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Timing Chain!

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bmcecosse
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Timing Chain!

Postby bmcecosse » 17 Jan 2008 22:09

My engine has done 60,000 miles - seemingly without any problems. Nothing showing in the history file that came with the car. Will it be a good idea to renew the timing chain and the guide plates ? Or better to leave well alone! If I decide to renew - how big a hassle is it to undo the front pulley bolt ?

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paul w
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Postby paul w » 17 Jan 2008 23:01

Personaly,i would consider changing it just in case.It is not that
difficult to do.Getting the pulley off the crank needs a bit of
force,so it will be wise to remove the rad.I removed the starter and locked the flywheel with a crowbar,then you can undo the bolt with a large wrench and a bit of swearing!The pulley is located on a keyway and needs tapping and levering with some wd40.Choose the best chain
kit you can get.The new tensioner mounting plates are not as good
as the originals,so i'd reuse if its ok.In the kit from Bobsport
you get everything including gaskets and guide plates.A man of your
calibre will excell at this,i'm sure,Bmc!

See ya. Paul


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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 18 Jan 2008 01:16

Easier to lock the engine with cloth rope in one of the cylinders.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 18 Jan 2008 01:58

60,000 isn't that much for a metal timing chain as many engines have gone much longer. As long as the tensioner is working. That being said if the engine is out, change it, if it's in, leave it.

Other than that it depends on your personal take if you are the better safe than sorry type.

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Rblackadar
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Postby Rblackadar » 18 Jan 2008 05:14

Nowadays timing chains last almost for the life of the car.You got to realize that the timing chains equipped originally were good for <b>their</b> time. I myself would probably change it every 25k.Even my old 88 Alfa Milano (75 for you folks across the pond) needed its chain replaced every 20-25k. I just feel the chains that are available for the 7 are not up to the job as far as material and where they are manufactured. If it's made in China forget it....Its cheap for a reason. Shop around and get a good chain, I just picked up an AE chain made in England. Even with that quality chain on, I'll still change it often as it is a NOS off the shelf from 30 years ago. The chains made back then don't have all the technological advances in design and metallurgy as they do nowadays. So overall, not a big job at all....I'm about to do mine as soon as it warms up. I still say around 25 k is good interval. Some people might say i have 80k on mine and have had no problems....That's great!!! I just think I'd like to play it safe.

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Postby 73super » 18 Jan 2008 12:25

I know the book calls for changing it every 25K, but that just seems like such a short life span for a timing chain. I usually go double that, but might check it from time to time. As stated, it's all personal comfort level.

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 18 Jan 2008 16:01

Actually "the book" (as in BL workshop manual) doesn't mention changing the chain at all [8)]
Personal experience is that good ones last for upto 200.000 miles without attention (on a daily driver that covered 20.000 miles/year)
Never a bad idea to check tensioner and guide once every few years.

And order an Iwiss or other good quality chain.

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Postby Henk » 18 Jan 2008 16:58

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Beans</i>

Actually "the book" (as in BL workshop manual) doesn't mention changing the chain at all [8)]
Personal experience is that good ones last for upto 200.000 miles without attention (on a daily driver that covered 20.000 miles/year)
Never a bad idea to check tensioner and guide once every few years.

Nice to hear.....euh, read.
I can wait a little longer now.
I'v just for the ?? time 10.000 km on the meter.[:)]



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73super
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Postby 73super » 18 Jan 2008 18:59

Well what the heck was I reading then???? Hmmmm, there is another out about restoring your TR7 and I believe it's covered in there. Dang, I know I just read it recently.. like within the last two days. Had a checklist of things to do periodically.. Anyway, like I said.. all personal comfort level. 200K??? great if that works for you.


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Postby john 215 » 18 Jan 2008 19:26

Hi,
Mine snapped at 80k [:(] no warnings no noise till it happened [xx(] So in went a V8 [;)] ,personaly if in doubt change it, but as Beans says always go for decent make,on the post morten of my old engine could not find any manufactures marks on the links so poss P.O had a cheapo chinesse chain fitted. When i worked at BL dealership we always quoted for new chains ect if doing head gaskets and engine had a reasonable milage on it.
Cheers john.

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Postby Beans » 18 Jan 2008 23:06

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 73super</i>
Well what the heck was I reading then???? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dunno [;)]

Only book I use is the original British Leyland workshop manual from 1979 onwards, including all updates till 1982.
And of course common sense and a little bit of Wedge and Dolly experience

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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 18 Jan 2008 23:19

Thanks lads - pretty much devided opinions then! It's just I had nasty experience with 1850 SAAB many moons ago - when it dropped the chain one morning when my wife was starting the car. After huge battle (SAAB engine in wrong way round) we managed to get it back up and onto the top sprocket - can't for the life of me remember how I re-timed it (!) - and the engine ran fine! Sold it soon after. Just I realise if it drops at speed - lots of damage, and I have the new chain and guides in stock! It can wait till better weather.

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Rblackadar
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Postby Rblackadar » 19 Jan 2008 01:04

There you go! Better safe than sorry. Its not too tough to do.

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