inplace. Only gearlever and armrest removed. The armrest was actually removed but I put it back there for storage of screws etc ...

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 20 Jan 2008 19:50

It is easy to remove the gear shift lever.

Remove the 10 mm bolt holding on the gear lever cover. Use a flat head screwdriver to move the Torsion Spring ends off the pins on either side of the lever and lock them under the heads of the bolts mounted on the Gear Shift Housing next to the pins. WRAP a shop towel around the base of the gear shift lever to catch the Anti-rattle Plunger and the Plunger Spring. Pull the lever straight up.

Best photo I have. Remove the cup thingie at the bottom of the lever, push the springs over the bolts heads stickin' up and pull the lever out using a shop rad to cetch the spring n' plunger.

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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Jan 2008 19:42

I've taken my carpets out and put back in several times. I took out heater/radio counsel, center stuff and knob off the gear lever. Gear lever and e brake remained in the car. E brake is up and gear lever put in appropriate spot (can't recall what gear). Top down of course and you can angle the carpet in although as mentioned it is a tight fit. This is with a one piece Spider carpet. Replacements should be no problem. (relatively).

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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 22 Jan 2008 21:41

Thanks all - problem may be that the handbrake is adjusted right up and can only pull on two clicks. Came to me like that! I'm sure if I take the gear lever out the springs will go flying. Maybe I will try loosening the handbrake adjustment and see if that helps.
Thanks again all for coming back to me.

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Postby Ianftr8 » 23 Jan 2008 17:41

Rather than loosing your adjustment for the handbrake - 1.why not chock the car so it cant move-2.let off the hand brake-3 remove one of the rear wheels then take out the split pin and remove the clevis pin from the wheel end of the handbrake cable - this will allow you to pull up the handbrake lever to a much higher position.
Then undo the nut under the gear stick knob and take out the vinyl trim and gearlever gaiter - now you should have uncovered all the screws that hold the centre consul and the centre cubby box.

Refitting as the say is the reverse of this - BUT make sure you have the handbrake working correctly before you try driving anywhere.

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Postby bmcecosse » 25 Jan 2008 15:34

Fair idea to get some handbrake movement - may well try that. All the other points have already been taken care of!

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Postby bmcecosse » 27 Jan 2008 15:58

" Rather than loosing your adjustment for the handbrake - 1.why not chock the car so it cant move-2.let off the hand brake-3 remove one of the rear wheels then take out the split pin and remove the clevis pin from the wheel end of the handbrake cable - this will allow you to pull up the handbrake lever to a much higher position. ""
Ian - absolutely the best tip on the forum this year! It worked a treat - took about 2 mins to undo the clevis - handbrake then straight up in the air, console lifts straight off. Excellent. many thanks for the tip!


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Postby FI Spyder » 28 Jan 2008 03:56

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

Thanks all - problem may be that the handbrake is adjusted right up and can only pull on two clicks. Came to me like that! I'm sure if I take the gear lever out the springs will go flying. Maybe I will try loosening the handbrake adjustment and see if that helps.
Thanks again all for coming back to me.

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Two clicks might be too tight. I adjusted my Tercel handbrake to two clicks and wore out the rear brake shoes. I checked the workshop manual and it said six clicks so now it's six clicks. Not sure off the top of my head what the TR7 manual says.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 28 Jan 2008 18:28

Thats a good point, 2 clicks could just be a little to tight - the book says between four and seven clicks.

Whilst the handbrake cable is loose its probably worth checking whether it's running free and doesn't require relubricating.

Cheers
Ian

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