tr7triumph.com

Dear All,

Approx 2 years ago I replaced the failed starter replay ( local mobile mechanic identified it when
helping neighbour with his classic). Any way 2 weeks ago took car out for run, 5 mins to petrol station
and then it would not start, simple bump start did the trick then.

However, cables to the starter motor seem fine, then removed the relay, tested across 85 & 86 and its clicking, so closing the
circuit, not sure how to test the other terminals. Could anyone shed any other light where the fault might be, I have been told
about wires to gearbox cause problems but confused on that one, car electrics seems to be a black art to me, at least tracing issues.

Hope you can help.

Many thanks

SJ

UPDATE - Just thought I would add, I've now cleaned the earth onto rear of engine, no change, plus
the relay clicked when off the car and tested, but cannot hear any click when connected in the car
with glove box open !

Had the problem for years. First changed the starter to Nippon Denso, didn't solve the problem. I sprayed the connector to the relay by the fuse box and that worked for a couple years with me spraying it with electronic contract cleaner every couple of months which became more frequent. Pulled that relay apart and ir looked brand new inside so that wasn't a problem. Then found that if I slid the 12V distribution clamp up (it was loose enough for motion on the thick red battery wire). Couldn't solder it so decided to pull the red wire out so I could clamp the distribution clamp in a vice so it would grip tightly. Doing this the battery post clamp fell off. Being lead, it mushed out so that even though it's clamp to wire was tight, it couldn't clamp the wire tight. Cut back the insulation, folded half the stands back (cut the rest off) so the wire was twice as big for the clamp to grasp it. Problem solved. No problem for over three years now. While going through the whole process each step helped a little for a little while the real problem was the battery clamp. If you have this type of battery clamp (not sure all do) make sure it can grasp the thick red wire tightly. The other take away is it can be any connection point in the 12V starter circuit (and the low amp control circuit that activates it).

5 years ago I had a cracked wire / loose connector on the starter motor's solenoid. A relatively easy fix when traced.

A couple of months ago, the wedge wouldn't start in the garage. The starter motor worked fine out of the car on jump leads. Working my way round with a multimeter, the connectivity stopped at the module controlled by the ignition switch.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-218959

One of the pressed metal lugs holding the casing together had fatigued and broken away loosening it. I opened it up a tiny bit and there were tiny springs and loose copper contacts all over the place. A bit of Lucas analogue finest. A late afternoon call to S and S and I received a replacement in the post the next morning. Another quick fix.

Did you remove the small connection onto the starter solenoid and look at the wire in the spade terminal. I had an intermittent starter problem some years ago, the relay would click in but sometimes the starter would not turn. I found that the copper wire connection inside the spade was green and corroded. Stripped the cable back and fitted a new spade and it has been fine since.

Just bin the bloody awful worn out battery terminal clamps a put some new ones on, you can get some real good ones these days.

thanks for the suggestions, already tried most, the fact that the relay does not click insitu is telling
and, to me a non electrician it says no power is getting to the relay.

Anyway, bottled it and a mobile auto electrician is coming on Wednesday.

Will be interesting to see what he finds and, if its quick then he can wire up the spot lights whilst hes's here.

SJ

Did you check that the starter relay was still OK? Some of the modern Chinese stuff does not last long. When I bought my car the relay was not working so I removed the cover and pushed the contacts together with my fingers until I got the replacement. (That was easier than using the PO's method of a screwdriver across the big and small starter terminals!).

Well the auto spark came as planned and found that it was an ignition related fault, with
a drop in volts between fuse box and the ignition switch. Quick check to try to find the fault, but
ended up running a new new lead across, total 45mins, all done . Delighted with that.

She rides again !

SJ

Joe, my 7 has an electrical system similar to the one you appear to be developing in yours.

It may not be quite as impressive as the original, & the weight of relays may be slowing the acceleration a little, but it does work better.

Hasbeen