Starter motor

[J.A.Holden@btinternet.com]

on 2/3 occasions, it starts fine. The rest of the time the starter motor turns very rapidly without engaging with the engine. After a couple of attempts it then behaves properly.
I am suspecting the solenoid and it's mechanism which pushes the motor shaft forward to engage with flywheel. Am i on the right track? Starter motor was renewed 3 years (3000 miles)ago - is it likely to be faulty or need lubrication or??

Ideas please

[Rblackadar]

Sounds like the solenoid. I know that a lot of the reman. ones come with cheapo solenoids from China....why waste your time with that crap! I found Lucas ones at ThePartsBin.com I would go with that one instead of the crap they throw on the remans. Do it yourself!

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Mine reman one went south, too, so I put the original one back in. No problems.

If I have to do it again, I will get a gear reduction started instead.

[mikehardwick]

My thoughts entirely, jclay. Over here they're the way to go - more turns whilst drawing less power, it's a no-brainer. Added bonus, they're much smaller, leaving a respectable gap from the right bank exhaust. I've already had a clutch line overheat and let go in heavy traffic, dumping the fluid onto the hot exhaust - REALLY impressive cloud of black smoke, luckily I was in 2nd and was able to thread my way through to the hard shoulder.

Mike

[Urchin]

The moment I bought a gear reduction starter from Woody Cooper at The Wedge Shop, my starter began working reliably. As a threat, I leave the new starter in the trunk, ready to install. The current one will probably go one forever.

Jeff

Jeffrey Aronson
P.O. Box 90
Vinalhaven, ME 04863
USA
'80 TR-7 Spider
'66 Land Rover Series II-A [2]
'66 Corvair Monza

[bmcecosse]

In this case it does sound like the pinion is not engaging with the ring gear - a good cleaning may help. However it may also be that the ring gear teeth are badly worn at one spot - next time it does this - turn the engine slightly by hand and then try again with the starter.
In other cases where the starter fails to operate - it may not be the starter that's at fault - the power has to go through the starter relay and if this has dirty contacts the feed may not be getting to the starter. Worth a try - it can be swapped over with one of the other identical relays for a trial.

[Rblackadar]

You can take the starter out and inspect it. The solenoid might be hanging up because of gunk or dirt...mine was. There you can check the teeth on the pinion and the ring gear. Worse comes to worst, you can take your existing ring gear and flip it over I think.

[FI Spyder]

When my starter wouldn't turn over my engine but a few times I got a gear reduction starter off eBay. They are Nippondenso starters with adapter ring for the TR7 done by Gustafson in the States. The solenoid is larger than the starter part. The only thing that goes wrong is the solenoid copper contacts eventually wear out but can easily be replaced for a few bucks and they are carried by any auto parts store. The only thing is I have to construct a heat shield as the old one doesn't fit and the starter still sits mighty close to the big Californian catalytic converter. Without it I fear it would roast it. I don't want to modify the exhaust until I have to replace it when it rusts out.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[J.A.Holden@btinternet.com]

Thanks for suggestions. Since it eventually does engage with the engine, without any effort from me, after 1/2/3/ attempts, i think it must be the solenoid rather than worn/missing teeth. i'll try removing it soon (which i gather is a pain of a job!)

[Rblackadar]

Not too bad, I had it out in 15 mins.

[lebochet9]

Not complicated, just the motor is heavy and awkward to get out. Don't forget to disconnect the battery leads first. Otherwise the risk of sparks as the starter lead touches something is very high.

I have also had problems with solenoids, where the pin inside wears down. But if this is the case, the solenoid will click, but not spin the starter.

As the solenoid core (The copper bit) moves back inside the solenoid body it pulls the pivot lever with in which moves the pinion fwd, the pinion should be well meshed with the ring gear before the core hits the switch in the back of the solenoid, making the motor turn.

In your case since the starter motor is actually spinning but not turning the engine, if you are sure the ring gear is OK, then maybe chcek the pivot pin is not worn, and the lever and solenoid are properly attached.

Hope this hepls

1980 DHC TR7-V8 (was an 8V, then a Sprint)
Back on the road after 3 years restoring...

[J.A.Holden@btinternet.com]

Thanks for advice, both. Did you find it necessary to remove exhaust system? Haynes manual says yes - buy i wondered if it was possible to avoid this!

[colonel bogey]

Didn't have to remove the exhaust system or manifold on mine,just be careful you don't bash your fingers as the unit is heavy,if i remember correctly ihad to rotate starter to clear maniflod.

Greg



'76 TR7 FHC Auto Java Green
"Colonel Bogey"

[colonel bogey]

Sorry for spelling.....must proof read before hitting button!!![:D][:D]


'76 TR7 FHC Auto Java Green
"Colonel Bogey"

[ngtf]

Not sure about the cast original manifold, (although Greg has already answered that) but the tubular manifold that I have does not require removal to get the starter out either. It is, unfortunately just a fiddly job!

Gary

Eeyore rides again !!

EOR14W - Persian Aqua 2L Dhc, Now rebuilt and looking lovely - Sprint engine being prepared!