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I am having a problem with the column mounted turn signal/hotn/dip switch and am hopping someone has found an alternative for this rather flimsy Lucas unit. It seems that I am never certain the headlights will stay on if I switch from low beams to high or visa versa. On more than one occasion I have been left with NO lights after making a transition and would like to find a way to be confident that I am not left in the dark and/or cause an accident. I have cleaned and aligned the points in the multi-functioning Lucas unit but still experience the problem. All other headlight equipment works perfectly (headlight motors and dash switch).

Any suggestions?

All the best,

Ray

Clean the contact on the headlight contact strips at the headlights.





Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

Thanks Jclay.

I appreciate that the points on the column switch must be clean and aligned. However, I have done this and, although working now, the flimsyness of the stalk leaves me without confidence it will continue to work without question.

I am hoping to find someone who has replaced the original stalk with a unit from another car. I realize the replacement may not have the horn button but I will deal with that at another time.

Again thanks for your response and all the best,

Ray

My car has a toggle switch under the stalk that the previous owner installed. I can't tell you how he wired it but with Jclay's wiring diagram maybe you can figure it out.


nick

Not on the stalks, but on the head light housings.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

Consider a re-wire so that the dip beam comes on ALL the time headlights are switched on - ie the wiring for dip doesn't go near the stalk, and then wire the stalk to simply switch on the main beam when you want it - thus BOTH main and dip will then be on - and a much better spread of light is obtained! Common mod to get better lighting without adding extra lights. Some say the bulbs burn out earlier - some say they actually last longer, but they are not expensive and the extra light is a real bonus. And in your case - you will have security that you will always have the dip beam and not be plunged into darkness!
The headlamp 'contact strips' - if these are the triple pole connectors at the back of the headlamp unit then yes worth cleaning - if they are the contacts on the raise/lower motors then that's all they do - raise and lower - they have no effect on the lights themselves.

Good thought. I will be investigating this approach and will let everyone know what I find out. I specifically like the idea that the low beams will be on without a dependency on the fragile dipswitch.

All the best,

Ray

Provided that is your problem is not within the headlamp switch - and it just shows up when you switch the current. These headlamp switches are notorious - may be worth chasing a new one just in case.
If doing the main beam mod - take that main beam feed from a source NOT through the headlamp switch, or you will overload the switch. A relay activated by dip beam and the stalk (so the mian beams could only be used with the dip beams and not on their own) would be ideal, with the power feed taken from the main supply bus through a fuse.

Hi bmcecosse,

My problem is definitly caused by the dipswitch points not making proper and secure contact and, therefore, not providing power to the lights.

In response to yur idea, my thought was to run a 10-gauge line directly from the alternator’s battery terminal (I had installed a 65 amp Delco 10SI when the Lucas failed) through a 20-amp fuse to a relay activated by the light switch to for the low beams. I would run an additional relay, powered through the first relay and activated by the dipswitch, for the high beams. Both the dipswitch and main switch would be handling far fewer amps than in the original configuration.

Based upon the dipswitch point contacts, I originally thought relays would have been needed to power the headlights (not just the lift motors). I surmise from our discussion and my review of the wiring schematics for my 79 DHC that power is fed through the dipswitch for the headlights. If I am correct then I totally understand your concerns and, based upon the additional amperage needed to activate both main and high beams simultaneously, I will also be increasing the gauge of the headlight ground wire as well.

Again, it’s nice to play thoughts off someone that is both interested and knowledgeable before heading into the abyss.

All the best,

Ray