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Any ideas. I can shift fine at startup and drive around but after a couple of minutes it seems that the clutch no longer works. My FASD is broke and I idle at 2500 but I don't see how that could be a problem owing to differing clutch behavior cold vs. hot.
Thanks,
-Shane-

-Shane-

Is the clutch pedal still firm? Is it just the clutch? When was the last time you completely flushed that hydraulic system?

Maybe heat is affecting some very old and very contaminated fluid? Is the Master Cylinder or Slave leaking?

The system has never been flushed to my knowledge. I was thinking maybe there is a rubber hose to the slave that is expanding just enough when warmed up? I'll give it a flush and see if that doesn't improve things.

-Shane-

Come to think of it the peddle isn't as firm as my dads TR6 and it seems like the grab point moves towards the floor as the engine warms. But when cold the grab point is in a normal position, couple inches above the floor. [?] hmmmmm

-Shane-

That's odd symptoms Shane, does sound like you are loosing pressure in the clutch hydraulics as you use it.

Check carefully for leaks - do you ever have to top up the master cylinder? Have a look under the dash where the master cylinder comes through the bulkhead to join the clutch pedal - any signs of fluid leaking at the back of the master?

Might be worth flushing through with fresh fluid & bleeding the system carefully. If that does not cure it then I would suspect a failing seal somewhere in the system.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

I know this is the TR7 forum but my TR8 presented the same symptoms when I first got it. A rebuild of the master & slave cured it.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Also check the flexible hose

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Is it the clutch mechanism that's tightening up - or the gearbox that's proving hard to change gears ?

Hey FF4312,
Can't help you on the shifting (although I have replaced my clutch hydraulics) but I migh tbe able to help you with the FASD.. Mine wasn't working either, but I called Woodie at the Wedge Shop and he told me how to fix mine.. Amazingly enough I was able to fix it - and I ain't no mechanic.. If I can do it - anyone can..

So, I made a small little course to help people understand and hopefully help fix their FASD's as well.. If yours was like mine, it just got gunked up over the years and the linkage might have gotten out of alignment.. Anyways, I've had maybe 10 people email me from all over the world to tell me they got their fixed.

Here's the course online - its Flash, so you might need the Flash player if it doesn't show up. Holler if you have any questions..
good luck -
Steve
http://www.xrocks.net/fasd.html

Son of a .... THATS gonna leave a mark!

The peddle seems to act the same more or less, I have no reference point to what it should be, and just say after 5 min. of running I can't get the shifter to get into gear. I even try reverse and all I get is the sound of grinding gears. 1-5 I can't move the lever far enough to hear grinding sounds. As far as the FASD I know it is just corrosion but it is from the fuel cutoff end and not the upper wax-bulb part. I bought the manual conversion kit But can't get it on due to the entire linkage being frozen.
If I can figure these two things out along with my battery leak I'll be less inclined to get a midget. I have an attachment to the car but it is really making me mad at this point. And if it doesn't start behavin' I might have to do the unthinkable. Its gonna be expensive enough restoring original paint and replacing the top than for me to be dealing with these other problems. College...[xx(]

P.S. At least I fought the water pump and won before prices went up. [:D]


-Shane-

I suggest that you take a close look at the Hydraulic line from Master to Slave, it is after all plastic. Ask someone to pump the clutch once the car is warm and run your hand down this pipe at the same time.

If this is OK then just bleed the sytem and see if this helps.

If bleeding does not help then replace those cylinders and I suspect all will be well.

You can get a braided steel replacement line quite easily and in the process of fitting it you will be bleeding the system anyway.

Jolyon

If you pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times - then try for a gear - does that work ?
Battery leak - obvious solution - and simply spray your linkages with some release oil every day for a week, and fit manual choke.
These are really v minor problems - and you will get just as many niggles with a Spridget, and much less performance!

Its not the linkages that are stuck its the internal linkage of the FASD , I.E. Air flap to rich fuel valve, that is stuck. I'll try the PB thing for awhile and see if I can free it. I can't fit a manual choke otherwise seeing how its still uses the FASD mechanism minus the wax bulb and water components to achieve choke. Hopefully I can find the time over winter break to fix the problems.
-Shane-

-Shane-

My interanl FASD linkage was stuck as well.. just opening it up and giving it a good enema from both the intake and other end and lubing up the linkage fixed it. I sprayed carb cleaner, I think, into the intake and lifted up and pushed down on the linkage inside the intake.. lotta gunk came out the bottom, that's for sure..

Also, sometimes the linkage gets out of whack and simply opening it up and putting it back together again correctly helps..

Son of a .... THATS gonna leave a mark!